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Old 12-29-2010, 2:54 PM   #41
miklaur miklaur is offline
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First off, this thread has helped immensely. Thank you!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Schwaggs View Post
Great idea puting this all in one place. My only bone of contention is the test kits you reccomend a newbie buy. I think they should be broken into mandatory and optional. I guess what people view as mandatory and optional could be debated but I will take a shot at breaking them down:

Mandatory Test Kits for a new tank and fish only system - ammonia, nitrite, nitrate
Mandaroty Test Kits for a reef tank - calcium, alkalinity
Optional test kits - phosphate, iodine, stontium, magnesium, copper
I have been agonizing over this for days now - especially considering that the general consensus is to use Salifert, which isn't cheap, so extra thanks for this.
You didn't mention pH - I'm assuming that one was a "given" like Salinity?
Actually you didn't mention Chlorine either. Thoughts?

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Old 12-29-2010, 3:08 PM   #42
brianjfinn brianjfinn is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by miklaur View Post
You didn't mention pH - I'm assuming that one was a "given" like Salinity?
Actually you didn't mention Chlorine either. Thoughts?
pH isn't necessarily mandatory in a new system, especially if you're keeping up with water changes and using a quality salt. However, I would have to recommend Salifert, as their kits seem to be much more reliable.

As far as chlorine goes, you should have absolutely none in your system and shouldn't have to test for it. If you're using tap water, you definitely need to use a quality dechlorinator and understand that tap water is full of nutrients, which will cause algae outbreaks, and other harmful additives that can stress your livestock. Most recommend spending the $100 on an RO unit, it's well worth it! If your system is small, you can get away with buying RO water by the gallon from the grocery store, but that gets tiring very quickly.

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Old 12-29-2010, 3:19 PM   #43
miklaur miklaur is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brianjfinn View Post
pH isn't necessarily mandatory in a new system, especially if you're keeping up with water changes and using a quality salt. However, I would have to recommend Salifert, as their kits seem to be much more reliable.

As far as chlorine goes, you should have absolutely none in your system and shouldn't have to test for it. If you're using tap water, you definitely need to use a quality dechlorinator and understand that tap water is full of nutrients, which will cause algae outbreaks, and other harmful additives that can stress your livestock. Most recommend spending the $100 on an RO unit, it's well worth it! If your system is small, you can get away with buying RO water by the gallon from the grocery store, but that gets tiring very quickly.
Definitely doing frequent water changes.

As for Salt, we're using Oceanic - it's been highly recommended by several people and the LFS - obviously open to suggestions, though.

Don't want to have to buy them twice, so Salifert it will be...

We're using Prime for our tap water treatment, generally pre-mixing in a bucket ahead of time with a pump for a day then adding the Oceanic salt and letting it mix for another few days.

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Old 12-29-2010, 3:51 PM   #44
LilRobb LilRobb is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by miklaur View Post
We're using Prime for our tap water treatment, generally pre-mixing in a bucket ahead of time with a pump for a day then adding the Oceanic salt and letting it mix for another few days.
Have you noticed you algae grow humongous yet!

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Old 12-29-2010, 4:43 PM   #45
miklaur miklaur is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LilRobb View Post
Have you noticed you algae grow humongous yet!
Well, considering that we just started on Sunday, the only algae we have is from other members rock, etc.
Suggestions are welcomed...

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Old 01-04-2011, 1:35 PM   #46
noodle  
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Originally Posted by miklaur View Post
Well, considering that we just started on Sunday, the only algae we have is from other members rock, etc.
Suggestions are welcomed...
this was the most difficult aspect for me, when starting out about a year ago. either don't use tap water, or get something that absorbs phosphates. the phosphates and such in tap water will cause algae to bloom. it'll settle down over time if you don't add in more tap water.

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Old 01-05-2011, 6:25 PM   #47
Ruadh Ruadh is offline
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Excellent information! I'm currently setting up my first SW tank, a RSM 250, and I'm beyond excited at the possiblities I have ahead of me. Good to know there's people that care enough about their hobby to share their information. I will definitely be visiting this post many times in the future.

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Old 01-07-2011, 8:16 PM   #48
miklaur miklaur is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by noodle View Post
this was the most difficult aspect for me, when starting out about a year ago. either don't use tap water, or get something that absorbs phosphates. the phosphates and such in tap water will cause algae to bloom. it'll settle down over time if you don't add in more tap water.
We've actually already switched to R/O. Thanks for the helpful comment.

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Old 01-08-2011, 9:59 AM   #49
OldandTired OldandTired is offline
 
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My first post.
I have been in and out of the hobby for 40 years. This thread is full of excellent information.
In the old days one had to sacrifice several fish (mostly damsels) to get the tank to cycle. I am not trying to be a tree hugger, but I hated to see the little buggers die. Now, enzymes, living bacteria, and proper systems can do that.

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Old 01-08-2011, 10:11 AM   #50
brianjfinn brianjfinn is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OldandTired View Post
My first post.
I have been in and out of the hobby for 40 years. This thread is full of excellent information.
In the old days one had to sacrifice several fish (mostly damsels) to get the tank to cycle. I am not trying to be a tree hugger, but I hated to see the little buggers die. Now, enzymes, living bacteria, and proper systems can do that.
Anyone here, with any experience, will completely agree with you. That doesn't make you a tree hugger, that makes you a good steward.

