BLV/Ushio
- Thread starter skriz
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Just FYI- I heard the Ushio 14Ks got awful reviews (from hobbyists). Apparently the PAR is very bad. Sorry to sidetrack.
Never go with Ushio, Radium or anything in the range of 14k except http://www.reeflightinginfo.arvixe.com/alldataforalamp.php?x1=144&x2=17&x3=BLV 400W Nepturion 14000K SE 1&x4=Magnatek 400W (M59)&x5=N"><span style="color: #0000ff;">BLV 400W Nepturion 14000K SE 1</span></a>, which have a 142 PPDF
[IMG]http://www.reeflightinginfo.arvixe.com/alldataforalamp.php?x1=49&x2=17&x3=XM 400W 20000K SE 1&x4=Magnatek 400W (M59)&x5=N"><span style="color: #800080;">XM 400W 20000K SE 1</span></a> Have a 128 PPDF
EVC10k is the brightest they come in SE 400W, I use them now and they're so bright I have to adjust my photo period by 50%. Somewhat yellowish-green tho, but they have a very high UV and Actinic concentration, therefore the neons still come out the same on your corals.
PPFD and PAR are not the same, and there is no general conversion between the two.
PPFD is Moles per square meter per second (Photosynthetic Photon Flux Density)
PAR is just Photosynthetic Active Band/Radiation
The easiest conversion between PPFD and PAR IMO is just multiply the PPFD by 400nm-700nm. Read the spectral chart of your bulb and take the average of all spectrum.
For example this XM-20K on a M59 Ballast [IMG]http://www.reeflightinginfo.arvixe.com/passed-link-id.php?x1=49&x2=17&x3=XM 400W 20000K SE 1&x4=Magnatek 400W (M59)&x5=N">http://www.reeflightinginfo.arvixe.com/passed-link-id.php?x1=49&x2=17&x3=XM 400W 20000K SE 1&x4=Magnatek 400W (M59)&x5=N</a>
This is far from being an exact science. See that most of the radiance is coming from the 440-460 range, and anything from 470-700 would average out with the 360-430, so you just multiply the PPDF by 450 to get your PAR.
[IMG]http://www.reeflightinginfo.arvixe.com/alldataforalamp.php?x1=49&x2=17&x3=XM 400W 20000K SE 1&x4=Magnatek 400W (M59)&x5=N"><span style="color: #800080;">XM 400W 20000K SE 1</span></a> Have a 128 PPDF
EVC10k is the brightest they come in SE 400W, I use them now and they're so bright I have to adjust my photo period by 50%. Somewhat yellowish-green tho, but they have a very high UV and Actinic concentration, therefore the neons still come out the same on your corals.
PPFD and PAR are not the same, and there is no general conversion between the two.
PPFD is Moles per square meter per second (Photosynthetic Photon Flux Density)
PAR is just Photosynthetic Active Band/Radiation
The easiest conversion between PPFD and PAR IMO is just multiply the PPFD by 400nm-700nm. Read the spectral chart of your bulb and take the average of all spectrum.
For example this XM-20K on a M59 Ballast [IMG]http://www.reeflightinginfo.arvixe.com/passed-link-id.php?x1=49&x2=17&x3=XM 400W 20000K SE 1&x4=Magnatek 400W (M59)&x5=N">http://www.reeflightinginfo.arvixe.com/passed-link-id.php?x1=49&x2=17&x3=XM 400W 20000K SE 1&x4=Magnatek 400W (M59)&x5=N</a>
This is far from being an exact science. See that most of the radiance is coming from the 440-460 range, and anything from 470-700 would average out with the 360-430, so you just multiply the PPDF by 450 to get your PAR.
