First let me start off by saying there's a lot more than light intensity to tuning the fixtures. Low nutrient systems need less light, this is where you'll see burnt tips on SPS if the lights are turned up too high. Think 0.01-0.03 PO4 and 0.1-1.0 NO3. Then there's the type of tank you plan to run. Softy/LPS, SPS or mixed reef.
Nutrients aside. If all you're doing is growing coral and don't care what the fish or other non-florescent things look like in your tank, then just run the UV and blue. But tune them so you don't over power the tank. Those wavelengths are very hard for our eyes to distinguish intensity. 80-100% may be way too strong and will also add wear to the diodes. For Softy/LPS and mixed reef 80-120 par at the sand bed should be more than enough and I wouldn't push it past 150-180 down there. If you go that high or higher I would highly recommend figuring out what settings get you back down around 100 par so you know were to drop the intensity to for acclimation of new corals and slowly ramp them up. For SPS only 180-250 par at the sand bed. If you're seeing burnt tips lower the intensity.
Now if you want to grow corals but also care how everything else looks too, like I do. Then you'll need some white, red and cyan/green. How much of those is up to personal preference. Unless you're acclimating, anything above 470nm and the white is where you should tinker and leave everything below 470nm alone. There is a little PUR from what blue is in the white spectrums, but unless you really crank them up it won't effect your initial settings too much if at all.
My plan to setup my lights is to tune them with a Par meter in the UV thru Blue (380-410 if you have those spectrums in your fixture, to 470nm). Once the par is where I want from top to bottom of the tank I'll add in the white, red & cyan/green till I like what I see.
