DIY 60 gallon reef

jbdreefs

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Well, after thinking I had a leak when my salinity levels were swinging (ended up being the storage temperature of my refractometer), I actually wound up with a leaky aquarium. At first, it was a very slow leak; then, my wife called me this past Thursday to say, "John, the aquarium if 1/4th of the way empty and the floor is soaked." Bummer. After some research, I determined that the big leak came from my sump. One of the seams busted. At the end of the day, I had an aquarium with a slow leak and a sump with a big leak.

Thankfully, I had already started building a new aquarium. It is 48 x 18 x 16H and about 60 gallons. It has a single center overflow with two 1.5" drains.

Here is the before shot:
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I already had a 1/4" thick sheet of black acrylic that I have been hoarding for sometime now. I made a trip to Calsak Plastics in Lawrenceville to pickup a sheet of 1/4" clear acrylic.

I debated upon what the necessary thickness of the acrylic should be. I read several rules of thumbs on various websites, but ultimately, I decided that 1/4" would be fine because of the many fish store displays that I saw using 1/4" material. I've been shopping at some of these stores for years now, and I have never noticed a significant problem.

While still nervous about the material I'll be using and my still wet carpet, I took extra precautions:

1) I "caulked" all of the inside seams with a mixture of Weldon 4 and shavings of acrylic. I suspect this is how they make the Weldon 16 version. I could add more solvent to get a thinner mixture, and I played with it until it was just about right (about the consistency of elmers glue. One I had the mixture ready and all of the acrylic had melted, I used a syringe to apply the mixtures to all of the seams.

2) I went a step further and did a lamination on the outside seams on both ends of the tank. This probably wasn't necessary, but I did it anyway. It almost looks like a picture frame because I used half inch strips of 1/8" acrylic that I also had on hand.

Here I am welding the first two pieces together:

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By the time I had the first 5 sides welded and curing for 24 hours, I received the phone call from my wife about the leak. In a state of emergency, I came up with this:

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It is two 27 gallon "heavy duty" totes from Home Depot @ $10 a piece. I threw together that little stand which is made from scrap wood that I had in my workshop.

Here is the finished product. I think it came out pretty nice. I definitely have room for improvement. I made one boo-boo with the router when cutting the access port for the overflow. I started my cut on the wrong reference line. Such is life, I patch it with some spare acrylic and everything is fine, but not as pretty as I had hoped.

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Lastly, here is the water testing. It's been full of water for about 20 hours now.

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Now, I have a question:

I'm preparing to put everything back together now, but I am concerned about my sand. I didn't transfer my sand to the temporary holding tank. It has been sitting in a little water in the old aquarium fallow for a few days. Should I avoid using the old sand? I'm scared that it has become toxic with decaying microscopic life. However, isn't this how "live" sand is transported? It just a bag full of sand with a little water. Your opinions are valued. I'm prepared to go bare bottom for now.
 
Some people are probaly going to say that you an use your old sand but it would probaly be best to just go out and by more "live sand".

Edit: Oh and nice job on the tank.
 
in my opinion, i dont think you should use your old sand, i would just buy dry sand wash it out and sead it with some live sand and over time wahla all of your sand will be alive
 
looks sharp..ive been wanting to try building my own tank..how was the overall process in difficulty?did you get a shop to make all the cuts?or did you do them yourself?
 
Is it cost effective to build your own ? I wanted to try it but figured it would be twice the money in the long run accounting for mistakes and leaks I may have lol.


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Materials will run you about 50% of the cost new IME. It is only cost effective if you have the tools.

Without a good tablesaw and router table I wouldnt advise it.
 
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