- Messages
- 462
- Reaction score
- 15
Using a cannon and can't seem to get good pictures with blues on and tips?
Bgcoop8784;969416 wrote: normally you would have to change the white balance, but turning the whites up works also. My camera has white balance settings that you can change real time so that you can match the colors that you actually see, but I don't know with a cannon without changing the white balance.
tater;969423 wrote: Yeah it's one of the formats you shoot in. It makes it so you're using the raw image as it is, looks much better and way easier to edit.
gacolt;969511 wrote: use polarized sunglasses it will cut out all the blue
glad i could help.its a cool trickoldedb;969560 wrote: Just tried this w/ an iPhone 5 and this is the single best photo tip I have ever gotten. I couldn't believe the difference
Yes I belive it is a dslr. Guys thank you for all of your advice I'll now try to put it into action! On the flip side I'm excited that I've created a thread that helps alot of people not just me!Allen;969445 wrote: RAW (or NEF's if you're shooting Nikon) files are images that are unprocessed and given to you just as the image sensor "sees" the image (like film). RAW files are most commonly processed with a program called Lightroom. (See what they did there? Film was processed in dark rooms, RAW files are processed in Lightroom.) Anyway, Since the camera doesn't process a RAW file for you, you have a much broader range of adjustment without sacrificing quality. Don't delete any pictures in camera because they may turn out okay in post-production. I used to have a bad habit of deleting something that wasn't exposed properly.
Don't spend too much time messing with white balance settings in camera as it will be 100% adjustable in post as long as you shoot in RAW and edit in Lightroom. If anything, put it on "shade" or "cloudy." If you have a telephoto lens, try using it. I have found if you take a tight shot from a few steps back, the blue LED's won't blow out the picture as bad.
Clean your glass. Stay as perpendicular as you can to the glass. Turn off any device that moves the water. Keep that aperture wide open (low f-number) and shutter speed no lower than 1/30. Depending on the camera body, you will probably want to stay under ISO800. If you're shooting coral, set your autofocus to single point servo. If you're shooting fish, you want to set your focus to continuous autofocus, and you want to pan the camera with the fish's movement. The latter is not easy, and takes practice.
I just realized that I typed all of this not knowing if you're using a DSLR or point a shoot camera...
Hope it helps, anyway!