2 Duncan Colonies Melted Back-to-Back

[franciscosalazar]

I've purchased 2 colonies in the past week and both have melted within 2 days of placement in my tank. :shout:

The first colony I placed directly into the tank without water acclimation and it immediately started melting until it was completely dead by the next morning.

The second colony I drip acclimated for nearly 24 hours using one of these;

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It melted away by the next morning after being placed into the tank.

I did not dip either colony as I believe the LFS I purchased from has exceptional water quality.

I am not running a UV on my 29 Biocube but feel that may be the only explanation for what appears to be infections taking down these two colonies.

Anyone using a UV with proven success on a 29 Biocube?

FYI:
Magnesium 1500
Calcium 550
DkH 10
Nitrates 10
Temp 80
Salinity 1.026
Phosphates 0
Iodide .06

 

[elfloyd]

I don't think it's a UV problem. Do you know your ammonia, nitrite, and pH readings? Suggest you take a water sample to your LFS so you can compare readings.

Your Nitrate reading of 10 is too high... Should be < 0.2.

Is the device you pictured for acclimation? Haven't used one in years but it looks like something to capture fry as they are born.

Were the Duncans kept in their LFS water, then you dripped tank water into the LFS water... Slowly replacing LFS water with tank water?

 

[franciscosalazar]

elFloyd;922586 wrote: I don't think it's a UV problem. Do you know your ammonia, nitrite, and pH readings? Suggest you take a water sample to your LFS so you can compare readings.

Your Nitrate reading of 10 is too high... Should be < 0.2.

Is the device you pictured for acclimation? Haven't used one in years but it looks like something to capture fry as they are born.

Were the Duncans kept in their LFS water, then you dripped tank water into the LFS water... Slowly replacing LFS water with tank water?

I'll take some water to the LFS I purchased from.

Ammonia 0
pH is 7.9

I use the breeder box to drip from my tank into LFS water at 1 drop per second which then overflows into my tank.

 

[tbub1221]

Do you use an air pump or pwr head on the box or siphon ?I ask because I have one of those boxes I use as a hospital and isolation occasionally but never used it to drip acclimate.
Sorry the palys aren't cooperateing for you , are they going in to your preexisting system or a new system ?

 

[franciscosalazar]

Tbub1221;922596 wrote: Do you use an air pump or pwr head on the box or siphon ?I ask because I have one of those boxes I use as a hospital and isolation occasionally but never used it to drip acclimate.
Sorry the palys aren't cooperateing for you , are they going in to your preexisting system or a new system ?

The breeder box is driven with an air pump and can be dialed to any desired drip rate using an airflow restrictor.
The 2 colonies went into a 1yr old system with thriving Duncan colonies.

 

[tbub1221]

I'm not sure why I wrote Paly's , I believe I was thinking iv never seen anything melt but some Paly's.
I only ever ran my breeder box with a small power head , I'm going to try it our with the air line.

 

[indecloudzua]

i wouldnt let any of the LFS water drip into my system. i just use the drip system that BRS sells, airline with a valve in it. works like a charm.

Edit: i wouldnt let any of the LFS water drip into my system. i just use the drip system that BRS sells, airline with a valve in it. works like a charm.

 

[elfloyd]

franciscosalazar;922592 wrote: I use the breeder box to drip from my tank into LFS water at 1 drop per second which then overflows into my tank.

Never let water from the LFS (or from anywhere) get into your tank. Not 100% possible... but minimize as much as possible. This mitigates possibility of unwanted disease and parasites getting into your tank.

 

[franciscosalazar]

The LFS I purchase from probably has better quality water than most hobbyist. I'm not worried about his water, we are discussing my water. Please stay on topic.

Edit: The LFS I purchase from probably has better quality water than most hobbyist. I'm not worried about his water, we are discussing my water. Please stay on topic.

 

[indecloudzua]

He also gets in inventory from outside sources a lot. Contamination happens. Your water can test perfect and still contain harmful bacteria, viruses, pests, and their eggs. Better safe than sorry.

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

 

[elfloyd]

franciscosalazar;922658 wrote: The LFS I purchase from probably has better quality water than most hobbyist. I'm not worried about his water, we are discussing my water. Please stay on topic.

Edit: The LFS I purchase from probably has better quality water than most hobbyist. I'm not worried about his water, we are discussing my water. <span style="color: Purple">Please stay on topic.</span>

Francis... only trying to help... I can put my time in elsewhere.

