Cannot get rid of dinoflagette algae!!!!!!!!!

rostato

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I am in need of some serious help. My tank is now 2 months old and I still cannot get rid of this dinoflagette algae!

I had a huge outbreak about 3 weeks into the tanks life after the cycle (bought live rock from an old tank) and added 2 clowns and a clean up crew. I turned out the lights for 4 days and ran alot of carbon and changed it out everyday and the algae was gone. Oh, and I did 2 30% water changes.

Now the tank has been a month with out this algae except for 1 or 2 small spots here and there, but my mexican turbo would eat it every night.

The only other things I have added to the tank since are a 6 line wrasse, a few softies and a leather.

Today I came home and the algae is back. The 6 line has been in the tank for about 2 weeks now.

I cannot figure out why I have this algae problem.

Tank info
46G bow front
Current nove extreme pro 36" 6 bulb T5 light
RO/DI water 0 TDS
70 lbs of sand
70 lbs of live rock
15ish G sump/ fug with cheato algea
Aqua C Urchin skimmer with maxi jet 1200 (pulls out tons of poo)
mag 7 return pump
2 koralia 2's
still running carbon

Params
PH 8.1
sal 1.026
Ammonia 0
Nitirte 0
Nitrate 0
Phos 0
Cal 420
KH 8-9

I don't know why I am having this problem. I am also only running 2 of the T5 bulbs ( 1 10000K and 1 420MM) all day long since I don't have light needy corals yet.

I am really getting frustrated with this **** tank!!!!!!!!!!

Here are the best pics of the algae I could get
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I attached the same pics with the algae circled
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you need to boost your ph up to like 8.5-8.7 and do it quickly pm wbhowell he had it and got rid of it this way
 
Chillax man :). Your tank is only a few months old so algae cycles are to be expected. It looks a lil like dinos but its probably a mixture of diatoms or cyano. Dinos are a lot more insidious and invasive. Also if snails eat dinos they die... so in all likelihood its just cyano,diatoms, or both.

Anyways, just be patient and keep exporting nutrients. The nuisance algae will go away with good husbandry. I had diatoms for 6 months in the beginning. When when I changed my skimmer out a year ago I took all my rubble rock out killing all the sponges in my cryptic zone. So... I had another 3-4 months of diatoms. It frustrated the crap out of me back then too :). Its clear to me that you're on the right track and its looking remarkbly good for just 2 months.
 
The tank is very healthy except for this. I take back what I said about the snails eating it. The bubbles just go away at night and then come back about half way through the day cycle.

Won't raising the ph rapidly kill my serpant star and peppermint shrimps???
 
I'm going to have to disagree with Victor on this one - I wouldn't try increasing your pH unless you're really REALLY careful - that's dangerous and very easy to overshoot.

You may be caught in a vicious cycle - the algae dies, boosting nitrate / phosphate, which is consumed by new algae, etc. You may be best served by taking the rock out, scrubbing it down (in tank water in a bucket), and putting back in the tank. A pain, yes, but it should take care of it.
 
If the bubbles are disappearing readily at night.. then its clearly not dinos. Its just cyano which is easy to treat. Dino infestations are not very common and most reefers have yet to experience it.... thankfully as those that do often quit the hobby.

Victor is referring to the one of the few known methods of dealing with dinos, which you thankfully don't have to do.
 
OK, so how do I get rid of the algae then. I wouldnt care, but its getting caught in my leather and pissing it off. My zoas are also not very happy with the algae...

Could it be that some of my rock is very close to the top of the tank? There really is alot of rock work in this tank. Most of it is tonga branch so it takes up alot fo room per pound
 
Honestly, I had red slime in my refugium for time eternal and occasionally some in the display when I would feed a ton. Then I got an oversized skimmer for my setup and its all gone even in the low flow fuge and I've increased feeding dramatically as well. So like everyone always says, its just a nutrient issue. You need to increase your nutrient export and you should be fine.

In the alternative some have had luck with red slime remover but that's typically more of a band-aid...
 
