Convert Rear RR overflows to Center Column

[kayakatl]

Ok, so here is the deal. I picked up a 156 RR standard dual back wall overflow tank from Tony last night. Amazing looking tank. My new fish room will allow me to place the tank in the center of the room viewable from all sides. I am planing on removing the dual rear overflows and converting them to a single center column. I will retain the existing drilled holes and run the plumbing in a V to the center of the tank to be covered later and be hidden. This will require 2 extra 90's per drain and return. Has anyone ever done this before? Any problems I might run into? I realize it make take some experimentation to get right but I know it "can" be done. Although my sketchup skills are crude, I will try to mock this up and post it if you are not following me.

Thanks guys!

 

[jmaneyapanda]

It all depends on how much flow through you are planning. Any idea on the return pump?

 

[kayakatl]

jmaneyapanda;552363 wrote: It all depends on how much flow through you are planning. Any idea on the return pump?

Not yet. I am planing to do a basement sump (fish room is on the split level so only 1/2 story down). Barracuda maybe? I suppose I would like 3-4x turnover per hour. Most likely 115-120 gal actually in display and 100 or so in the sump. I guess about 600 GPH or so. Will adding those 2 90's slow me down too much?

 

[gmpolan]

Just an FYI, I have the same tank and i run a blue line

 

[schwaggs]

So ~600 GPH flow, how big are the 2 return pipes?

 

[elfloyd]

Mark, I suggest using a larger pipe inside the tank then reducing when you get to your bulkheads. This should compensate for the extra 90's.

 

[brianjfinn]

This should be pretty neat. Following along.

 

[kayakatl]

I need to really sit and look at the tank, figure out sizes of my bulkheads. I brought it home, and it is still in the bed of my truck in the garage. I was thinking about going 1/2 larger till I get to the bulkheads my self, or using back to back 45's to make my 90's. I will have to check to see what size is in there now I THINK... not sure but think its 1.5" drains and 3/4 returns...

 

[schwaggs]

If you have 2 1.5" drains, you will have no problem flowing 600 gph even if you plumb it in circles.

Seriously, even if you have 1" bulkheads through the floor, if you plumb it with 1.5" pipe, you will have no problem flowing 600 gph.

 

[kayakatl]

Schwaggs;552379 wrote: If you have 2 1.5" drains, you will have no problem flowing 600 gph even if you plumb it in circles.

Seriously, even if you have 1" bulkheads through the floor, if you plumb it with 1.5" pipe, you will have no problem flowing 600 gph.

Good! I will probably design and build the stand for this 156 first and do the sump room along with it. Heck, I may do the 92 gal at the same time. I plan to plumb them together and who knows what other tanks in the future. I have no idea what pump I will end up with, but I will plan on over sizing it beyond the turnover rate needed for at least those 2 tanks. Is it sad I get my jollies from thinking about building all this stuff DIY??? I can't wait to start on all of this. I think i will use euro pallets for my sump room tables. We have over 500 out back of my work with nowhere to go. Anyone have use for some? PM me and ill give you the address in alpharetta to come grab as many as you would like. They are EURO PALLETS, not 4'x4' but 31"x47.25".

 

[gmpolan]

FYI as well, you might want to take the measurements of the tank bc i know oceanic made a 150 as well as a 156. If they are 60 x 24 x 24 like the add stated then its a 150. I only note for determination of equipment although i doubt it will have a huge impact.

 

[jmaneyapanda]

Schwaggs;552379 wrote: If you have 2 1.5" drains, you will have no problem flowing 600 gph even if you plumb it in circles.

Seriously, even if you have 1" bulkheads through the floor, if you plumb it with 1.5" pipe, you will have no problem flowing 600 gph.

agreed. The only concern with hard 90's is if something calcareous gets in there (ie- a snail, etc). Make sure you safeguard your standpipes.

 

[hackman72]

Just asking but why not take the time it have it drilled in the center. It's already been drilled so I speak under the assumption that it would be safe to do so. This would save heat, power consumption and initial pump cost. Plus, like Jeremy said, if you get something in the pipe, it'll be a chore to get out.

 

[fish scales2]

Hackman72;552579 wrote: Just asking but why not take the time it have it drilled in the center. It's already been drilled so I speak under the assumption that it would be safe to do so. This would save heat, power consumption and initial pump cost. Plus, like Jeremy said, if you get something in the pipe, it'll be a chore to get out.

+1 BUT sometimes the bottoms are drilled and then tempered so look for markings. When you drop into a basement for a sump you may have to add several 90s to avoid serious gurgeling.

 

[rbredding]

Schwaggs;552379 wrote: If you have 2 1.5" drains, you will have no problem flowing 600 gph even if you plumb it in circles.

Seriously, even if you have 1" bulkheads through the floor, if you plumb it with 1.5" pipe, you will have no problem flowing 600 gph.

that's correct, but flow through the pipe won't be the issue.. it will be the weir effect created at the top of the pipe...

best way around it is to increase the surface area at the drain as much as possible.. you'll probably never hit the "design volume" through even a single 1" drain, however, you would flood the tank due to the fact that the water has to fight it's own surface tension in order to get into the drain (then fall away)

 

[kayakatl]

The drains are Durso style. Still a ton to work out in this little plan. Good point about safeguarding against rogue snails. I think Oceanic does temper post drilling. I had heard that a few places, but no real confirmation as of yet. I will get drain guards, always a good idea. Noise and gurgling I will have to troubleshoot when I have the tank set up. Heck, I still have to finish painting the fish room before Sat. Thanks for the input so far. Any other issues you can think of?

 

[schwaggs]

No reason you can't set it up and fill with fresh water to test your setup. I did that with mine and ran it for a week to ensure I didn't have any leaks before draining and filling with RODI water and adding salt. Fresh water does act somewhat differently than salt water but it will be close enough to prove out your design.

 

[kayakatl]

Straight from Oceanic's website.

Is the glass in my aquarium tempered?

The bottom pane of glass on all Oceanic tanks (drilled or not) is tempered except for the Ultimate series and custom drilled tanks. The sides, fronts, and backs are not tempered. Please keep in mind that any drilling of the tank or alteration from its original manufactured state will void the warranty.

So no re-drilling the bottom.

 

[kayakatl]

Schwaggs;552746 wrote: No reason you can't set it up and fill with fresh water to test your setup. I did that with mine and ran it for a week to ensure I didn't have any leaks before draining and filling with RODI water and adding salt. Fresh water does act somewhat differently than salt water but it will be close enough to prove out your design.

This is true... Once I get a stand built and tank on it i should just take the waste water from my RODI and run a line to the tank. Might as well do something with it! I need to get a 250 gal steel cage tank for that waste water, start watering my lawn/ garden with it.

 

[schwaggs]

kayakATL;552750 wrote: Might as well do something with it! I need to get a 250 gal steel cage tank for that waste water, start watering my lawn/ garden with it.

I run mine into the back yard and let it run out on the ground. I figure that is slightly better than running it down the drain!