An old-new aquapod 24gallon's story

skymastre

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The following is the story of a pod, for those brave enough to hear it. I did a lot of things wrong in the beginning, and am still doing things wrong, but I’ve learned a lot. I suppose that is better than doing wrong and learning nothing from it.

Quick facts:
Tank established in mid September, aquapod 24g

X2 33w. PC, x2 actinics

Ammonia: 0
Nitrite: 0
Nitrate: 20-40
Alk: 9dkh (measured a while ago)

Maintenance:
Weekly water changes of 10% (2.5g)
X1/mo 25% water change
No dosing or supplemental

Additional Hardware
Reef Keeper Light (still in the package, needs to be set up)
100W. stealth heater
Swapped stock pump for 900 maxi
X2 koralia nanos (424g, 220g) on intermittently
Added LED strips
4 stage ROD, TDS meter,
Refractometer (that always seems to need recalibrating)

Livestock:
Clownfish

Frogspawn
Candycane (trumpet coral? Not sure exactly)
Neon green trumpet coral
Zoanthus
Palythoa
Ricordea
True blue shrooms
A few random frags someone gave me (on plugs)


History

Tank was purchased used off of craigslist. At the time, I didn’t know such great deals existed on Atlanta Reef!

I had a general idea of what to look for as I’d read for three or four months prior to its purchase. I knew I wasn’t going to keep SPS, and wanted only a few ‘challenging’ corals like a frogspawn. I only wanted a few fish, and didn’t want to do 20 gallon water changes every other week or so. A nano seemed perfect (by the way, as of now I still don’t regret the decision!).

Since I was/am in Macon and attending medical school, I left it for a friend to pick up the Pod. I bought 50 lbs of live rock and 20lbs of live sand from a local in Macon and set the whole thing up.

Immediately I ran into problems. The splash shield on the tank came melted, apparently a problem with the old pods. Also the weirs were missing. I opened the hood one day to hear a snap, and the whole structure broke off. It took me a long time to get the hood realigned and fixed with epoxide-JB weld was the only thing I could get to bond and even then it wasn’t pretty. One of the moonlights was dysfunctional, so I ran two strips of LEDs I picked up from an Autozone. This has seemed to be OK so far.

I was using coralife digital timers to cycle my lighting. Big mistake. If you don’t all ready know it, these things are junk. Based off a bad GE patent (you can pick the parent version up at home depot and it is just as bad). Also, the heat was a problem until October rolled around. I am sure it will be an issue again. It seemed that in terms of wattage, a combination of hydor nanos and the smaller maxijet was the way to go. I also built an extra fan into the system.

My ammonia and nitrites came down in three weeks (I let it go five weeks, I believe to be safe); I think my tank cycled quickly because I got live rock right out of someone’s tank, and used their salt water to jumpstart my pod. I added a CUC from ------ off ----- (ceriths, mainly, and a few turbos, great group to work with). I made the mistake of ordering too many and some of them have since starved. For any beginners who stumble across this, only add a few snails at first! They’ll get the job done eventually.

After I added the cleanup crew, I gave the tank an extra week or so for things to balance out. As my nitrates began to dip below 10ppm I decided to add a pair of clowns (at the time, didn’t think to find out a vital piece of information: their exact species). I wanted to add the clowns before the nitrates disappeared altogether, I didn’t want bacteria to starve.

Again, more problems.

I slow drip acclimated the clowns over three hours…still, after a day passed and I noticed the clowns had white dots all over. Jen et. Al helped me through setting up a quarantine tank that (a small 10g. marine land tank my neighbors had thrown out). I tested stray voltage in my tank and found it to be over 40V…though every appliance was throwing off voltage over 10 so the problem remains an ongoing issue.

Over the next six weeks I was able to save one of the clowns, but the other died pretty quickly. The surviving clown has been disease free and happy in the display tank for a few weeks now, so the Q tank seems to have worked. I later found out that the store I bought the clowns from (not a sponsor, I believe) keeps salinity low and their fish are usually diseased. Moral of the story: q-tanks are key.


Anyway, I have scrounged around these forums for ideas. I am in the process of replacing my timer system with a RKL system as someone suggested (it looks quite confusing, I must say). I have cut the feeding of my fish down to every other day, and only a very small pinch at that. I vary formula one and two flake. Occasionally I give my little clown freeze dried mysis shrimp or ground shrimp pellets by Omega one. (S)he really seems to enjoy the change in foods and is a ferocious eater (nips my hands if I stick them in there).

That’s really the tank’s story. Getting flow right has been a pain. I’ve still got high nitrates and red gunk growing. I know every one of my devices is throwing off voltage. There is potential for disaster when summer rolls around and the deep south gets hot again.