<span style="font-family: Times New Roman;"><span style="font-size: 13px;">Phosphate reduction/ removal and high trates could be the answer. If you cannot get a fuge or sump (you can maybe make a "rubbermaid sump with chaeto in it for a few bucks) you can get a $35.00 hangon phosphate reactor for your tank and put some Phosar HC in there (or other). In the future, you'll most likely need a refugium with Macro algae. At first you’ll need to change your Iron based media in the phosphate reactor more often. Your media will get saturated in 2 weeks or so depending upon how much is bound up in your rocks, tank, algae, etc. Use less media, change every 2 weeks. Use a great test kit like DD Merck, Hack, Elos, or colormeter or send to AWT. If you already have a fuge & reactor, be aggressive & change the media every 2 weeks.</span></span>
<span style="font-family: Times New Roman;"><span style="font-size: 13px;"> </span></span>
<span style="font-family: Times New Roman;"><span style="font-size: 13px;">when you do your water change, take the end of the hose and suck all the algae down like a vaccum. It'll take a few water changes, but it works (especially after the phosphate remover kicks in)</span></span>
<span style="font-family: Times New Roman;"><span style="font-size: 13px;"> </span></span>
<span style="font-family: Times New Roman;"><span style="font-size: 13px;">You must export the same or more nutrients than you put in. Overfeeding, tap water, high phosphate foods, etc. Use a phosphate reactor with some phosar or ROWA or whatever, and something to lower nitrates like a fuge, AZNO3, or whatever. </span></span>
<span style="font-family: Times New Roman;"><span style="font-size: 13px;"> </span></span>
<span style="font-family: Times New Roman;"><span style="font-size: 13px;">check out:</span></span>
http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2006-09/rhf/index.php"><span style="font-family: Times New Roman;"><span style="font-size: 13px;"><span style="color: #0000ff;">http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2006-09/rhf/index.php</span></span></span></a>
<span style="font-family: Times New Roman;"><span style="font-size: 13px;"> </span></span>
[IMG]http://www.advancedaquarist.com/iss...st2003/chem.htm"><span style="font-family: Times New Roman;"><span style="font-size: 13px;"><span style="color: #0000ff;">http://www.advancedaquarist.com/iss...st2003/chem.htm</span></span></span></a>
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<span style="font-family: Times New Roman;"><span style="font-size: 13px;"> </span></span>
[IMG]http://www.reefkeeping.com/issues/2004-05/rhf/index.php"><span style="font-family: Times New Roman;"><span style="font-size: 13px;"><span style="color: #800080;">http://www.reefkeeping.com/issues/2004-05/rhf/index.php</span></span></span></a>
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[IMG]http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2005-05/eb/index.php"><span style="font-family: Times New Roman;"><span style="font-size: 13px;"><span style="color: #0000ff;">http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2005-05/eb/index.php</span></span></span></a>
<span style="font-family: Times New Roman;"><span style="font-size: 13px;"> </span></span>
[IMG]http://www.advancedaquarist.com/issues/august2003/chem.htm"><span style="font-family: Times New Roman;"><span style="font-size: 13px;"><span style="color: #0000ff;">http://www.advancedaquarist.com/issues/august2003/chem.htm</span></span></span></a>
<span style="font-family: Times New Roman;"><span style="font-size: 13px;"> </span></span>
<span style="font-family: Times New Roman;"><span style="font-size: 13px;"> </span></span>
<span style="font-family: Times New Roman;"><span style="font-size: 13px;">http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=1349443</span></span>
<span style="font-family: Times New Roman;"><span style="font-size: 13px;"> </span></span>
 
I forgot to mention I have a big chunk of cheato in my sump all ready.

So I should get a phosphate reactor then? I figured since I have a 0 reading with my API kit and some cheato that my phosphates would be fine.

Wrong assumption on my part?

I remember reading that even if I test 0 phosphates I could still have them because they are just getting consumed by the macroalgae before they show up. in high numbers.

Is my protein skimmer not big enough for a 50 -55ish gallon total volume system? (aqua C urchin with maxi jet 1200)
 
api can't measure phosphates in the lower range. Only DD Merck, HACH, & colormeter. Plus, it only measures what's in the water column, but phates are in your rock, sand, & algae. You need to have phosphates consistently below .03! If u are over that range, you have algae. A phosphate reactor will eventually remove your phates (depending upon how much is already bound up in your rock & stuff will determine how long), however, if u have stonies, you have to let your animals acclimate to the lower level of phates over months or they will RTN.
 
All I have is a finger leather, some zoas, some shrooms, xenia, and yellow polyps in there right now.

Where is the best place to get a phos reactor?
Will a maxijet 400 work good enough as a pump or do I need like a 900 or something?
 
First try the simple step of skimming wetter and feeding a lil less. If you can't solve your nutrient issue with that simple step then you can step it up a notch and get a better skimmer or go with phos.
 
OK, I will start doing some wetter skimming. I already don't feed much anyway. I always worry about starving my fish, but so far they are fine.

If that doesnt help I will get a phos reactor. I really don't want to replace a brand new skimmer...

Thanks for all the help
 
OK, I will start doing some wetter skimming. I already don't feed much anyway. I always worry about starving my fish, but so far they are fine.

If that doesnt help I will get a phos reactor. I really don't want to replace a brand new skimmer...

Thanks for all the help
 
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