Big tank MOVE

[ga_daisy]

Hello all! Its been a long while since I've been on here.....but I desperately need everyone's help/ideas/suggestions.

I'm about to move my 235 gal reef. Any "Oh crap don't do that" or "Man I wish I would have thought of this when I moved my tank" thoughts would be GREATLY appreciated right now. I have about a month window to get everything squared away and pull the trigger.....I start UGA August 13!

Also, my tank is currently in the wall and won't be at the new place. I need to build or buy CHEAP a stand and canopy. Does anyone have thoughts/suggestions/ideas for an effective, efficient, and aesthetically pleasing set?

There is nothing worse than getting everything set up to find a better way of doing things and that's the reason I'm calling on all of the experts here.....I know you guys have learned by doing. Trial and error are our best teachers.....and I would love to keep my "Oh crap" moments down to a minimum.

 

[rdnelson]

ga_daisy;781200 wrote:
and I would love to keep my "Oh crap" moments down to a minimum.

That's what my 100 year old grandfather used to say. hehehehe

I don't have a lot of experience but what kinds of questions do you have? As for transporting fish and corals make sure you get a good invertor so you can plug some powerheads and maybe an air pump in.

 

[jef4y]

How far is the move?

Set up everything you possibly can ahead of time. I.e., have the stand placed, canopy there, wiring done, water completely made and up to temp, sand purchased, etc.

The more you can stage, the better off you will be.

Running around at the last minute SUCKS and can cost you livestock.

If you can, have a couple stock tanks at the new place. One with your new tank's water in it, and another that you can keep livestock and rock (or possibly a 3rd tank for rock). Make SURE they are big enough that the livestock can live for 3-5 days in it without completely fouling up the water.

I moved a 60 cube from Milwaukee to Atlanta 2 years ago with VERY minimal loss (1 urchin, 1 leather and a colony of zoas), but it was VERY expensive and labor intense. A 235 will be a monumental task for sure. Plan plan plan.. you cannot over-plan this move...

 

[rtackett]

Where are you moving the tank to in Athens - I am there and should be able to help here

 

[legalreefer]

rtackett;781215 wrote: Where are you moving the tank to in Athens - I am there and should be able to help here

X2 if Im here

 

[eagle9252]

JeF4y;781208 wrote: How far is the move?

Set up everything you possibly can ahead of time. I.e., have the stand placed, canopy there, wiring done, water completely made and up to temp, sand purchased, etc.

The more you can stage, the better off you will be.

Running around at the last minute SUCKS and can cost you livestock.

If you can, have a couple stock tanks at the new place. One with your new tank's water in it, and another that you can keep livestock and rock (or possibly a 3rd tank for rock). Make SURE they are big enough that the livestock can live for 3-5 days in it without completely fouling up the water.

I moved a 60 cube from Milwaukee to Atlanta 2 years ago with VERY minimal loss (1 urchin, 1 leather and a colony of zoas), but it was VERY expensive and labor intense. A 235 will be a monumental task for sure. Plan plan plan.. you cannot over-plan this move...

+1

fail to plan = plan to fail.

just as Rich said an inverter and some power heads and air pump. no need for heaters at the moment.

as for the stand the cheapest would be and open frame out of 2x4s and 2x6. or 2x8 cant remeber off top of my head for the spread with no center supports. you could hang a curtain to hide the bottom as budget for school allows.

make a screen top and set some lights over it. then later build a canopy to keep the overflow of light out of the room.

HTH

 

[wildernets]

+1 on the planning. I have moved my tank a few times and each time I get a litter better at it. One thing I would say is to plan time in your move for JUST the tank. Moves take me on average 10-12 hours. Figure in sand settle time, aquascaping time, etc.

I like using a 55gallon rubbermaid trash can for the rock. Get the ones with the wheels. You will be thankful. Remember you have to actually move all the weight you put in the bin. I have forgotten to pay attention and had to split down to two. Then have another plastic bin or whatever for rock with corals on it. Basically I use plastic for rock and glass tanks for livestock and small corals.

