Automatic water change and nutrient export

project1004

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I was wondering if you guys can give me some advice regarding AWC and algae turf scrubber.

Have your needing for nutrients export system (whether it is skimmer, turf scrubber, filter sock, roller, carbon dosing, etc) became less needed after using the automatic water changing? And was it constantly stabled? Did your tank do better or worst? Any inputs and thoughts will be helpful.


Last weekend, I’ve added AWC using liter meter 3 (changing 5Gallon per week on 30Gal system, that’s about 2.5ish % per day) and wondering if I should take the algae turf scrubber to be off line completely. My salt (Frits rpm) water for AWC was indicating the alkalinity of 9.0dkh but when I came back home and tested the leftover it has dropped to 7.9dkh within the 5days of seating in the system bucket).

The thing is automatic water change is keeping my tank too clean for the turf scrubber to properly get a hold on. (It actually never took off since the tank has been pretty clean from the start). And the scrubber is the loudest thing in my tank (air stone). I do have some hair algae in the display (pops up here and there). which is isolated to one area and is the food source for my hector’s goby and my snails. All fishes and corals are doing great.


Tank started early July. Using Red Sea dry rock and Carib dry sand (washed out everything and dried before adding). And started adding clown fishes and SPS corals once the tank cycled.

Tank display is 24G cube with filter roller with NO skimmer and Santa Monica drop 1.2x Upflow algae scrubber which has not fully growing turf algae. Been in the tank for last 3month.

I do feed my fishes heavy. Two to three times a day. Both dry and wet. Coral food consist of phytoplankton and oysters feast, PNS sno and reef roid etc. I feed other stuff as well.

My tank parameters are:

Salinity: 1.027/35 - 1.025/33 stable at 1.027/35
ATO using IM ato

Temperature: 77.5-78.5 (I keep two temp probes for safety measure).

Alkalinity: 7.8-8.5 usually around 8.2 but current down to 7.9. (Tank only consumes about 0.5dkh daily atm). I dose Esv 2pt (6ml each per day using bubble magus dosing pump). 3rd pump is pumping acro power.

pH: 8.4-8.1 depends on the time of the day. Using hand held Hanna checkers. In the past I do think having a aeration from the scrubber helped keep my pH up. But now having 2pt dosing my pH have gone up higher to 8.4. Use to be around 8.0-.8.2.

Calcium: 400-385. Tested time to time with Hannah test kit

Magnesium: 1400-1370ish. Tested using Red Sea test kit once in a while

Nitrate: Keeps going down but I keep it at at least 3.0 but it for go down to below 1.0 sometimes which I add potassium nitrate to grind the level up. Ideally I like it to be below 5.0

Phosphate: 0.10-0.00. I am dosing neophos to keep the phosphate to at least registering on test kit.


Turf scrubber as it looks now (12hr lights on).
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Took this picture on Oct 15th. I did scrubber the brown stuff off that day.
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Last edited:
Yap yap. It probably is. Coming from the era of ULNS it seems like I do have too much of exporting happening. Of all three exporting method, I’ll definitely keep the roller and AWC and take out the scrubber off line for now. Granted I only stated AWC past weekend. I knew turf scrubber is unable to get the hold of the necessary nutrients. Only reason I kept it in there is knowing it does take time for the scrubber to start producing algae.

Thanks for that reasoning, now thinking about it, taking it off line may even help with stabilizing the system granted I’ve never considered it doing anything but assisting with elevating pH. That’s two plugs off apex eb8.


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I agree with morganatlanta way to much. Ive learned with turf scrubber once seeded protein skimmer quits working. But said that awc is the best way to keep tank stable. What are nitrates and phos reading. Seems like with all you got there your levels might be zero.
 
I agree with morganatlanta way to much. Ive learned with turf scrubber once seeded protein skimmer quits working. But said that awc is the best way to keep tank stable. What are nitrates and phos reading. Seems like with all you got there your levels might be zero.

I’ve added my water parameters in a original post. Nitrate and phosphate has been going down drastically since adding AWC.

After responding to morning message,
I’ve went and changed my AWC to change 5 gal in 14days instead of 7days to combat this matter hopping to have more stable parameters. Which the calculator gives about 30% per month on changed water instead of being close to 50% from initial setup.


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Also took turf scrubber off line for now.🥸


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How are you liking
The awc… I’ve considered adding one myself . Does it help w stability ?


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How are you liking
The awc… I’ve considered adding one myself . Does it help w stability ?


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I am sold on AWC. I’m finally at the point where I don’t test for nutrients like phosphate and nitrate. I was testing each day trying to figure out my tank consumption and get to know my tank. Now that I have AWC and 2pt setup, I am only testing for alkalinity consumption and making adjustment.

I test for salinity and alkalinity of new saltwater and exchange out the bucket... I had issue getting turf scrubber going so I took that out and my system is only running on filter roller and AWC.

Only time will tell but my system is very stable. I contribute that to 2pt dosing more than AWC since I am exchanging 1-2%per day. Trace element is being replaced by AWC so less worry there is good too. Over the weekend, I sow one of coral took off and looks like it’s giving me a finger. Lol. 3 months in my tank. Picture of before and after <>
AWC definitely made me less worried and lazier
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I'd love to hear more about your AWC setup. I ran lines through the crawlspace to do it but LiterMeters seemed to have disappeard in the pandemic and I haven't got back around to doing it yet.
 
AWC helps with stability for all those things you don't measure that might be building up or getting depleted. You do still need to dose Alk/Calc/Mag and maybe trace elements. The challenge I've had with it in regards to "stability" is keeping the "in" equal to the "out" so that salinity doesn't drift around. The consumer grade pumps and equipment we use just aren't that reliable and accurate.
 
Trace elements are not replaced by a water change unless you do a 100% change.
Your premise is valid, only in that one instance.

It is more complex than this, for several reasons, including -

-most don’t know what their current trace element level(s) are?

-most have no idea what the trace element consumption rate(s) are in their aquarium, if any?

-most have no idea what the trace element content(s) of their newly mixed water is?

Knowing the above could lead to both consumption and replacement being adjusted fairly easily.

AWC premises include these -

-consumption, if it occurs, is gradual

-replacement, if it needs to occur, should also be gradual.

The Tropic Marin All for Reef, for example, is a product that has attempted to facilitate replacement of 17 elements gradually, based on mean consumption rates. Their premise, ties it all back to alkalinity consumption as ‘the indicator reference’ for dosage rate. Results, in general, speak for themselves.



The Reef Moonshiner’s Method is another gradual trace replacement method, which has also produced positive results -


Both of the above methods have had results confirmed via ICP testing.
* It is important to know the source of the ICP lab tests, as some labs seem to be better than others? Also, some elements appear to produce more reliable results than others? Although a good lab, equipment, procedures and/or technician may well influence this.
 
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