best way to brace a floor?

jrhunter0000

Active Member
Market
Messages
941
Reaction score
116
Location
Warner Robins
Ok so im putting in a 210 gallon tank i live in a older house. i just went under my crawl space and took a look around. my floor is sitting on cinder blocks. Im scared as hell this tank will go through the floor and want to do everything i can to stop it. whats the best method to brace?
 
Post pics of where the tank will sit, as well as the floor joists in the crawl space beneath. (If you can). That will make it easier for people to offer their "Opinions". But please be aware that the safest bet is to get a structural engineer to look at it.
 
The dimensions of the floor joists beneath, and spacing of piers would also be helpful. The more specifics the better.
 
Yeah, your looking at over 2000 lbs of weight when filled. Good idea to get someone to look at these kinda of things if you are not putting it on a concrete slab.
 
ghbrewer;970771 wrote: Yeah, your looking at over 2000 lbs of weight when filled. Good idea to get someone to look at these kinda of things if you are not putting it on a concrete slab.

Yea :)
 
There should really be a sticky about this somewhere on the forum, as it is a very important consideration when looking at buying and/or placing a large aquarium.
 
I start by saying "I want you to sit down and brace yourself. I have something to tell you. You are adopted."
 
rdnelson99;970775 wrote: I start by saying "I want you to sit down and brace yourself. I have something to tell you. You are adopted."

LOL... Rich, don't you have a stand to build.....;)
 
I used something like this for one of my tanks. I just addd two or 3 on 5' tank. Works great if you floor joist are running the correct way. If not that a another story.

a>
 
sailfish;970875 wrote: I used something like this for one of my tanks. I just addd two or 3 on 5' tank. Works great if you floor joist are running the correct way. If not that a another story.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Tiger-Brand-Super-S-1-ft-7-in-Jack-Post-J-S-36/100041510">http://www.homedepot.com/p/Tiger-Brand-Super-S-1-ft-7-in-Jack-Post-J-S-36/100041510</a>[/QUOTE]

Those jack posts are really handy, and work great, as long as they are bedded properly and placed correctly.

It is still a good idea to have someone look at it though if you do not have the appropriate background/knowledge.
 
ghbrewer;970878 wrote: Those jack posts are really handy, and work great, as long as they are bedded properly and placed correctly.

It is still a good idea to have someone look at it though if you do not have the appropriate background/knowledge.

Yea for sure im going to get a opinion from a few people first!
 
Just for future reference, and for others that might be considering the same. I would like to provide a little basis for my statements. Anytime you are placing a large tank on any floor, other than a concrete slab (although when you get above 300 gallons, i suggest looking at the slabs as well), you have to consider the strength of the floor beneath the tank. In the case of the OP, he is considering setting up a 210 gallon tank on a floor that is wood frame supported by cinder block piers.

In this case, the tank itself will weigh somewhere between 400 and 500 lbs empty. Then you add in the water that will weigh between 1700 to 1800 lbs, so you are now looking at around 2100 to 2300 lbs. Add in the weight of however much rock you are going to use (will displace some water, but for the sake of conservatism and a little safety factor we will ignore this) and the stand, sump (consider this too), equipment, etc...; you could easily be looking at well over 3000 lbs sitting in a footprint of approximately (6-ft x 2-ft, or 12 square feet).

Most residential homes, at least in the last 20 to 30 years, have been built in accordance with international building codes (I say most, but I have seen a lot of old/poorly built homes that I cannot imagine would come anywhere near meeting today's standards). Generally speaking, in today's construction, living area floors are built to withstand a live load of 40 pounds per square foot (psf). There is a lot of misinformation on the web regarding live and dead loads. So for the sake of simplicity, a live load is anything that can be moved around (i.e. furniture, people, planters, and...aquariums). Dead loads are the loads produced by the structure itself (i.e. the weight of the framing itself, drywall, windows, roofing, etc...). So again, living areas are generally designed to support 40 psf of live load. Sleeping areas, or bedrooms and such, are usually only designed to support 20 psf of live load.

So "simply speaking" your tank and its peripherals are going to be producing around 250 psf of live load, based on 3000 lbs over 12 sq. ft. So, as you can see, a 210 gallon tank is going to be placing over 6x the amount of live load that most residential living area floors (stick frame construction, or those with wooden floor joists) are designed to withstand, and around 12x the load for a bedroom area.

Again, this is a very simplistic approach to looking at this, and in reality there is a lot of other things to consider, such as stand construction, joist type, size and spacing, bearing plates, structure and proximity of neighboring walls, etc... So that is why I suggest that a professional engineer (and I suggest getting one with a PE license, and whom specializes in structural engineering) take a look at what you are planning to do, as well as come to your house to take a look. They are more than capable to offer advice on how to get the job done properly.
 
Great information Grant! Thanks for the advise and for taking the time to share all this really important considerations for those fellas willing to get their big tanks!
 
That is great information and info I wish I would have had before paying a PE $300 to come out and tell me I couldn't put a huge tank above my garage....... no discount for giving bad news. :/
 
ghbrewer;970903 wrote: Just for future reference, and for others that might be considering the same. I would like to provide a little basis for my statements. Anytime you are placing a large tank on any floor, other than a concrete slab (although when you get above 300 gallons, i suggest looking at the slabs as well), you have to consider the strength of the floor beneath the tank. In the case of the OP, he is considering setting up a 210 gallon tank on a floor that is wood frame supported by cinder block piers.

In this case, the tank itself will weigh somewhere between 400 and 500 lbs empty. Then you add in the water that will weigh between 1700 to 1800 lbs, so you are now looking at around 2100 to 2300 lbs. Add in the weight of however much rock you are going to use (will displace some water, but for the sake of conservatism and a little safety factor we will ignore this) and the stand, sump (consider this too), equipment, etc...; you could easily be looking at well over 3000 lbs sitting in a footprint of approximately (6-ft x 2-ft, or 12 square feet).

Most residential homes, at least in the last 20 to 30 years, have been built in accordance with international building codes (I say most, but I have seen a lot of old/poorly built homes that I cannot imagine would come anywhere near meeting today's standards). Generally speaking, in today's construction, living area floors are built to withstand a live load of 40 pounds per square foot (psf). There is a lot of misinformation on the web regarding live and dead loads. So for the sake of simplicity, a live load is anything that can be moved around (i.e. furniture, people, planters, and...aquariums). Dead loads are the loads produced by the structure itself (i.e. the weight of the framing itself, drywall, windows, roofing, etc...). So again, living areas are generally designed to support 40 psf of live load. Sleeping areas, or bedrooms and such, are usually only designed to support 20 psf of live load.

So "simply speaking" your tank and its peripherals are going to be producing around 250 psf of live load, based on 3000 lbs over 12 sq. ft. So, as you can see, a 210 gallon tank is going to be placing over 6x the amount of live load that most residential living area floors (stick frame construction, or those with wooden floor joists) are designed to withstand, and around 12x the load for a bedroom area.

Again, this is a very simplistic approach to looking at this, and in reality there is a lot of other things to consider, such as stand construction, joist type, size and spacing, bearing plates, structure and proximity of neighboring walls, etc... So that is why I suggest that a professional engineer (and I suggest getting one with a PE license, and whom specializes in structural engineering) take a look at what you are planning to do, as well as come to your house to take a look. They are more than capable to offer advice on how to get the job done properly.

Very well said.
 
Back
Top