Anyone knows where I can buy one of these

[pbyrmartin]

its a solenoid shutoff valve for my RO/DI feed line
<fieldset class="gc-fieldset">
<legend> Attached files </legend>

 

[elfloyd]

AutoTopOff.com

 

[pbyrmartin]

thanks

just what I needed

 

[nickg]

Brs

 

[pbyrmartin]

nickg;1079388 wrote: Brs

I couldn't find any AC 120v normally close valve on thre site

 

[ghbrewer]

Be sure to get the ones with 1/4" orifice, or you will not get enough pressure. I bought the cheaper ones and learned that lesson the hard way...


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[nickg]

I have a couple laying around. Let me see what they are tonight.

 

[pbyrmartin]

nickg;1079494 wrote: I have a couple laying around. Let me see what they are tonight.

i placed the order already

thanks for looking out thou

 

[pbyrmartin]

are these solenoid design to be left on 24 hrs day
mine got hot after 30 min

 

[grouper therapy]

pbyrmartin;1079904 wrote: are these solenoid design to be left on 24 hrs day
mine got hot after 30 min

Some are , most are not. Check out McMaster Carr for a continuous duty. Irrigation valves work pretty well for pre rodi supply lines.

 

[pbyrmartin]

I got in touch with the guys that sell the solenoid last night, they said it's normal for it to get warm and that won't make it fail but most solenoid not design to run indefinitely.

So I decided to cycle it for 30 min every 2 hours per day to pro long it's life.

I am just using as an emergency shutt off with a float switch in case my mechanical float failed.

 

[pbyrmartin]

this is the one I end up getting

http://www.ebay.com/itm/291283643307?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT">1 8" 120V AC Plastic Electric Solenoid Valve N C Water Air etc 120 110 Vac R O | eBay</a>

here are a few pic of my sump room, yeah I know it looks messy
<fieldset class="gc-fieldset">
<legend> Attached files </legend> [IMG]http://atlantareefclub.org/boards/data/uploads/attachments/1079991=67112-DSC_0565.JPG">[IMG]http://atlantareefclub.org/boards/data/uploads/attachments/1079991=67112-DSC_0565.JPG" class="gc-images" title="DSC_0565.JPG" style="max-width:300px" /></a> [IMG]http://atlantareefclub.org/boards/data/uploads/attachments/1079991=67113-DSC_0566E.jpg>

class="gc-images" title="DSC_0566E.jpg[/IMG] style="max-width:300px" /></a>

>

class="gc-images" title="DSC_0569E.jpg[/IMG] style="max-width:300px" /></a>

 

[sewer urchin]

yeah I know it looks messy

More like crammed full of cool stuff. A messy setup would not have everything labeled, ask me how I know ;-)

Quick question about your dosing pump, I see CA, ALK, Potas and the Red Sea additive.

Is the Potas-

Potash like KNO3 or for ULN tanks
Potassium like KCL for Potassium supplement?

 

[pbyrmartin]

Sewer Urchin;1079995 wrote: More like crammed full of cool stuff. A messy setup would not have everything labeled, ask me how I know ;-)

Quick question about your dosing pump, I see CA, ALK, Potas and the Red Sea additive.

Is the Potas-

Potash like KNO3 or for ULN tanks
Potassium like KCL for Potassium supplement?

my labels didn't get updated when I switch to tropic marine balling method

I no longer dose red sea or potassium

now I dose tropic marine balling method

Pump:

1. Cal part A
2. Alk part B
3. N/A
4. Part C with trace elements

I am loving this balling method, the last time I saw my tank come to life like this was when I was dosing Bi-Iconic 2 parts. but it got too expensive and switch to BRS

I have been struggling with faded sps colors for years,
I think that's behind me now but time will tell.

started the balling method back in January. 3 months ago.

 

[pbyrmartin]

sorry I miss your question, I am just so excited about this Balling salt

it was Potassion-P