Changing RODI filters

[chull13]

It is time to change my RODI filters. Are all filters the same size? I can't remember the brand of my unit.

 

[roland jacques]

Yeah, 99% of them use the same size, "standard" 12" size. they make bigger ones 18" and up ...

I'd sugest 1 micron sedament, and a 0.5 micron Clorine Guzler carbon block

 

[roland jacques]

The standard size is closer to 10 " not 12"

 

[cameron]

twopartsolution.com sells a variety pretty cheap. How many chambers does yours have?

 

[dkelly]

I've been happy with my purchases from The Filter Guys (

 

[buckeye field supply]

Nominal size for this hobby is the 10" x 2.5"

Its good idea to get a refillable DI cartridge as mentioned above, assuming you have a full-size, vertical DI stage.

If you can post a picture of your system I can help you figure out what filters you need.

Are you on well water? City water? If city water, do you have chloramines in the tap water?

Russ

 

[chull13]

http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?c=3578+4395+8111&pcatid=8111">http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?c=3578+4395+8111&pcatid=8111</a>

This is what mine looks like as far as chambers. It has 3 on the bottom and then the 3 top chambers.

 

[chull13]

I was wrong, it has 3 vertical chambers and then 2 horizontal chambers on top. 2 of the vertical chambers say "carbon" and one says "sediment". From the sediment chamber the water flows to a chamber that say "membrane" and then the final chamber says "RO membrane". Do I need to repalce every chamber? I don't have a TDS meter but I took a sample to the LFS and they said it was basically tap water. I need to order some right away because I need them for when I fill up my new tank next weekend.

 

[buckeye field supply]

Assuming you have an RODI and not an RO system, sounds like you have 3 vertical prefilter stages:
Stage 1: sediment filter
Stage 2: carbon
Stage 3: carbon

then water goes up above the bracket to
Stage 4: RO membrane, and
Stage 5: Horizontal DI stage

Looking through all your posts above, it sounds like you are not very familiar with your system. Without some additional information from you it is difficult to troubleshoot the system. If you'd like to give us a call we can do that.

Another approach would be to start over with 1) sanitizing the system, and then 2) installing all new filters.

If you do have a horizontal DI you'll want to reconfigure that. At a minimum positon the stage so that it is vertical with bottom up flow. Better yet would be to get a full size refillable vertical DI stage.

Under normal circumstances one good carbon block will be sufficient - you shouldn't need 2 carbon prefilters. With a little re-plumbing, you could turn your second carbon stage into a DI stage.

Russ

 

[roland jacques]

Some RODI have "mineralzer" to put minerals back into your drinking water. this should not be use with reef tank water. Make sure you dont have one of those. They will give high TDS readings

 

[chull13]

Roland Jacques;142537 wrote: Some RODI have "mineralzer" to put minerals back into your drinking water. this should not be use with reef tank water. Make sure you dont have one of those. They will give high TDS readings

Roland, you are right. The last stage is a polishing membrane. So I guess I have an RO system. Should have done more research before I bought it a few years ago.

Russ, can I not just replace the last horizontal filter (the polishing filter) with an inline DI filter or does the DI cartridge have to be vertical? If so I guess I can take your advice and replace the second carbon filter with a DI cartridge. Please Advise.

Thanks, Chris

 

[roland jacques]

Is this like the one you have?
http://cgi.ebay.com/New-Reef-6st-100GPD-Reverse-Osmosis-RO-DI-Water-Filters_W0QQitemZ110226806258QQihZ001QQcategoryZ20684QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem">http://cgi.ebay.com/New-Reef-6st-100GPD-Reverse-Osmosis-RO-DI-Water-Filters_W0QQitemZ110226806258QQihZ001QQcategoryZ20684QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem</a>

If so, you should just disconnect the last stage or it will give "false" high TDS readings. For reef tanks just bypass that last stage The DI has to be the last stage.

You can just reposition your horizontal DI to a vertical position

This is what Russ was Talking about as a separate vertical DI. they hold more DI than the smaller horizontal tubes. [IMG]http://www.buckeyefieldsupply.com/showproducts.asp?Category=39&Sub=127">http://www.buckeyefieldsupply.com/showproducts.asp?Category=39&Sub=127</a>

 

[chull13]

Here is a picture. I think I am just going to take off the last stage and buy an add on DI housing. Then just run the RO membrane outlet hose to the DI cartridge. Is that the best bet?
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class="gc-images" title="IMG_0526 web.JPG_Thumbnail1.jpg[/IMG] style="max-width:300px" /></a> </fieldset>

 

[roland jacques]

You're right you dont have a DI stage at all. I think your idea is perfect.

If you just remove your last stage You might find your TDS is very close to zero.

 

[chull13]

Thanks for your help. 2 more questions: Can I change the GPD RO membrane from 100 to 75 or do I need to stick with the 100GPD? Also is there anywhere in atlanta that I can get a DI housing add on kit and a new RO membrane? I want to avoid shipping as I want to add start adding water to my tank this weekend.

 

[roland jacques]

Not sure who has what locally for ROs. I'd start just calling Some LFS close to you. I think Capachino bay, Optimum aquarium & Marine fish are close to you.

You can change your membrane to a 75 GPD on your RO unit. You should change your External resistor at the same time to maintain the correct waste to pure water ratio when changing gpd membranes.

How much water do you plain on using monthly?

 

[chull13]

I will probably do a 15 gal water change every 2 weeks and I am planning on close to a gallon of evap per day. So somewhere around 60gal/mo.