Make more water than you think you will need. If you do not have a water filter to make your own water you might want to think about it. It might pay for itself vs. buying all that water. I usually don't use the water I moved the tank stuff in for the water that will go in the display tank after the move. the "move" water will be nasty with all the stuff that comes out of the rocks from the movement. I get it as close as possible to the current water and go with it. On my last move I did not lose anything so it seems to work fine.

My biggest fight is usually water temp. Try as I might, it is always off one way or the other. I usually get the new tank to whatever the move water is at then bring it up or down after the critters are back in.

I also leave the lights on actinics in the beginning. After the aquascaping I turn them all off and add the fish and inverts. I am not sure if this has any scientific merit to this but I just think it would be easier for the fish that have been thrust into this brand new world. Gives them time to hide, explore, and sort out boundaries. I then just let them start up at the normal times they would before the move.

I would agree on the open stand. I have one out of 2x4 and it works great. I stained it and covered it later. If you put the supports in the right places then you can attach doors to them or wrap it in plywood.

Hope this helps.
Oh, and have lots of towels on hand and maybe a shop vac if you have one.

 

[rdnelson]

When I did my 125 upgrade, I had all my new tank water in a 150 gallon stock tank sitting next to the new tank location. After placing all the sand and the rock, I got a small tupperware bowl and put on the sand bed. Using a small pump with a hose I pumped the water into the tupperware bowl. Absolutely no sand was stired up and I had no cloudyness. Of course, I pre-rinsed all my sand a few days in advance so I knew it was good an clean. That is one big advantage of using dry sand as opposed to live sand.

 

[ga_daisy]

So you are saying that I would be better off using dry sand instead of live sand? That seems sort of backwards to me. I was planning on live sand, but haven't ordered/bought anything yet.

Suggestions on rinsing sand?

I read on some other forum that you shouldn't use pressure treated wood....again, this seems backwards to me. I have a fish that is constantly fanning at the top of the waterline and splashing anyone near the tank.....rotting wood is a HUGE concern of mine.

I actually bought this tank used back several years ago and maintained most of the trashcans, paint buckets and rubbermaids from the move. The biggest difference is this time.....I have livestock, whereas before it was just sand, rock, water and hardware.

 

[rdnelson]

If you are concerned with off gassing of the pressure treated wood, set it out side for a week or two. Will not hurt it a bit.

As for the sand, your live rock should be sufficient to sustain your livestock as long as you do not add bioload. If dry sand is rinsed well (I did it in a 5 gallon bucket with a hose in my driveway in about 30 minutes) it should produce little or no cloudyness. I will not take long for it to develope into live sand. If you are concerned, put some of your existing sand in a sealed tupperware container and use that to seed the new sand.

ga_daisy;781372 wrote: So you are saying that I would be better off using dry sand instead of live sand? That seems sort of backwards to me. I was planning on live sand, but haven't ordered/bought anything yet.

Suggestions on rinsing sand?

I read on some other forum that you shouldn't use pressure treated wood....again, this seems backwards to me. I have a fish that is constantly fanning at the top of the waterline and splashing anyone near the tank.....rotting wood is a HUGE concern of mine.

I actually bought this tank used back several years ago and maintained most of the trashcans, paint buckets and rubbermaids from the move. The biggest difference is this time.....I have livestock, whereas before it was just sand, rock, water and hardware.

 

[ga_daisy]

Another question about leveling up the tank. I've read several threads in the past on various sites that suggested using some foam type stuff to help level the tank. Has anyone done this? What do I need to get? I didn't do it when I setup the tank originally. I've always had concerns of more pressure weight being on one side and pulling on the aquarium seals.

I'm guessing now would also be a good opportunity to buff out scratches. Ideas / suggestions for that?