Did I kill my chiller?

haninja

haninja

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I had a power outage last night that caused my return pump (which also feeds the chiller) to freeze. While trying to make it work, I cut the flow to the chiller. When I put everything back together I forgot to turn the flow back to the chiller. I woke up this morning and realize that. .. The chiller must ave kicked on for a few hours without flow in it. I turned the flow back on but nothing is coming out... did the water left inside the chiller froze? what do I do?
 
Where does the probe sit for the chiller temp? If inside the chiller you should be safe - if in the tank there is a good chance the chiller froze over and busted a pipe.
Watch it while it thaws for leaks...
 
The chiller has thawed and stopped dripping. I turn the water flow back on, got a few more drips and now it seems to stop. Now the question is, it was dripping from somewhere... it couldn't have fixed itself right? where was it dripping from and how did it stop now?
 
I'm with Robb on this one. Copper with swell and condense based on temp so a small crack may seal itself enough to become a very slow drip. Over time, you'll still get water from it. Even if it is a coil crack, an HVAC guy could probably fix it fairly easily.
 
Hanin, I'd put a tray under the chiller for now for any remaining drips, and just monitor the chiller. That saltiness could be coming from spray that got on the chiller over time. Your chiller is under light pressure, so I don't think any actual leaks would self seal.

I guarantee you if your chiller coil is cracked (refrigerant line) your chiller will not work (cool). That will be self-evident in a while. If water continues to drip off the chiller without stopping, then the piping in the chiller is cracked and needs fixed or you need a new chiller.

If neither of these is happening then you are fine.
 
I hadn't read any of this before I came over yesterday, i could have looked at it (I heard you say you needed to check the chiller, but wasn't sure what you were talking about)

I'm with dave, saltiness of the condensate is probably from the spray/salt laden air in your fish room...

the copper lines probably wouldn't have busted it would have been the pvc that moves the salt water through the chiller..

with things like this.. after they thaw out, if they run properly, they're probably ok (no lasting damage)


on a side note.. is there a way to program the RK that you've got so that if the pump isn't moving water, then the chiller cuts off.. (maybe a "high water alarm" that is triggered when the overflows drain back into the sum, similar to when the pumps are off)
 
Well, it's been 24 hours and the chiller is working and not dripping. I think I'm in the clear for now. Programming the controller is not a bad idea. I don't think they make a flow 'detector' module but it's worth looking.
 
I haven't seen one.. I assume you'd have to figure out a way to do it with float switches.. (maybe install one in an overflow.. that would be the only place you could set it up and it would work every time). If you put it in the sump, then when you would have to set your topoff water to keep the sump at EXACLTY "X" volume.. otherwise, it may not trigger if your sump was "low" to start off with when the pump stopped moving water....





incidentally, why didn't your barracuda start back up when the power cameback on..
 
I have no idea... I started taking disconnecting the rest of the pluming with the intent of trying to reach into the output and give it a little push. At some point I thought I would give it another try and it started right up...
 
haninja;553423 wrote: I don't think they make a flow 'detector' module but it's worth looking.
Click to expand...


Sure they do, from this thread: http://www.atlantareefclub.org/forums/showthread.php?t=1153">http://www.atlantareefclub.org/forums/showthread.php?t=1153</a>

This site sells them for $75 to $100 each.
[IMG]http://www.flowdetector.com/">http://www.flowdetector.com/</a>

I use the built in thermostat that came with my chiller as a safety. If the temp gets to 75, it cuts off power to the chiller.
 
And here as well
a>
 
haninja;553468 wrote: I have no idea... I started taking disconnecting the rest of the pluming with the intent of trying to reach into the output and give it a little push. At some point I thought I would give it another try and it started right up...
Click to expand...
The bearings and seal may need replacing. If it ever happens again there should be a screw driver slot on the dry end of the motor that you can use to kick start it.
 
Thanks grouper. I'll look for that slot.
As far as the flow detector, I was referring to the posibility of connecting one of those to the aquacontroller. But I guess you don't have to really, just connect the chiller to it...
 
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