 

[franciscosalazar]

indecloudzua;922659 wrote: He also gets in inventory from outside sources a lot. Contamination happens. <span style="color: red">Your</span> water can test perfect and still contain harmful bacteria, viruses, pests, and their eggs. Better safe than sorry.

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

The colonies both were healthy with polyps at full extension while at the LFS. I am not blaming the LFS whatsoever for my colonies melting.

Please discuss successful methods of <span style="color: black">treating</span> harmful bacteria and viruses in a 29 Biocube.

Edit:

elFloyd;922661 wrote: Francis... only trying to help... I can put my time in elsewhere.

I wasn't singling you out, I was trying to prevent further discussion on the topic of introducing foreign water to my tank.

 

[elfloyd]

1) You are making an assumption the problem was caused by harmful bacteria.
2) Your acclimation process is flawed.
3) You water parameters are suspect.

Since you are very focused on what you think the problem is and refuse advice. I'll not respond to other posts. Also, my experience is only with larger tanks, so perhaps the only people you will listen to are people with a 29 Biocube running UV.

Edit: Read...

 

[franciscosalazar]

elFloyd;922670 wrote: 1) You are making an assumption the problem was caused by harmful bacteria.
2) Your acclimation process is flawed.
3) You water parameters are suspect.

Since you are very focused on what you think the problem is and refuse advice. I'll not respond to other posts. Also, my experience is only with larger tanks, so perhaps the only people you will listen to are people with a 29 Biocube running UV.

Edit: Read...

http://www.atlantareefclub.org/forums/showthread.php?t=36805&highlight=properly+sizing">http://www.atlantareefclub.org/forums/showthread.php?t=36805&highlight=properly+sizing</a>[/QUOTE]

Thanks for the link.

If anyone is running a 29 biocube with nitrates below 10 please help me adopt your method of accomplishing that.

 

[indecloudzua]

Are you running the stock filter system or have you done any of the mods?have a link to your build perhaps so i can better see what you have running in the bc29?

Edit: Are you running the stock filter system or have you done any of the mods?have a link to your build perhaps so i can better see what you have running in the bc29?

 

[franciscosalazar]

indecloudzua;922692 wrote: Are you running the stock filter system or have you done any of the mods?have a link to your build perhaps so i can better see what you have running in the bc29?

Edit: Are you running the stock filter system or have you done any of the mods?have a link to your build perhaps so i can better see what you have running in the bc29?

SlimSkim Nano with Reef Biofuel daily
Two Little Fishes Phosban 150 with GFO and GAC replaced every 2 weeks
Marineland C160 full of Matrix cleaned weekly
30lbs live rock, bare bottom, 1 pair of juvenile black snowflakes, CUC

 

[indecloudzua]

are you using a hydrometer or refractometer?

 

[tbub1221]

I'm running a bc29 with nitrates under 5 and p04 0.03.
In addition to weekly wc of 4 gallons I have a tunze 9002 and I do a light carbon dose daily with vodka and vinegar .
I had mine hover around 10 for the longest but I have heavy fish stock for a low nutrient system so the carbon doseing has been very successful.
I used a carbon product mast by IO but it was expensive compared to vodka and it worked great but caused cyano bloom.

 

[franciscosalazar]

Tbub1221;922701 wrote: I'm running a bc29 with nitrates under 5 and p04 0.03.
In addition to weekly wc of 4 gallons I have a tunze 9002 and I do a light carbon dose daily with vodka and vinegar .
I had mine hover around 10 for the longest but I have heavy fish stock for a low nutrient system so the carbon doseing has been very successful.
I used a carbon product mast by IO but it was expensive compared to vodka and it worked great but caused cyano bloom.

Thanks for your input.

My Nitrates stayed at 20 when I had a substrate which I removed on Black Friday when I added the Slim Skim and started carbon sourcing.
I'll PM you if the biofuel doesn't bring it down to 5 to get your vodka solution recipe.

No one runs a UV on their nano?

 

[heathlindner25]

elFloyd;922586 wrote: I don't think it's a UV problem. Do you know your ammonia, nitrite, and pH readings? Suggest you take a water sample to your LFS so you can compare readings.

Your Nitrate reading of 10 is too high... Should be &lt; 0.2.

Is the device you pictured for acclimation? Haven't used one in years but it looks like something to capture fry as they are born.

Were the Duncans kept in their LFS water, then you dripped tank water into the LFS water... Slowly replacing LFS water with tank water?

Nitrate is best around 2.5 ppm