That being said, I’ve learned a ton about the hobby and love it. It has even helped me with my general chemistry and water bugs (mycobacteria marinia!)…

Future

The direction I plan on going (very slowly, of course. I believe I'll add another piece in late December)


a. Ricordeas I really like these guys
b. Acans and blastos

A hammer or torch? The torch may get too big for a small tank of this size

<u>Fish (one or two of the following)</u>
Pajama cardinal
Goby (green banded, neon striped)
Six line wrasse
Blenny

Fireshrimp

<u>Hardware</u>
ATO
Possibly setup some sort of sump


<u>Ongoing issues</u>
1. Nitrates, and suspected red crud (see photos)

2. Flow and angry mushrooms
3. Where to put random frags of zoas and torch, ricordia! I know the tank looks sloppy right now



4. Construct weirs
5. Continue to research skimmers. I&#8217;m not sold yet on a tank this size, and now that sapphire doesn&#8217;t make the skimmer that fits the pod I&#8217;m even less convinced.
6. Add more sand to areas where pumps built dunes


The end.
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One thing to make sure is that your doing your water changes you have to get the excess nutrients and fish poo out of the water. You will be amazed at what just doing weekly water changes will do for your tank
 
SuperClown;588838 wrote: One thing to make sure is that your doing your water changes you have to get the excess nutrients and fish poo out of the water. You will be amazed at what just doing weekly water changes will do for your tank

I do weekly 10% and a 25% water change once per month. I think I read someplace not to do more than that
 
I applaud you for taking time to research things from the beginning. Sounds like you have had your share of setbacks. We have all been there. Keep your chin up and keep reading and researching. There is a wealth of information and experience here at ARC.

I believe the reddish growth you have is cyanobacteria. It's pretty common in newish set-ups. As nutrient levels drop you should see a correlated drop in cyano. Increased flow and shorter photoperiods can help as well (although if the nutrients are not reduced cyano can come back).

Good luck and keep us posted. Welcome to ARC!!!

Stacy
 
Weird thing happened today; saw a brittle star on my trumpet coral. Next time I looked, the trumpet coral was closed with only one of the star's legs hanging out.

I hope it survives! (see pics)


Other tank news: got a bunch of new coral. Don't remember all the names but will get help IDing at some point. Stuck with non aggressive (save the hollywood stunner and war coral)

Re aquascaped to make more 'shelving'

STILL working on flow.

Am building a 24 Cree LED lighting system to go under the pods hood
x12 royal blue cree
x6 cool white
x6 warm white

x2 meanwell dimmable (48D) drivers
ALC from digital aquatics

I am considering leaving my PC lighting in place under the hood, but also worried that heat might be an issue...

Nitrates may come down, now that I cleaned my plumbing. I think my nitrates where high because after my pod bloom, all of their dead carcasses were getting hung up in the powerhead's tubing. It was gross.
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loving the lil set up and it looks like your algae is under control) or you just cleaned it..lol)

I would strongly urge you not to add anything else until your voltage situation and those nitrates are under control. I would do weekly 20% wc's and see what happens to that number....and dont beleive everything your read..lol.

and what test kit are you using? I know of a certain brand that always said I had 20-40+ nitrates when in all actuality they were below 5 ppm.

another way to help rid of that algae and to try to help with the trates is to reduce your lighting period and feeding - with only 1 fish it shouldnt be hard to do..

some corals just cannot tolerate nitrates that high
 
Wise words, gnashty.

Yes, I cut my hours on the PC and actinics back to 8 and 10 respectively. That really sent the algae away!!! I've been trying to avoid touching the sand bed to much during water changes!

Re Nitrates: I've been using API test kits. I realized that so many people dislike them so I switched my ammonia test kit to Seachem-both API and Seachem give me 0 ammonia.

I really hope taking out all of the dead pod matter from the pumps helps with the nitrates. I'm not really sure what else to do-though I'll take your advice and up the wc to 20%. I was thinking about that anyway. I'm all ready only feeding every 2nd or 3rd day.

Re voltage:

I've tested every appliance under water and everyone seems to throw of voltage of the unacceptable range. My house was built in 1905 though-someone said that perhaps my ground was bad? I am going to have to retest again...I investigated getting a voltage rod a while back and found a lot of mixed comments out there.


There are a lot of random frags in my tank right now-I got a bit enthusiastic last time I was in Atlanta because it is so hard to get quality livestock here in Macon. Hopefully nothing suffers from the move!

thanks for the comments

gnashty;595917 wrote: loving the lil set up and it looks like your algae is under control) or you just cleaned it..lol)

I would strongly urge you not to add anything else until your voltage situation and those nitrates are under control. I would do weekly 20% wc's and see what happens to that number....and dont beleive everything your read..lol.

and what test kit are you using? I know of a certain brand that always said I had 20-40+ nitrates when in all actuality they were below 5 ppm.

another way to help rid of that algae and to try to help with the trates is to reduce your lighting period and feeding - with only 1 fish it shouldnt be hard to do..

some corals just cannot tolerate nitrates that high
 
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