cycling /test kits question

saltyvixen

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So this question might be more related to cycling. But during cycling are ap liquid tests good eenough. And can you cycle without live rock or sand. I'm starting fresh as possible with dry sand and rock, don't have the rock yet. I have cyano issues in current tank and I don't want it to transfer.
 
I never trusted the AP ammonia test - it will register 0.25 on the ammonia scale, often when no ammonia is present.

You can cycle without live sand or live rock but you'll need something to start the cycle, such as a (dead) shrimp (from the grocery store) or some fish food to be placed in the tank to rot. I'd recommend some Seachem Stability to introduce beneficial bacteria.

If you plan to use live rock, you might as well add that at the beginning or you may end up extending the cycle time if you add it after the fact, especially if it is uncured rock.

Jenn
 
Thanks Jenn, but I won't use any live rock all dry lol

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Fair enough. That doesn't eliminate the potential for cyano, BTW.

Without any natural biological to start with, it will be important to take your time with the cycle as it will take longer doing it the way I mentioned. You'll also want to stock the tank extra-slowly as well.
 
Well in that case would it be OK to seed a cup ODM two sand from current tank, take filter floss from tank, or matrix and add it to new system. Cyano is my only issue.

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Not sure what ODM means. Anything you move from the tank with cyano, to the new tank, can bring cyano into the new tank.

It's still possible to have cyano occur in the new tank without any cross-contamination - but I wouldn't invite trouble.

Have you figured out the cause of the problematic cyano in the other tank? Most people experience it sooner or later. It's a very old life form so if Mother Nature hasn't eliminated it, we won't but we can at least keep it under control in most circumstances.

Jenn
 
Meant of lol and my phosphates are at .25 even after large water changes, I can't knock it down

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API test kit for Phosphate?

Using any sort of phosphate adsorption media, like Phosguard?
 
Something is off, cyano is taking over, hair algae is popping up, and diatoms are flourishing

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Let's start at the beginning on that tank - size, age, inhabitants, water changes, feeding etc.

API tests are crap, but algae and cyano tells me something IS going on there. What are other parameters? (API or whatever LOL). Ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, pH, alk and SG... I'm not as worried about CA and MG at the moment.

How much water do you change and how often?

While using a phosphate reducer may help, the other part of the equation is where the food for the algae and cyano is coming from.

Jenn
 
14 biocube
This particular system is only 3-4 Monrhs but rock and sand are over a year . I had downgraded. 2 small clowns and a small dottyback, a few hermits I usually do 3g a week. Feed spectrum one pellets and mysis on occasion, last WC was 6 g . Test are as follows
Ph 8.3
Alk 6
Sg 1.025
Phosphates 0.25
And I don't have the others


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Nitrate could be the missing piece of the puzzle. Both phosphate and nitrate can feed algae and cyano.

Do you vacuum the substrate? How deep is the substrate?

Do you feed daily? More than once, or ?

What filter media do you use? Mechanical, chemical?

Jenn
 
No to vacuuming the sand, not enough space. Its only an inch probably. Daily feeding once a day. I use carbon, purigen , matrix and floss

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In addition to checking the nitrate, I'd suggest vacuuming the substrate. You can get small siphon tubes - Python makes 2 models that are suitable for small tanks. You'd be surprised how much junk accumulates in the sand. Gravity makes poop fall to the sand. Yes, some of it gets broken down by tank fauna, but like the book says, "Everybody poops". Without a manual export, that may be part of what is contributing to the issues.

Once you know what the nitrate is, that may tell the tale as well. I'd also check the phosphate with a more reliable test, and if it is indeed present in that concentration, you might want to add some Phosguard to your filter to help pull it out.

Small daily feedings are OK provided you aren't getting a build up of nitrate. Until you know where you stand with that, it's just an educated guess that it along with phosphate, are your likely causes.

Jenn
 
You can buy it in a 100 ml bag (or bulk by the jar and re-use your own bag). Put it in the chamber where you would put carbon or Purigen.
 
Oh and at $20 or more a test there has to be a better option I need 6 tests

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billyOcean;944235 wrote: haha...from one parent to another!

I think my kids were potty trained before that book was written :lol:
Edit: OK maybe not... published in 1978 - I'm not *that* old...
 
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