Bioballs out Live rock in?

[son of adam]

So I want to remove the bioballs from the sump and put all my live rock rubble in its place. Will the sump/bioball chamber tray hold the wieght of the rubble? I am using a typical AGA Model 4 sump.

It was suggested to me, so I am leaning that way. I have heard that the bioballs are not that great anyway. The drip tray above the bioballs should stay right? To spread the water over the rubble.

Your insight is welcomed.


-Scott.

 

[jennm]

Yep, or use Seachem Matrix in a large mesh bag It's lighter than rubble and cleaner too.

Jenn

 

[coolsurf]

If your unsure about the weight factor, I would suggest using Matrix instead. It does not weigh much and a little bit goes along ways.

 

[coolsurf]

jennm;384851 wrote: yep, or use seachem matrix in a large mesh bag it's lighter than rubble and cleaner too.

Jenn

+1

 

[son of adam]

O.K. I will look at Matrix then before diving in. Thanks.

 

[jennm]

GMTA, Coolsurf

 

[rbredding]

Does the Seachem Matrix need to be replaced on a regular basis?

 

[son of adam]

SeaGel™ is a blend of MatrixCarbon™ and PhosGuard™. Along side some Matrix stones Jenn spoke of.

What is some opinions of useing this stuff in mesh bags in the bioball chamber, bio balls excluded of course.

My Phates are up and water is two weeks old. 1.0 - 2.0 mgl. Tested last night. Will this help keep phates in check during a typical water change schedule of 2-3 weeks time. 220 gal. system. 44gal. water change is typical.

I don't know what to use and how to use it. Never tried this stuff. Never used carbon much at all and never used phosguard or any other like media. My water is always good in other tests but phates right now. But now saying that all will be waked tonight. Knocking on wood/head as type this.

I think I feed to much. Phates from food right? I use at least 4 - 5 cubes of food a day. Like Myssis, krill, squid, Green algea sheet, Brine, some new gell food for trigers some green cube for tangs.

Rambleing on here.

 

[jennm]

You can use either SeaGel or just Phosguard to remove phosphates. I like the SeaGel because you get both the carbon and Phosguard in the same bag (less space). The little mesh bags of those products are great for nanos, but for larger systems I'd suggest getting the larger containers and using re-usable media bags.

Some here will advise you against using Phosguard - it's a matter of choice/opinion. IME it's the safest choice, but all such products have pros and cons. There are a few different ways to remove phosphate, liquids like CaribSea Phosbuster Pro and Brightwell Phosphate E, aluminum based products like Seachem Phosguard and Kent Phosphate Sponge, and granular ferrous oxide products like PhosBan.

It's an individual thing - research them all and choose the one that best suits your needs and system.

I personally use Phosguard in my own systems and have not had any ill effects - we have reactors on a couple of our systems at the shop and use it.

I've used the liquid products too -but if they are misused or improperly dosed, there are some risks associated with that too.

And GFO is very popular and effective but it must also be used with care.

Seachem Renew is also a carbon substitute you may want to use if you don't want to use activated carbon.

Seachem Purigen is a good organic remover too and makes the water very clear.

ChemiPure is another product that is quite popular also.

Jenn

 

[son of adam]

Thanks for the info.

 

[coolsurf]

Rbredding;387261 wrote: Does the Seachem Matrix need to be replaced on a regular basis?

Matrix never has to be replaced. It is all biological and once seeded, it is good to go from that point forward.