Dan's 180 SLOW Build

[saltwaterwannabe]

The 180 I picked up is drilled for a double closed loop system. I do not really have a space behind the dt location for plumbing and such behind it since this will be on an outside wall. Should I just silicone a plate of glass over the holes or use bulkheads with caps?....or punt and look at the closed loop a little harder?

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[grouper therapy]

I am a big fan of closed loops but with the more reasonable priced powerheads available now I would have to revisit them. Closed loops with the new dc pumps on them might be pretty nice perhaps coupled with powerheads. If it was drilled for them then I would use it. But PLEASE use qaulity bulkheads.

 

[grouper therapy]

ghbrewer;1076693 wrote: Just so we are clear, Grouper and I were discussing the return line that will come from the pump and supply water to the tank (at least that is what I thought we were discussing).

I would go ahead and go with 1.5" for the drain lines. 1" would work, but 1.5" gives you more capacity.

In regards to the whole "10x turnover rule", I don't buy into that. I try to achieve between 2-3x turnover in my systems, and 5-6x on the high end. I think that skimmers, socks, filter media, etc... all benefit from a slower flow rate in the sump. This also allows larger particles in the water column to settle out in the sump so it is easier to vacuum out.

Also, IMO, you should totally negate any flow from your sump when calculating turnover in the display.

Just my thoughts.

That's right and I did it in case of snails and fish that just pass right on to the sump.

 

[saltwaterwannabe]

grouper therapy;1076695 wrote: That's a good point. Never thought about sediment.

Sounds like i will be much lower than 10x. With the sunp room, I am really not limited with fiture upgrades, frag tanks, etc....(ezcept the green stuff from my wallet) so I am just trying to make sure I do not underbuild on the supply and return.

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[saltwaterwannabe]

Thanks for the input. Now to finish the washroom relocation and move to the next steps

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[saltwaterwannabe]

Oh...one last one for now...can a closed loop rum to the distant sump room or shoyld it stay under the dt?

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[grouper therapy]

Grant and I are saying go big as you can route with the pipe that way it will never limit you. If I had the space I would run 2" on both and nevr worry about it.
almost easier ,one set of fittings Difference in cost is minute.

 

[grouper therapy]

SaltWaterWannabe;1076701 wrote: Oh...one last one for now...can a closed loop rum to the distant sump room or shoyld it stay under the dt?

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under the dt in this case but a closed loop has no head pressure from lift so it could got to the sump but that would be two more runs of pipe.

 

[saltwaterwannabe]

I need to buy quite a few bulkheads. Where do I find good pricing on decent sch 80 bulkheads?

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[grouper therapy]

https://flexpvc.com/cart/agora.cgi?product=Bulkhead-Fittings-Polypropylene">https://flexpvc.com/cart/agora.cgi?product=Bulkhead-Fittings-Polypropylene</a>

I personally like these heavy duty tank fittings with reversible threads better than schedule 80 bulkheads and are way less money. I used these type of fittings on the farm I grew up on and ever in aquaculture systems we had. Never had one fail!!! You can also purchase them at Tractor supply. Of course you will have to verify hole sizes needed since your system is already drilled.

 

[lsu_fishfan]

Check coralvue website, reef octopus makes some good ones. I have a link posted in my 250 build thread

 

[saltwaterwannabe]

Coralview looks good for the closed loop option. I do not want to risk a leak with that much water over the bulkhead. I may go with lesser ones for the sump, water change tank, etc... .http://www.coralvue.com/schedule-80-bulkhead-slip-to-slip">http://www.coralvue.com/schedule-80-bulkhead-slip-to-slip</a>. These appear to actually use a slightly smaller hole than most sch 80 bulkheads.

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[grouper therapy]

LSU_fishFan;1077548 wrote: Check coralvue website, reef octopus makes some good ones. I have a link posted in my 250 build thread

Those coravue do you look like qaulity ones.

 

[ghbrewer]

Whatever you decide to do, be sure to use union fittings before and after bends and/or transitions. You will appreciate them GREATLY in cases where you might have to disconnect the plumbing in case of leaks or needed maintenance, upgrades, add-ons, etc... Just be sure that you orient them the proper way in order to get a good seal and for easier assembly(male threaded end down and female coupler end on top).

 

[saltwaterwannabe]

I am planning to use flex pvc as much as possible for noise reduction and to lessen head losses in the stand. Planning unions on each end of assemblies with shutoff valves on the tank side so that I can remove all pipe or reconfiguration or replacement without moving equipment.

I am putting together a parts list to plan out my purchases. It will be a couple months before everything is ready to actually begin setup since I still have structural, electrical, and plumbing work to do...after finishing the washroom relocation. Before I start building the stand, I plan to post detailed drawings of the full setup for input.

All of this starts making me think about punting with a 120 since the construction woukd be drastically reduced, but the end result will be a lot better looking with more visibility after finishing all this work.


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[saltwaterwannabe]

This build is not moving forward. The thread can be closed.

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