0TDS water
- Thread starter drirod
- Start date
This Hanna blog raises a good point, based on TDS Meters commonly being accurate +/- 2% (or 20 ppm). Take a look at your meter accuracy & see for yourself.
Just to be sure of the purity, I would use the DI stage(s). It won’t hurt & if the water is really zero, they should last forever
Just to be sure of the purity, I would use the DI stage(s). It won’t hurt & if the water is really zero, they should last forever
Weiterleitungshinweis
www.google.com
I agree with @ichthyoid TDS meters are not 100% accurate, Running the DI is just peace of mind that your are getting 0TDS
This Hanna blog raises a good point, based on TDS Meters commonly being accurate +/- 2% (or 20 ppm). Take a look at your meter accuracy & see for yourself.
Just to be sure of the purity, I would use the DI stage(s). It won’t hurt & if the water is really zero, they should last forever
Weiterleitungshinweis
www.google.com
Thanks!!
My tap water is only 34 TDS. I have a handheld meter and one connected to the system, but are measuring 0. I’m running the DI resin anyway. I was just curious. Thanks for the input.
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Fwiw,
Mixed bed deionization is more effective than separate anion & cation columns.
There are situations where separate beds/filters are preferable, but that generally won‘t apply to smller scale units.
www.wateronline.com
Mixed bed deionization is more effective than separate anion & cation columns.
There are situations where separate beds/filters are preferable, but that generally won‘t apply to smller scale units.
Deionization
Deionization is an ion-exchange process in which water flows through resin beds
When you start up the RODI unit there will be an initial higher TDS blast that comes out of the membrane(s). It lasts for a few minutes and starts dropping pretty quick, the DI will catch that blast or you could put in a valve to bypass that water to waste for a few minutes before switching it back to the DI. You also won't know if there's an occasional issue with your water and the DI is there for that too.
I have yet to see what Gainsville's water is like but in Gwinnett there was high silicates. Those don't register well with TDS meters due to the low ion charge. I'd think it'd be the same up here because it's all coming from the same source. I ran a dual membrane RO and had it setup so the source line was before the house pressure regulator, 98~102psi and 75 to 80psi after the 1st 3 stages. With 35~50 TDS from the county and in 10 minutes I'd usually be at zero to 2 TDS after the membranes. The DI was single stage Anion in the 1st chamber and mixed bed in the second. The Anion DI is what collects the silicates.
I have yet to see what Gainsville's water is like but in Gwinnett there was high silicates. Those don't register well with TDS meters due to the low ion charge. I'd think it'd be the same up here because it's all coming from the same source. I ran a dual membrane RO and had it setup so the source line was before the house pressure regulator, 98~102psi and 75 to 80psi after the 1st 3 stages. With 35~50 TDS from the county and in 10 minutes I'd usually be at zero to 2 TDS after the membranes. The DI was single stage Anion in the 1st chamber and mixed bed in the second. The Anion DI is what collects the silicates.
My TDS registers at 0-2ppm, but I'm almost certain silicates are getting through my RO (no DI until that new BRS unit gets here!) I get small diatom blooms after every water change.
I'm guessing I simply don't add enough silicates from my ATO at one time to notice.
I'm guessing I simply don't add enough silicates from my ATO at one time to notice.
I didn't realize my finished water had high silicates until I sent an ATI ICP test out on it. The TDS meter showed Zero after the DI and so did the handheld meter I have. The DI resin hadn't changed color much in the 1st chamber and not at all in the 2nd. Getting that fixed helped explain some of the issues I was having at the time.
