Converting non-dimmable MM box to dimmable

kirkwood

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Has anyone done this?

I can control PWM through my Reefangel controller so I feel like all I need to do is swap out the drivers. Was looking at Meanwell drivers on RapidLED but couldn't figure out what I need.
 
I've never seen the guts of one of these units, but I am guessing the easiest approach would be to buy external drivers and bypass the old driver.

I would assume that the old drivers are some sort of integrated pcb. Maybe it is possible to find replacement parts, have you tried ebay?
 
JBDreefs;912984 wrote: I've never seen the guts of one of these units, but I am guessing the easiest approach would be to buy external drivers and bypass the old driver.

I would assume that the old drivers are some sort of integrated pcb. Maybe it is possible to find
replacement parts, have you tried ebay?


the insides are nothing too crazy.. LEDs on a board, 2 drivers, and 2 fans.
 
So there is no separate ac to dc converter? Have a picture that you can post?

I am working on a design that utilizes drivers that need a dc voltage supply. The drivers are pretty small and I bet they would fit somehow. But if you have to add an ac to dc converter also, you are looking at more work.

Are you looking for a quick and easy fix?
 
The first thing you need to figure out is the max wattage each driver is currently supporting. The unit probably has 3 watt leds. Count the number of led in series and you'll come up with a total wattage needed. A Meanwell ELN will work. They support PWM. The Apex only support 0-10vand not PWM. The Meanwell ELN supports 24-48V DC Voltage (runs ~8-14 LEDs) @0 ~ 1.3A current range.

Here's the spec's.

a>
 
Reefkeeper;913043 wrote: The first thing you need to figure out is the max wattage each driver is currently supporting. The unit probably has 3 watt leds. Count the number of led in series and you'll come up with a total wattage needed. A Meanwell ELN will work. They support PWM. The Apex only support 0-10vand not PWM. The Meanwell ELN supports 24-48V DC Voltage (runs ~8-14 LEDs) @0 ~ 1.3A current range.

Here's the spec's.

http://www.meanwell.com/search/eln-60/default.htm">http://www.meanwell.com/search/eln-60/default.htm</a>[/QUOTE]

I saw this diagram that shows how manufacturers get more chips on each driver.
[IMG]http://reefledlights.com/wiring-diagrams/">http://reefledlights.com/wiring-diagrams/</a>

The MM boxes are 55x3w so each driver is pushing 27/28 chips.

Edit: [QUOTE=][B]JBDreefs;913031 wrote:[/B] So there is no separate ac to dc converter? Have a picture that you can post?

I am working on a design that utilizes drivers that need a dc voltage supply. The drivers are pretty small and I bet they would fit somehow. But if you have to add an ac to dc converter also, you are looking at more work.

Are you looking for a quick and easy fix?[/QUOTE]

I don't know about the ac/dc converter. I didn't look that closely at the components. I'm not exactly looking for a quick fix just to see if it is doable.
 
I would say it is possible, and in many ways. It is going to come down to your time commitment and money. The quickest and easiest way, IMHO, would be to buy the appropriate driver (like a ready to go meanwell from rapidled, etc) and directly connect it to your led strings, bypassing all of the guts of the fixture.

Kirkwood;913047 wrote: I saw this diagram that shows how manufacturers get more chips on each driver.
http://reefledlights.com/wiring-diagrams/">http://reefledlights.com/wiring-diagrams/</a>

The MM boxes are 55x3w so each driver is pushing 27/28 chips.

Edit:

I don't know about the ac/dc converter. I didn't look that closely at the components. I'm not exactly looking for a quick fix just to see if it is doable.[/QUOTE]
 
On my MM I just checked the output one of the power supplys and it is 108vdc. My other channel power supply is down. As posted before one is 80-100vdc and the other 55-90vdc
I thought I posted the voltage value on the other threads. These are plain old switching power supplies with adjustable output voltages 75-85 watts using a trim pot. The LEDs are in series On two channels.
I'm sure these power supplies are floating out there. I'm still refining my eBay search key words.
Tthese are lot of LEDs in a row needing a high vdc. Dang Near line Voltage. I'm going thru my Tao box now. they are the same.,exept I couldn't find a trim pot. Two channels in a long series chain. 26 at 91vdc and 29 at 106 vdc. It cheaper run and build using higher voltage and low current instead of low voltage high current. Less copper , smaller components, and more efficient.
 
Adam, I have my MM and TAO torn apart for viewing pleasure, stop by and look a these. put your hands on them. thats why I bought them. i know somebody here has sourced (and posted ) the power supplies.
 
have you had any luck on dimmable drivers? I found a enough, just not the 25 dollar ones. The MM appears to be 60 w 55-100 vdc 630ma. I have a contact on the exact looking unit from ebay. they sent me troubleshooting pdf. No word on sending me a driver.I not how much better or worse a 700ma would be. . 70w 85-108vdc 700ma seem to be real common.
 
darrrenjmartin;916371 wrote: have you had any luck on dimmable drivers? I found a enough, just not the 25 dollar ones. The MM appears to be 60 w 55-100 vdc 630ma. I have a contact on the exact looking unit from ebay. they sent me troubleshooting pdf. No word on sending me a driver.I not how much better or worse a 700ma would be. . 70w 85-108vdc 700ma seem to be real common.

after I saw my PAR reading right where I wanted them, I stopped worrying about making the LEDs dimmable... I think it was more important to make the units full spectrum than dimmable...
 
I'm more concerned on sourcing economical parts and not waiting for something to fail. I can always buy bulbs. MM and The 120 tao's have a different combo white/ blue. the tao's drivers are non adjustable. If i buy something I would like to get a dimmable even if i dont use it.
 
I can't speak for pulse width modulation,as I am a fan of it, but as far as a good and reliable power supply, I am using a 15.5amp computer power supply. I just gutted all the junk I wasn't going to use.

Edit: ^ and also added a 7.5amp fuse before my controller and drivers. Plus if I want to build another led setup I have way more than enough reserve power to push it and other DC items.

Edit: ^ I am NOT a fan of pwm.
 
Cosigner;919292 wrote: I can't speak for pulse width modulation,as I am a fan of it, but as far as a good and reliable power supply, I am using a 15.5amp computer power supply. I just gutted all the junk I wasn't going to use.

Edit: ^ and also added a 7.5amp fuse before my controller and drivers. Plus if I want to build another led setup I have way more than enough reserve power to push it and other DC items.

Edit: ^ I am NOT a fan of pwm.

Why aren't you a fan of PWM?
 
In my opinion (to my eyes) adjusting leds via voltage adjustment gives a much smoother look. I know that dimming via pulse width is supposed to happen too quickly for our eyes to notice, but mine are sensitive to it.

For instance... take a pwm driven led and shine it at full power on a cooling fan that is on. Now start dimming the led. You'll notice that the fan visually starts to slow down. A led that is voltage adjustable will not do that. Try it...
 
Kirkwood;916373 wrote: after I saw my PAR reading right where I wanted them, I stopped worrying about making the LEDs dimmable... I think it was more important to make the units full spectrum than dimmable...

You made the MM units full spectrum?
 
atcaw94;924855 wrote: You made the MM units full spectrum?

Yes. Just needed some thermal paste, solder, soldering iron, and some new LEDs of various wavelengths.. I added 420nm, 480nm, 660nm, and warm white.
 
Can you PM me the details? Number of each LED, and where you placed them? And where you got the LEDs? Did you do 90 degree optics?
I have the tools.
Thanks
DJ
 
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