auto fill
- Thread starter buffcole
- Start date
Been there...
Here's two options:
- make sure the end of the ATO hose is above the ato reservoir. To do this I ended up replacing the 32 gallon Brutt with a shorter 5 gallon reservoir.
- I think the best option is to use a perisitic pump. The hose is sealed so it prevents siphoning when the pump is not running. I went this route 6 or 8 months ago and haven't looked back. I use a perisitic pump from avast marine.com. It only pumps .4 GPM, so spills are smaller if something goes wrong.
Here's two options:
- make sure the end of the ATO hose is above the ato reservoir. To do this I ended up replacing the 32 gallon Brutt with a shorter 5 gallon reservoir.
- I think the best option is to use a perisitic pump. The hose is sealed so it prevents siphoning when the pump is not running. I went this route 6 or 8 months ago and haven't looked back. I use a perisitic pump from avast marine.com. It only pumps .4 GPM, so spills are smaller if something goes wrong.
That's what he really wanted was a pump but didn't know where to get or what it was called. His last idea was put a T at the high point that would allow air to come into the line and it would stop the siphoning. We have a 5 gallon right now that pumps it in whenever it needs it but we are so tired of feeding it 2-3 gallons a day. Does anyone know if this would work?
What ato are you using? The ato hose has to be above the top off holding tank.
Spell check got me!
Peristaltic Pump
You want it lower thats the issue
This is my set up:
I purchased the Avast Peristaltic pump for my DIY auto top off: RODI is in the garage, so I have one side of the pump drawing water from the RODI storage (5' up), then the output of the pump goes through the ceiling, across the attic, then down into the sump. This is a total run of about 60', Overflow prevention is always a concern when feeding RODI directly from storage. However I know the Avast pump's output is .4 gallons per hour and a peristaltic pump prevents a siphon. The pump is controlled by an Apex controller, so (along with water level switches) I can control how long the pump runs each day. Currently I have it capable of running two hours a day, with the level switches controlling when (during that two hours) the pump actually needs to run. The pump is VERY quiet... I have output feeding into an Avast Kalk Stirrer, and the set-up works perfectly for me.
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yes i think the T idea would work as long as you have something on the open end of the T to keep water from getting out there. you could add pipe that extends upwards for a foot or two. and the other solution would be to have an end cap on it and drill a small hole and glue on an airline check valve to it. and the reason i say use an airline check valve rather then a water check valve is that you would have to mount the valve upside down and gravity would most likely keep the flapper from closing.
There has to be an air break in the line coming from the ATO pump that is above the level of the top of the ATO 32 gallon brute, even if it's just 1/4". Run a piece of 1/2 pvc into the sump and make sure the top of it ends just above the brute, then secure it in place. Now attach the tubing from the ato pump to every top of it. The pvc will direct the water into the sump and keep noise down while keeping the end of the ATO hose above the level of the brute can.
Just as long as the tee is above the highest water level in the brute can it will work fine.
Any luck? How's it working out?buffcole;1087696 wrote:alt="" />
This is what he did last night.
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You can T the supply line and run an inconspicuous line up high enough so water doesn't come out
So long, and thanks for all the fish.
So long, and thanks for all the fish.
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