Ok.... so I am a bit along in the process, but stay tuned for some pics, write ups, concerns and maybe ya'll can help me get this back in gear! :O)
1mbrews8 's 180G Display Tank (re - do!)
- Thread starter 1mbrews8
- Start date
I used to have quite the operation lol! One of my old favs was Cornbread Flaming Bugatti
Then business soared, real estate rentals bought, kids, etc and all the excuses came up.
So where are we now??
Sal was at 15ppt
cal was high
mag was high
and alk was like 5.xxx
Everything died... no water changes (only top off if lucky) for MONTHS..
0 coral as of now...
(2 fish) Purple Tang and Black Ice or something like that still alive!
So I started seeing what I could do to bring back online.
There was not a ton of algae... but I only thought that since I couldn't see through the layer of it/coraline/scum covering the glass lol!
I started by taking the calcium reactor offline, putting a new pump to replace the leaking hammerhead, cleaned the glass and about 1/4 of the rocks in the fuge.
Swapped out bulbs/LED for working ones, blew off rocks a bit, took 2nd skimmer offline, and cleaned some equip. Took filter socks out (yuck!)
Bought some new power heads since most of mine were bad.
Thought I was doing good... THEN:
This is what the tank looked like a few days after...
Covered in it! I guess that is good though? (re cycle maybe?) This is actually after I put more power heads in and got vortechs back on line so stringy from the flow?
Got apex lite back on line since my classic brain was shot so I can monitor and see trends.
Did some water changes and testing like a mad man (ordered un expired kits lol, but better than nothing)
Don't have an ammonia test or nitrite, so unsure if cycle took place, but on the first test for nitrate, it was 100+
(
Today was at 20-50
Also today, cyano is less even though I have been moving the sandbed around and "vacuuming" during WCs
Fixing to do another WC, but IO salt is supposedly at super low alk, so not sure if it's because I only have salt at 30ppt to balance out the 36ppt in tank or...? Happen to have another Hanna checker, so even though never had problems with #1, will check again...
Stay tuned!
Then business soared, real estate rentals bought, kids, etc and all the excuses came up.
So where are we now??
Sal was at 15ppt
cal was high
mag was high
and alk was like 5.xxx
Everything died... no water changes (only top off if lucky) for MONTHS..
0 coral as of now...
(2 fish) Purple Tang and Black Ice or something like that still alive!
So I started seeing what I could do to bring back online.
There was not a ton of algae... but I only thought that since I couldn't see through the layer of it/coraline/scum covering the glass lol!
I started by taking the calcium reactor offline, putting a new pump to replace the leaking hammerhead, cleaned the glass and about 1/4 of the rocks in the fuge.
Swapped out bulbs/LED for working ones, blew off rocks a bit, took 2nd skimmer offline, and cleaned some equip. Took filter socks out (yuck!)
Bought some new power heads since most of mine were bad.
Thought I was doing good... THEN:
This is what the tank looked like a few days after...
Covered in it! I guess that is good though? (re cycle maybe?) This is actually after I put more power heads in and got vortechs back on line so stringy from the flow?
Got apex lite back on line since my classic brain was shot so I can monitor and see trends.
Did some water changes and testing like a mad man (ordered un expired kits lol, but better than nothing)
Don't have an ammonia test or nitrite, so unsure if cycle took place, but on the first test for nitrate, it was 100+
(Today was at 20-50
Also today, cyano is less even though I have been moving the sandbed around and "vacuuming" during WCs
Fixing to do another WC, but IO salt is supposedly at super low alk, so not sure if it's because I only have salt at 30ppt to balance out the 36ppt in tank or...? Happen to have another Hanna checker, so even though never had problems with #1, will check again...
Stay tuned!
Picture of The other day’s nitrate test. Maybe guessing around 70?
Quick picture of a section of the display tank today, so is a bit better.
Had a reading of like .5 phosphates in the salt mixing station water so I think it could be my RODI water?
Still mixing up the WC salt and just put extra Alk in to get it up
Thinking about ordering a bunch of pods to hopefully combat some of the algae in there?
Quick picture of a section of the display tank today, so is a bit better.
Had a reading of like .5 phosphates in the salt mixing station water so I think it could be my RODI water?
Still mixing up the WC salt and just put extra Alk in to get it up
Thinking about ordering a bunch of pods to hopefully combat some of the algae in there?
How old is your RO membrane? Might be time to change it out
prob so... I have always had crappy luck with rodi... either pressure is too much, or not enough.. silly tds thing never really worked on either of mine... either float valve works to stop it or it doesn't lol... the resin seemed to last quite long, but the first 2 filters especially, were always clogged/nasty pretty quick.
Honestly Id start with new filters and membrane. Having a pressure gauge in line to the membrane is a good way to tell when the pre filters are getting clogged. I have a dual TDS meter from brs and up until it got smashed it worked well.
I do have a pressure gauge on it... but seems to clog extra quick. I think when I first put filters in, it goes to almost 70psi? Then drops down usually to around 20psi I think...
I'll order some filters today!
Are you rinsing your carbon filter before installing it? I run the following before the ro membrane
- Stage One - Purtrex 5 Micron Sediment Filter
- Stage Two - BRS Chlorine & VOC 5 Micron Carbon Block Filter
- Last Stage - BRS Universal 1 Micron Carbon Block Filter
I don’t do that. I thought since my water seems to be pretty dirty already that would just add to the negatives
Here is a picture of the dirty set up with the hose attachment turned on aka flowing..
This is where it is leaking out from my auto top off container into the sump below so I cannot leave it on.
Here is a picture of the dirty set up with the hose attachment turned on aka flowing..
This is where it is leaking out from my auto top off container into the sump below so I cannot leave it on.
I would rinse the carbon filters out before installing them. Not sure on the float valve not working properly as i don't use one. Are you on a well or city water? Here in lawrenceville the water is actually pretty clean out of the tap
the one float valve is right below the suction cup in the 2nd pic
i'll try the rinse and i am on city water but in the boonies near Macon lol
i'll try the rinse and i am on city water but in the boonies near Macon lol
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