Just seeing this, sorry for the late reply. The check valve should go close to the sump. I'd be temped to put a true union ball valve above it. It will make maintenance of the check much easier.
Dan's 210 Build
- Thread starter saltwaterwannabe
- Start date
Thanks! I currently have it setup just above the waterline of my sump with a union on each side. The location is good other than it is behind the sump, mail king the 36 inch reach a struggle to get to. New location will be easier to get to.
I picked up a Jebao 20000 pump which should give enough turnover to my sump and is adjustable as well. Going the route of using my Vectra M1 as a recirculating pump in the DT. Between the two I should have plenty of flow using less energy than my current setup that uses a Barracuuda pump in the basement. The new setup will accommodate the Barracuuda or Hammerhead if needed.
This will leave me with one overflow instead of two. The Reef Synergy overflow is rated from 400 to 2500gph each. I currently have the Barracuuda running unthrottled, which should be around 2800 gph at 12 ft of head, so I am likely exceeding the rated flow for the overflow a little atm without issue. For reference, at one time I was running the Hammerhead unthrottled with two of these overflows. The only reason I changed the impeller was to reduce energy use. That would have been around 4,500 gph at 12 ft through two overflows.
The Jebao is rated around 3500 gph max at 12 ft of head, so I will dial it back considerably. I have not researched the amount it can be dialed down, but an older and smaller one I had would go as little as 35% if I remember right. I am sure at 12 ft of head the flow reduction is not a direct percentage matching the pump setting, but I am guessing it to be close enough to gauge for my needs. I am targeting around 1150 gph through my sump, the capacity of one of my sea swirls. If I cannot dial it back enough, I will add a couple of small lock line jets pointing down the back of the tank behind the rock to bleed off some of the flow.
Nothing really new here, just documenting my rebuild. If anyone sees major flaws in my plans, please speak up, all input is appreciated!
This will leave me with one overflow instead of two. The Reef Synergy overflow is rated from 400 to 2500gph each. I currently have the Barracuuda running unthrottled, which should be around 2800 gph at 12 ft of head, so I am likely exceeding the rated flow for the overflow a little atm without issue. For reference, at one time I was running the Hammerhead unthrottled with two of these overflows. The only reason I changed the impeller was to reduce energy use. That would have been around 4,500 gph at 12 ft through two overflows.
The Jebao is rated around 3500 gph max at 12 ft of head, so I will dial it back considerably. I have not researched the amount it can be dialed down, but an older and smaller one I had would go as little as 35% if I remember right. I am sure at 12 ft of head the flow reduction is not a direct percentage matching the pump setting, but I am guessing it to be close enough to gauge for my needs. I am targeting around 1150 gph through my sump, the capacity of one of my sea swirls. If I cannot dial it back enough, I will add a couple of small lock line jets pointing down the back of the tank behind the rock to bleed off some of the flow.
Nothing really new here, just documenting my rebuild. If anyone sees major flaws in my plans, please speak up, all input is appreciated!
Plumbing pretty much complete, I just have to tie in to the current plumbing from the first floor when I move the sump.
The plan is to use my 240 as a peninsula at the left tape box with a small office where my old sump area was located. Sump goes at the right partial tape box.
I am thinking of dressing up and reusing my Apex box instead of rebuilding it. The Apex goes on the wall between the new panel behind the sump and the peninsula. I may just paint and add a box for my Dos units. Wires would go out the side with plenty of space to hide them. I definitely want to do a much better job of wire management with the new setup.
The plan is to use my 240 as a peninsula at the left tape box with a small office where my old sump area was located. Sump goes at the right partial tape box.
I am thinking of dressing up and reusing my Apex box instead of rebuilding it. The Apex goes on the wall between the new panel behind the sump and the peninsula. I may just paint and add a box for my Dos units. Wires would go out the side with plenty of space to hide them. I definitely want to do a much better job of wire management with the new setup.
Looks like I am chasing leaks now.
When I moved my sump today I found a good size crack around one of the bulkheads in the bottom that was the discharge to the pump. I tried cleaning, drying, and sealing it but it drips pretty fast. Guess I am going to Home Depot tomorrow for some acrylic that I can reline the bottom around the bulkhead - then redrill. Not too much work, but work that was not planned.
My guess is this crack was the culprit that caused water to wick up the drywall, not me being sloppy with the hose downs of the sump area. The sump was actually salt stuck to the stand, I had to gently pry it loose.
I cobbled a temporary sump out of an empty 120 long I have, it actually works rather well for temporary.
I dropped the new Jebao pump in the 120 tank for the return pump - very easy since it was submersible. Gotta say, I wish I had swapped pumps a long time ago. This is MUCH quieter than my old pump. I do not have my recirculating pump setup on the DT yet, but that will be a piece of cake, hopefully I can wrap it up tomorrow as well.
Since I built the new sump bench long enough to add my frag tank, it makes me wonder if I should just pickup a 180 or another 6 foot tank to use as a sump with a frag area. It would end up being a cleaner install, but I am not sure if I want my frag tank always tied to my DT - I like the ability to separate it when I get new corals. Decisions decisions....lol
When I moved my sump today I found a good size crack around one of the bulkheads in the bottom that was the discharge to the pump. I tried cleaning, drying, and sealing it but it drips pretty fast. Guess I am going to Home Depot tomorrow for some acrylic that I can reline the bottom around the bulkhead - then redrill. Not too much work, but work that was not planned.
My guess is this crack was the culprit that caused water to wick up the drywall, not me being sloppy with the hose downs of the sump area. The sump was actually salt stuck to the stand, I had to gently pry it loose.
I cobbled a temporary sump out of an empty 120 long I have, it actually works rather well for temporary.
I dropped the new Jebao pump in the 120 tank for the return pump - very easy since it was submersible. Gotta say, I wish I had swapped pumps a long time ago. This is MUCH quieter than my old pump. I do not have my recirculating pump setup on the DT yet, but that will be a piece of cake, hopefully I can wrap it up tomorrow as well.
Since I built the new sump bench long enough to add my frag tank, it makes me wonder if I should just pickup a 180 or another 6 foot tank to use as a sump with a frag area. It would end up being a cleaner install, but I am not sure if I want my frag tank always tied to my DT - I like the ability to separate it when I get new corals. Decisions decisions....lol
all those cables in that mess would drive me crazy haha
tank looks good though!
Hey Dan, be sure any piping connected to bulkheads is fully supported. That could be a possible reason the acrylic cracked.
I hope your wife is doing better.