Algae

redstang

Active Member
Market
Messages
1,254
Reaction score
0
Biocube 29gal.
Aquaticlife 115 skimmer
Purigen
Chemipure
MP10
LED's - 12RB, 8CW. Cree brand.
RODI

2 ocellaris clowns
1 Yellow Watchman Goby
1 Tailspot Blenny
1 Six-line Wrasse

So, is some hair algae normal? I've only seen small amounts and I've never seen it, or let it, grow even an 1/8 of an inch long. My tank is 7 months old so still a relative baby. The algae isn't bad IMO. Barely noticeable most of the time. But I keep reading of algae free tanks. So that's what I will strive for.

I had been keeping salinity at 1.023 or so but after reading more I've discovered that I should be keeping it it at 1.025 or 1.026 so I'll slowly bump it up. Nitrates read 5-10ppm with API and 0 with an IO kit. Phosphates read 0 with a Seachem kit. Don't have a Mag or Calc kit but know I need to get them. Worth taking a sample by Pure Reef tomorrow on my lunch break to have them test it? Will the sample still be good after 8 hours or so in the bottle? PH has been rock steady at 8 since day 1.

I have a sparse CUC. 5 hermits that have been with me from July, 1 turbo that I've had since September, 2 Nerite's I've had since July, 1 Nassarius(That I've seen anyway) that I've had since October. Oh, and a cleaner shrimp.

I'm looking for feedback as to whether some algae is normal and if it's not any further steps I can take to keep it under control. I'm about 24 hours away from trying vodka dosing, the tank that is. I'm picking up some more CUC tomorrow. I'm thinking a fighting conch, another nerite or three, and a another small nassarius. I'm running phosphate tests on some dry rock that didn't make it in just to see if it's leaching by chance. I WELCOME constructive criticism and opinions.

Since my wife has given consent to acquiring pieces for a larger build starting this summer I'd like to get as close as I can to perfect in what I hear is a more challenging nano environment.

Sorry for the long winded post!

Thanks all!
 
Well, some is "normal" in the sense that most everybody gets it at some time or another. You might think about a few more turbos, as they usually help mow it down.
BUT, the ONLY long-term solution is to starve it out. GHA needs light (no choice but to give it that) and food (which is chiefly the waste products in our water, phosphate being a big one).

To starve it out, concentrate on your water parameters. If you aren't using RO/DI water, chances are you are introducing phosphates yourself. Same goes with many foods. At a minimum, I'd recommend thawing your frozen food, straining the food out of the water with a brine shrimp net and then rinsing the food in RO water.

Up your water changes (small ones more frequently are better than big ones less often), and if you haven't already, consider GFO with carbon after.

The livestock (turbos, and I'd say a tang if you only had the room) will help in knocking it back, but it will ALWAYS come back if it has enough to feed on.
 
cr500_af;726550 wrote: Well, some is "normal" in the sense that most everybody gets it at some time or another. You might think about a few more turbos, as they usually help mow it down.
BUT, the ONLY long-term solution is to starve it out. GHA needs light (no choice but to give it that) and food (which is chiefly the waste products in our water, phosphate being a big one).

To starve it out, concentrate on your water parameters. If you aren't using RO/DI water, chances are you are introducing phosphates yourself. Same goes with many foods. At a minimum, I'd recommend thawing your frozen food, straining the food out of the water with a brine shrimp net and then rinsing the food in RO water.

Up your water changes (small ones more frequently are better than big ones less often), and if you haven't already, consider GFO with carbon after.

The livestock (turbos, and I'd say a tang if you only had the room) will help in knocking it back, but it will ALWAYS come back if it has enough to feed on.


:thumbs:
 
cr500_af;726550 wrote: Well, some is "normal" in the sense that most everybody gets it at some time or another. You might think about a few more turbos, as they usually help mow it down.
BUT, the ONLY long-term solution is to starve it out. GHA needs light (no choice but to give it that) and food (which is chiefly the waste products in our water, phosphate being a big one).

To starve it out, concentrate on your water parameters. If you aren't using RO/DI water, chances are you are introducing phosphates yourself. Same goes with many foods. At a minimum, I'd recommend thawing your frozen food, straining the food out of the water with a brine shrimp net and then rinsing the food in RO water.

Up your water changes (small ones more frequently are better than big ones less often), and if you haven't already, consider GFO with carbon after.

The livestock (turbos, and I'd say a tang if you only had the room) will help in knocking it back, but it will ALWAYS come back if it has enough to feed on.

Yeah, using RODI and the water has tested for zero phosphates. I do rinse the frozen that I feed them but I haven;t dipped that in RODI before feeding so I'll start that. I'm hesitant to get more than one turbo in a 29gal as I'm not sure that it could sustain two long term but I'll give it a try. I had two to start with but they only lasted a couple of months. They were big though ones though.

Thoughts on using a small reactor that would fit in the back chamber of the BC vs a fuge back there with some cheato?
 
I had a big HA problem for awhile. I changed my T-5s out (6 of them) and backed my lights down from 10 hrs to 8 hrs. Cleared up almost over night. I have 4 emeralds 3 turbos hermits and 4 turbans. They could not keep up with the HA in my 75g.

Edit: Oh a Sea Hare helped alot also. But make sure to either sell him or get supplemental food after all that HA is gone otherwise its toes up for him pretty quick.
 
My emerald and turbo are clearing it out fairly well. It never got long. From what I've been reading I may be way understaffed on my CUC.
 
Back
Top