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Old 01-26-2011, 11:50 PM   #51
siavashv siavashv is offline
 
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this is amazing!! I am starting the hobby and have been doing some research to see what I want to do. let me tell you that your posts have been UNBELIEVABLE in guiding me. You are awesome. Keep doing the service that you do!

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Old 02-03-2011, 11:34 PM   #52
jcusmarine jcusmarine is offline
 
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Most welcome. Thanks.

Sent from my PC36100 using Tapatalk

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Old 03-25-2011, 4:23 PM   #53
tpate77 tpate77 is offline
 
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Live sand and live cured rock

I have had the live sand in the tank for one week. And live rock in the tank for 24 hours. How long does it need to set before I should see my ammonia start to rise. I check it before the live rock was installed an about a hour ago still reading between 0 to maybe .25 I was told also by my LPS to add sability to the tank by following the instuctions which I have. Sability for the past 6 days ever since the live sand was installed. I am in no hurry I just was wonder if it was going to spike or rise soon or will it take a week or two.

16 gallon system
20 pounds live sand
11 pounds live rock
150 penguin bio wheel
Top fin powerhead 30
Heater
What temp around 76-78

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Old 03-25-2011, 7:41 PM   #54
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i am new to this

i have had a problem with saltwater ich. I have lost 2 fish and the 1 of the remaining 3 don't look to good. i have a 55 gal tank with daul pequin biowheel filters and around 60 ponds of live rock. no corals yet so i am treating the whole tank for ich with api super ich cure. the tank has been up and running for around a year and this is the first problem i have had. Any help or advise would be apreciated. thanks

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Old 03-25-2011, 8:10 PM   #55
jcusmarine jcusmarine is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tpate77 View Post
I have had the live sand in the tank for one week. And live rock in the tank for 24 hours. How long does it need to set before I should see my ammonia start to rise. I check it before the live rock was installed an about a hour ago still reading between 0 to maybe .25 I was told also by my LPS to add sability to the tank by following the instuctions which I have. Sability for the past 6 days ever since the live sand was installed. I am in no hurry I just was wonder if it was going to spike or rise soon or will it take a week or two.

16 gallon system
20 pounds live sand
11 pounds live rock
150 penguin bio wheel
Top fin powerhead 30
Heater
What temp around 76-78
Give it another week. Test. Let us know your findings. Good start using live sand....

Quote:
Originally Posted by bcc65 View Post
i have had a problem with saltwater ich. I have lost 2 fish and the 1 of the remaining 3 don't look to good. i have a 55 gal tank with daul pequin biowheel filters and around 60 ponds of live rock. no corals yet so i am treating the whole tank for ich with api super ich cure. the tank has been up and running for around a year and this is the first problem i have had. Any help or advise would be apreciated. thanks
I am no Ich expert, but I believe once you have Ich, it remains in your tank. I would not get too excessive on Super Ich. Best advice I could give is actually keep your water params stable, and very good quality - and feed quality food soaked in Garlic Gaurd. I would recommend Rods Food....it has Selcon and a variety of great ingredients. Keeping your fish fed and the tank parameters stable helps with their immune system and overall health. Make sure your tank has plenty of water movement and oxygen. Maybe someone else can chime in with better advice, but just my .02

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Old 03-25-2011, 8:30 PM   #56
bcc65  
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thanks J C. i have a large dual wave maker powerhead in the tank and it really gets the water moving. I am feeding the fish ocean nutrition reef flakes and pellets on alternating days and a small amount of freeze dried brine shrimp. my amonia is at 0 nitrites .25 and nitrates are around 5.
ph is 8.4 the readings are a little high but not excessive.

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Old 03-26-2011, 8:36 PM   #57
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Thank you so much for the info...
I am taking the Bio balls out as I am restarting...
The links you provided are so helpful too...
rock on!

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Old 04-18-2011, 9:58 PM   #58
jcusmarine jcusmarine is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by project1004 View Post
Thank you so much for the info...
I am taking the Bio balls out as I am restarting...
The links you provided are so helpful too...
rock on!
Welcome! Thanks.

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Old 04-18-2011, 11:01 PM   #59
cr500_af cr500_af is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bcc65 View Post
thanks J C. i have a large dual wave maker powerhead in the tank and it really gets the water moving. I am feeding the fish ocean nutrition reef flakes and pellets on alternating days and a small amount of freeze dried brine shrimp. my amonia is at 0 nitrites .25 and nitrates are around 5.
ph is 8.4 the readings are a little high but not excessive.
Stay on top of your water changes... your cycle has not completed. You should have a zero reading on nitrite. Normally you wouldn't have to do a water change until the completion of the cycle, but nitrite is toxic and you need to keep it down as much as possible, assuming relocating the remaining fish until the tank is ready is impossible.

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Old 04-19-2011, 9:23 AM   #60
dasugaman dasugaman is offline
 
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Awesome article and alot of good knowledge in it. I am going looking to start my first reef tank with a 65 gallon tank, Is it mandatory to have a sump for a reef tank or will I be ok with a canister filter?

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