cooking rock = high phos

sailfish

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I have had some live rock cooking for a few months. About a month ago I decide to test the water for phosphate. It was.20 AHHHH. With a hanna meter.

I have tried changing the water weekly for about a month to no avail.

It's about time to setup the tank and I have separated out some of the rock that has phosphates of only .11 vs the other has .22.

Question am I screwed and I have to buy new rock or will this rock stop leaching phosphates once it is expose to light or something

I really don't want to have to buy 60lbs worth of rock or take the chance of setting up the tank and have a Phosphate problem. The rock was purchased from a store I have no idea were they got it.

The rock is for a 156 gal sps tank.

Thank Joe
 
Have you tried dosing any vodka? Its my understanding that it will reduce nitrates and phosphates. Also have you tried running a gfo reactor in the bin?
 
thats why people typically cook rock for several months....3+. There is a lot of life in and on rocks. It should def let up, but only weekly water changes and time will tell on that.
 
Just keep cooking it until there is no more sludge in the bottom of that garbage can.
 
use a reactor or cannister filter with a crap-load of GFO from bulfreefsupply. quickest way I would imagine without using things that could be too evasive.
 
Thanks guys I have had some for at least 3 months some is more recent. The more recent is the stuff with les phos.

I tried running gfo and it would not work or did not last very long. like days.
I was useing some diff brand of phos remover though.

.2 is a lot for an sps tank when it should be.03 or less.

It sounds like i have no choice but to wait it out. What triggers rock to quite dumping and start taking stuff back in?

I am and will keep doing almost daily water changes but it a pian in the _ _ _.

Thanks Joe
 
go out and get some phos guard. That stuff works really well
 
with phos levels that high, GFO will only last a few days. You'll have to change it out every few days until your numbers drop-you should be able to monitor when it's exhausted via the hanna.
 
I did have an aqua c remora. on a 55 gal brute.

I have separated the rock into two smaller containers that are easier to manage.

I was hoping to setup my tank in the next couple weeks but something will have to give.

At this point I may have to buy some more and sell this later. I hooked up the phos reactor again tonight on the one with the better rock.

I guess i will keep changing out the water on the other rock. Because that works better and faster.

Thanks Joe
 
That's a shame, but Joe, if you do sell the rock later let me know, I'm pretty sure I'm gonna be doing a 120 in the basement.
 
You need a ton of flow and a really aggressive skimmer. That alone will work wonders.

I've also heard that offerings</em> work (like the old pagan rituals). Offerings</em> can be in the form of coral frags and may be given to the offering administrator for your area; I believe his name is Raj :D
 
I would think you really need to get a big skimmer on that plus some GFO. I've got almost a bucket of GFO from Bulkreefsupply if you need a lot.

Was the rock new or used or a little of both?
 
I had a mag 7 and a maxjet 1200 in a 55 gal brute.

I now have my new skimmer I can use I guess.

I will take you up on that Doug. I filled an entire 2 little fishes reactor with media tonight.

I have done this before it will drop for a day or three then its back were it was. I am hoping its the media i have and it just sucks.

I don't know if it was new or not i bought it from a store.

Thanks everyone

Joe
 
GFO has to be kept in an airtight container, otherwise it'll lose it efficiency. You may have some bumb GFO.

p.s. Doug urinated in that bucket of GFO.
 
can some one explain cooking your live rock and how its done?
 
Don't do it. lol

I did not do it on purpose I just bought live rock in perperation for my up coming tank build. Too far ahead of time and it started doing it on it's own.

Joe
 
I had 0 algae after following these directions.

Here is the process.

The purpose of "cooking" your rocks is to have the bacteria consume all (or as much) organic material and PO4 stored on, and in, the rock as possible.
The first step to this is commitment.
You have to be willing to remove your rock from the tank.
It doesn't have to be all at once, but I feel if you are going to do this do it all. In stages if that is easier but make sure that all of it gets done.
The new environment you are creating for your rock is to take it from an algal driven to a bacterial driven system.
In order to do this, the rock needs to be in total darkness to retard and eventually kill the algae's on the rock and to give the bacteria time to do the job.
So basically you need tubs to hold the rock.
Equipment needed.
1. Dedication.
2. Tubs to cook rock in. And an equal amount of tubs to hold the rock during waterchanges.
3. A few powerheads.
4. Plenty of buckets.
5. A smug feeling of superiority that you are taking it to "the next level."
6. Saltwater, enough made up to follow the instructions below and to replenish your tank after removing rocks.

