ATO and Water Changes

[usvi diver]

My 120 is almost done with its cycle and by this time my back is killing me. I had a tumor removed from my spinal cord in 2008 and I fully recovered but lugging these buckets around is too much. I will have to set up an ATO and some type of water change system if I want to stay in this hobby.

When I set up the tank, I had enough foresight to run a small water line from my rodi unit in my garage to come out of the wall and into my stand for adding water to the ATO. (I plan to use an Elos Osmocontroller from Marein Depot.)

Unfortuantely I did not think ahead and run any hose for pumping water to or from the sump for water changes. So I am looking for ideas on how to run hoses for filling and draining the tank for water changes. I am thinking about running a hose from my garage, under the house and out of the wall just beside my tank. I am also thinking about running a separate hose from the sump to under the house so I can drain the sump. I have never worked on a house sewer system so I dont know what would be involved with the drain line either. I plan to do 10 gallon water changes at a time. The sump is about 4' higher than the level where I make the saltwater. The water is made in rubbermaid brutes.

Some questions I have:
1. How best to run these houses out of a wall.
2. What kind of hose to use.
3. What kind of pump to use.
4. Would it be crazy to drain the DT, move the stand (still containing 200lbs. of rock and sand) and then try to run these hoses in the wall directly behind the tank vice beside the tank in plain view.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Edit:

Edit: 1. How best to run these hoses out of a wall.*

 

[enderg60]

you can get garden hoses and cut the metal ends off and install plastic fittings, then just get a wind up hose reel and a few plastic clamps. you can use the same hose to drain and fill. Pumps optional.

 

[acroholic]

Read this thread: http://www.atlantareefclub.org/forums/showthread.php?t=85396">http://www.atlantareefclub.org/forums/showthread.php?t=85396</a> and this one: [IMG]http://www.atlantareefclub.org/forums/showthread.php?t=78813&highlight=masterflex">http://www.atlantareefclub.org/forums/showthread.php?t=78813&highlight=masterflex</a>

They should help a lot with your questions.

 

[y-not]

Acroholic;903240 wrote: Read this thread: http://www.atlantareefclub.org/forums/showthread.php?t=85396">http://www.atlantareefclub.org/forums/showthread.php?t=85396</a> and this one: [IMG]http://www.atlantareefclub.org/forums/showthread.php?t=78813&highlight=masterflex">http://www.atlantareefclub.org/forums/showthread.php?t=78813&highlight=masterflex</a>

They should help a lot with your questions.[/QUOTE]


I'm honored that you've chosen one of my threads to reference in this post. :yes:

It seems to me that setting up an auto water changer/consistant water changer is going to cost you in the neighborhood of $300 to $600 bucks.
Of course, there are other avenues out there but it you want to try and keep it simple and dependable, it's gonna cost.

I'm still on the fence between as to which hardware to go with but the small diameters of the drain/fill lines makes it seem like a simple chore of drilling a few holes here and there (floors and walls).

I'm going with the constant water change myself. I just need to decide on the hardware.

 

[y-not]

USVI Diver;903231 wrote:
Some questions I have:
1. How best to run these houses out of a wall.
2. What kind of hose to use.
3. What kind of pump to use.
4. Would it be crazy to drain the DT, move the stand (still containing 200lbs. of rock and sand) and then try to run these hoses in the wall directly behind the tank vice beside the tank in plain view.

I've been researching this for a few months now and I'm about to pull the trigger on the final stage of <u>this</em></u> project. So let me share what I've discovered. And if anyone else sees a flaw in my plans, please, please, please chime in.

I've got my RO/DI system set up to pump about 45 gallons of fresh water into a Brute container.
From that container, I'll pour about 15 to 20 gallons into another Brute. In my saltwater Brute, I have a circulation pump. I'll add the proper amount of salt to the freshwater until it reaches 1.026.

My first thought was that I wanted to pump X amount from the display tank then replace it with saltwater (SW) from my SW brute.

I was over thinking it...
Another member mentioned to me about the possibility of setting up a constant water changing system. So not only did that delay my project due to researching the idea, it allowed me the time to discover the piece that I needed to make that happen.

Long story short, a constant water change system is better than a once a week change.

What I've found that I'll need is a peristaltic pump(s). One that can pull out and replace the same volume of water at the same time.

I was looking at the Flex Master peristaltic pump but due to my installation needs, that will not work.

So I've narrowed it down to the Litermeter peristaltic system.
This system has 1 pump by default and you have the option to add 2 more, external pumps.
All three pumps can be calibrated differently. This is key for me.

Here's the important part for you.

The hoses are the 1/4 inch ice maker hoses that are most likely supplying water to your ice maker at home.

So in your case, if you want to set up the constant water changer, you'll have to drill two, 1/4 holes to run the tubes. Even I could sneak that past my wife.

There's a fella on this board that has a slightly used litermeter w/3 pumps that he may want to sell.

In my case, the Litermeter & 2 pumps are going to cost about $520. You can get a used Litermeter with pumps for less than that.

I think that should help with most of your questions. As far as draining the tank, forget about it!
That's WAAAY too much work.

Edit: Oh yeah, I almost for got this part.
The waste saltwater will drain directly into my house drain line.

http://www.atlantareefclub.org/forums/photoplog/images/7119/medium/1_Drain.JPG" alt="" />

I'll have a loop in the line to act as a "j" trap.

 

[usvi diver]

Thanks for the information. It helped alot. I have a good idea of what I want to do now.

 

[usvi diver]

Y-Not;903381 wrote: I've got my RO/DI system set up to pump about 45 gallons of fresh water into a Brute container.
From that container, I'll pour about 15 to 20 gallons into another Brute. In my saltwater Brute, I have a circulation pump. I'll add the proper amount of salt to the freshwater until it reaches 1.026.

I was re-reading this post and was thinking instead of pumping from one brute to another, why not split the outlet of your RO/DI system with some John Guest fittings and valves? Have one line go to the FW brute and one line go to the SW brute.

Y-Not;903381 wrote: Edit: Oh yeah, I almost for got this part.
The waste saltwater will drain directly into my house drain line.

http://www.atlantareefclub.org/forums/photoplog/images/7119/medium/1_Drain.JPG" alt="" />

I'll have a loop in the line to act as a "j" trap.[/QUOTE]

I am not very familiar with plumbing. What kind of fitting and hose is that pictured above? Did you have to only drill a hole in the existing PVC of your house's drain line or did you have to cut it apart and add a new section?

 

[y-not]

Yeah, having a line from the RO/DI to the fresh AND the salt containers is part of the plan.
I'll just have to pick up an extra float valve and a three way valve.

The fitting in the photo is a standard barbed connection with the other end being threaded.
Drill the proper sized hole in the top side of the drain line, wrap some Teflon tape around the threads and screw it in. Make a loop in the drain line so as to prevent gases from coming back up and slip the drain line onto the barbs. Because this is not a pressurized line, there is no need for a clamp.

The barbed connections are found a Lowes, Home Depot, Ace Hardware, etc...