Ca reactor needle Valve issues

[bhodges82]

So my apex alerted me that the PH in my reactor was rising, I went down to check it out and saw that there were no bubbles no produced in the counter, I opened the valve a little and created bubbles, set it to air 1 bubble per second and thought all was fine, after the reactor satisfied the proper PH it turned on the solenoid, when it needed more co2 it opened the solenoid, no bubbles, again I adjusted and again the same thing. I think the valve is messed up, but not sure. I was told that I should run a lower related pressure than what I had the regulator set to, but I didn't change it, now I'm wondering if I messed it up.. Any ideas?

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[Adam]

I would try raising the pressure to 8-10psi. 1.5psi is nothing.

I'm not familiar with that regulator though. I went with a higher end one from a guy that builds them for planted tanks and I run it at 12ish psi.

 

[bhodges82]

I would try raising the pressure to 8-10psi. 1.5psi is nothing.

I'm not familiar with that regulator though. I went with a higher end one from a guy that builds them for planted tanks and I run it at 12ish psi.

Psi is the inner ring on the gauge. It's at 20, it's the Milwaukee regulator.

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[Adam]

It's hard to see in the pic and I'm on a PC now.

 

[Adam]

A Swagelok or Parker metering valve would fix it but you'd have to add a bubble counter somewhere.

Can that valve be disassembled? maybe try checking the o-rings and cleaning it.

 

[bhodges82]

I'll see about taking it apart when I get home. I was planning on doing that, you confirmed my thought. I also think that a lower regulated pressure would allow the valve to open more than it is currently so I'm going to do that too.

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[bhodges82]

Made adjustments and tested, seems to be working. If it fails again I'll disassemble it, it appears to have the ability to be taken apart.

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[bhodges82]

Starting to think the solenoid is no good, I noticed that the PH was lower than normal, checked the setup to find that co2 was flowing to reactor and the apex fusion was giving the off command, thought it may be the apex so I reprogrammed another outlet to only get the same result. The solenoid stays on when the off command is given, I can unplug the cord and the solenoid clicks off, I can plug it back in and it stays off until I give the command to be on, then same result. Any thoughts?

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[schwaggs]

I set my regulator to 20 psi. It does take some time to get the needle valve adjusted. I seem to have the same experience as you when first trying to adjust the bubble rate. I never close it and back it back off when trying to get it adjusted. I'll just open it a hair each time it slows down. Eventually, it stays consistent.

 

[bhodges82]

Just for clarification, I never close the valve off when adjusting, it's like it magically got turned closed. I just keep opening it more each time

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[Adam]

When I started doing my research before starting up a CARX I delved into all the issues that could arise. What I found was most problems tended to be with cheap regulators and components on the co2 side. While things like like the Carbon Doser are cheap price wise the components they used to make it are. I spent about the same as one of those and got a good quality dual stage regulator with a much better metering valve & solenoid. The cost was about the same as a Carbon Doser. My Geo reactor has a bubbler built in, so I didn't have to worry about that part.

I can't say for sure that's your issue but I can say if you're continuing to get gas passing the solenoid when it should be off, it's either not working or the internal seals could be bad.

 

[bhodges82]

I'm using the Milwaukee regulator, it was technically used when I got it, it looked brand new, didn't even have dust on it. My reactor also has a bubble counter on it.

Are there any "upgrade" components that can be changed out to make the regulator more reliable?

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[schwaggs]

Just for clarification, I never close the valve off when adjusting, it's like it magically got turned closed. I just keep opening it more each time

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Then keep opening is slightly more each time it stops and raise your regulated pressure to 20 psi. Eventually it will stabilize and you won't have to touch it until the tank is empty.

 

[Adam]

I'm using the Milwaukee regulator, it was technically used when I got it, it looked brand new, didn't even have dust on it. My reactor also has a bubble counter on it.

Are there any "upgrade" components that can be changed out to make the regulator more reliable?

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Since the reactor has a bubble counter you can put a new solenoid, manifold and metering valve on it. I don't know how good/bad the solenoid/manifold is, so it might be just fine. A better metering valve would be a good choice though. I listed 2 companies above. If you tell me what size fittings yours has, 1/8" or 1/4" I can get you some model numbers.

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[york1]

I just took a nice dual stage regulator with a dakota needle valve out of service. Had it running for the lats year no problems what so ever. If you are interested let me know

 

[Adam]

Here's mine. It has 1/8" swagelok B-SS2 metering and check valves. Parker solenoid and manifold.

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[bhodges82]

I'm running another test, did some reading about apex outlets not turning off, the theory is that the solenoid is a low all draw circuit and should be plugged in to #4 or #8 outlets since they have mechanical relays, I've done this and waiting to see what the results are. Hopefully this will work better for me.

Could you give me the names of the components used on your regulator so I can do some research please?

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[FutureInterest]

I use the aquarium plants carbon doser, it is rock solid. I do have something else I don't know the name of... if you want to try that one out. It might help your troubleshooting.

 

[Adam]

Which energy bar are you using? 4 & 8 outlets is for the EB8. The EB4 & EB832 are all mechanical relays.

 

[bhodges82]

Eb8 white lable

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