Here are the steps:
1. Get into your head and accept the fact you will be making lots of salt water if you aren't lucky enough to have access to filtered NSW.
2. Explain to significant other what is going on so they don't flip out. This process can take up to 2 months. Prepare them in advance so he/she can mark it on the calendar and that they won't nag about it until that date arrives.
3. Setup a tub(s) where the rock is to be cooked. Garages are great for this.
4. Make up enough water to fill tub(s) about halfway and around 5-7 buckets about 60% full.
5. Remove all the rock you want to cook at this stage. (The rock can be removed piece by piece until you are done.) I suggest shutting off the circulation beforehand to minimize dust storms.
6. Take the first piece of rock and dunk it, swish it, very, very well in the first bucket. Then do it again in the 2nd bucket, then the third.
7. Place rock in the tub.
8. Repeat steps 6 & 7 to every piece of rock you want to cook at this time. The reason I suggested 5-7 buckets of water will be evident quickly...as the water quickly turns brown.
9. Place powerhead(s) in the tub and plug in. Position at least one powerhead so that it agitates the surface of the water pretty well. This is to keep the water oxygenated. You can use an air pump for additional oxygenation if you wish. Only one powerhead per tub is needed. Remember the powerheads main responsibility is the oxygenation of the water.
10. Cover the tub. Remember, we want TOTAL darkness.
11. Empty out buckets, restart circulation on main tank.
12. Wait.
13. During the first couple of weeks it is recommended to do a swishing and dunking of the rocks twice a week.
What this entails is to make up enough water to fill up those buckets and the tub the rock is in.
First, lay out your empty tub(s) and fill buckets the same as before.
Then, uncover tub with the rock in it. Take a rock and swish it in the tub it's in to knock any easy to get off junk.
Then, swish it thru the 3 buckets again, and place in the empty tub..
Repeat for all your rocks.
Then empty the tub that all the rocks were cooking in, take it outside and rinse it out with a hose.
Place tub back where it was, fill with new saltwater, add rocks and powerheads, and cover.
Wait again until the next water change.
You will be utterly amazed at how much sand, silt, detritus is at the bottom of the tub and every bucket. It is amazing.
At times the stench was so strong I gagged.

How it works:
Some FAQ's.
When re-introducing the rock to my tank, a month or two from now, should I do that in parts to help minimize any cycling effect(s)...if there are any?
I never have. Really after a very short while, the ammonium cycle has been established. That's not what you're worry about though, it's the stored phosphates and that you have to wait it out.
When they are producing very little detritus - you'll know - then I would use them all at once.
Would running Carbon filtration and/or a PO4 reducing media help/hurry/hinder the process?
I wouldn't fool with it. You don't want the detritus to sit there long enough to rot, release water soluble P again. You want to take it out while it's still locked up in that bacterial detritus.
I would say that 85% of my exposed rock had Bryopsis (hair algae) covering it.
There isn't a single visible strand on any rocks my tank now.
Remember, the key is patience. Let this process run its course.
And a few last minute tidbits I remembered.
Your coralline will die back, recede etc.
My thoughts on this are GREAT!
Now my rock is more porous for additional pods, mysids, worms etc.
Coralline will grow back.
Throughout this process the sponges, and pods on my rock have not died off.
Every time I do a water change they are there and plentiful.
 
You're going to need a fortune in GFO to reduce that amount of inorganic phosphates. GFO is better suited as a phosphate polisher than a bulk phosphate remover.

I agree with jade and recommend that you begin dosing sugar. It is the most effective and efficient way to cook rocks.

The problem you're seeing is that many of the organics have decayed into inorganic phosphates. The skimmer cannot remove inorganic phosphates so the only way to remove it is to change the water or use GFO. Changing water over and over again will work as will dumping in tons of GFO. Keep in mind though that you will have do a lot of this and it takes money and more importantly time to keep doing this... Also, inorganic phosphates can be absorbed by CaCo3 rock and sand so the rock in the tub will no doubt have absorbed some of the inorganic phosphates and will leech it into the water for quite some time.

As such, the cheapest method and arguably the more effecient methadology is to take full advatange of your skimmer. By dosing a sugar source you are empowering the bacteria to uptake the inorganic phosphate and binding it to organics that are skimmable. In essence, you will be removing the phosphates with a skimmer that would otherwise be unskimmable. That's a good thing especially if you slap a larger skimmer on there.

In the alternative, if time is an issue... do all 3 things: dose sugar, change the water frequently, and run GFO. You should get it under control quickly.
 
Im gonna play the devils advocate, and say dont chase numbers. Judging from the pics of your tank, I dont think you have a problem, despite what the meters say. The only time I have had a seriosu problems, wwas when I "decided" I had a problem, and started chasing figures. Crash-ola. I wont do that anymore. I can, will, and do measure elvels, but I dont go nuts trying to reach any "fabled" numbers.
 
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