Although it probably isn't very common, it is possible to overload the DC8 on your aquacontroller which may result in permanent damage to the circuitry inside. This can be caused by using a device that draws too many amps, or possibly by an accidental circuit overload/falure. In any case the DC8 must be replaced or repaired, but in some cases it may be possible to fix it yourself. In this post I will attempt to explain how I repaired mine.
Now let me set forth a disclaimer. This is not for the novice. I assume anyone attempting this at least has some small degree of electronics theory and knowledge on using various electronic repair tools such as a soldering iron and multimeter. I have a small deal of experience with electronics, and I found this project just a little challenging, but primarily because of the difficulty of disassembly, not because of advanced circuit design. And of course, I assume no resopnsibility for your attempts to replicate this procedure.
One thing to note is that these instructions cover a very specific repair to the DC8, which coincidentally is probably one of the most common falures. This is the the triac. The triac works similarly to a relay, simply receiving a signal and in turn switching it's associated outlet on and off. You will need to be slightly familiar with triacs to complete this repair, but they are really simple devices, so a google search and a little reading will probably suffice. The symptoms my DC8 exhibited (due to failed triacs) was a constant "on" state for the particular outlet. It would not turn off under any circumstance.
To begin with, we will need to remove the DC8 for repair, unplugging it and removing the back cover with the exposed screws. The DC8 does not have any significant capacitance circuits, so no discharging should be necessary. I would also remove the ground wire which ties the cover to the unit so it isn't in the way.
Next, it would be wise to check the fuse. Obviously if you had some power on the unit, the fuse is good, but if the entire unit was dead, checking it would be the first step. It is difficult to access the fuse from the top of the circuit card, so the easiest thing is to check it from the back leads (labeled #1 in the first pic). A continuity test of 0 ohms is good.
Next we can test the triacs to ensure they are indeed good/bad. They're are 8 of them, and are labeled #2 on the first pic.
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To test the triacs, we need to do another continuity test on the leads of the triac. The triac has 3 leads, T1, T2, and a gate. Which is which doesn't really matter for our purposes. It should read as follows:
A1 to A2 : In the mega-ohms (most of mine read about 10 Mohms)
A2 to A3 : In the mega-ohms, similarly to A1/A3.
A1 to A3 : About 60 ohms. It may vary by ten or so.
Any shorts probably indicate a bad triac. An open may be ok, but adjust the resolution of the meter to measure in the K or Mohms, and it will probably pick up some kind of reading other than 'open lead'.
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So now we should know if we have a bad triac, and if so, we need some new ones. We need the right ones, so contacting Neptune for replacements might be a good idea. I purchased mine from Mouser, and http://www.jameco.com/Jameco/Products/ProdDS/1385037.pdf">here is a link </a>to the datasheet of the particular one I used. Ideally, the current, voltage, and gate specs should match.
Now to remove the Triacs, we have to desolder the outlets form the circuit card, one by one. They are 8 outlets, each with 5 solder points (2 N, 2 L, 1 G). I indicated them in the picture below. A solder wicking or sucking device is helpful.
[IMG]http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y30/corvettecris/DIY%20DC8%20Repair/DSC_1000-1.jpg alt="" />
Now gently pull off the card. It might take a little persuasion. If it isnt budging, be sure you removed all the screws holding it down.
Here are the triacs, attached to their heat sink
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Now it is as simple as removing the old ones and installing the new ones.
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Although it is by no means necessary, I installed an externally accessed fuse (from Radio Shack) so I could more easily replaces the fuse in the future. This also allows me to use easier-to-find AGV fuses instead of those pesky little ones Neptune used. I just ran leads to the old fuse holder and soldered them in.
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Once the new triacs are in, it is a good idea to run the continuity test again to be sure you didnt miss anything. Also, before re-solderign the outlets, be sure to thoroughly inspect everthing for any excess solder, goofs, or boo boos. THEN, run continuity tests from ground to leg, ground to neutral, and neutral to leg on all the outlet solder points, and from the fuse points to ground. We are looking for any accidental shorts that could damage the circuit when we power it back on. Also check that the Leg or neutral is not grounded to the heat sink, as mine was. Oops.
Now carefully reassemble the card, and solder the outlets back in.
Once it is completely reassembled, I would run one last continuity test on the outlets. Again check from ground to leg, ground to neutral, and neutral to leg. there should be NO shorts.
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Now we are ready to power it up. Do it without attaching it to the controller just yet. It shouldnt explode, and the little green light should come on. All is good.
Now, we can attach it to the controller via the phone cord. I manually turned off all of the programs so that all outlets would read 0 V first. Check them all for about 0 VAC. Mine actually read about 7 VAC, but meh.
Now manually turn them all on, and check again for 120 VAC. Good to go.
If this worked, you are a genious. Pat yourself on the back and tell all your friends, as they will undoubtebly pat you on the back as well while offering to purchase you wings and beer.
<span style="font-size: 11px;">*Thanks to Chris "Mojo" for our help, an obviously any corrections, additions, or sebtractions you feel necessary to this post.</span>
Now let me set forth a disclaimer. This is not for the novice. I assume anyone attempting this at least has some small degree of electronics theory and knowledge on using various electronic repair tools such as a soldering iron and multimeter. I have a small deal of experience with electronics, and I found this project just a little challenging, but primarily because of the difficulty of disassembly, not because of advanced circuit design. And of course, I assume no resopnsibility for your attempts to replicate this procedure.
One thing to note is that these instructions cover a very specific repair to the DC8, which coincidentally is probably one of the most common falures. This is the the triac. The triac works similarly to a relay, simply receiving a signal and in turn switching it's associated outlet on and off. You will need to be slightly familiar with triacs to complete this repair, but they are really simple devices, so a google search and a little reading will probably suffice. The symptoms my DC8 exhibited (due to failed triacs) was a constant "on" state for the particular outlet. It would not turn off under any circumstance.
To begin with, we will need to remove the DC8 for repair, unplugging it and removing the back cover with the exposed screws. The DC8 does not have any significant capacitance circuits, so no discharging should be necessary. I would also remove the ground wire which ties the cover to the unit so it isn't in the way.
Next, it would be wise to check the fuse. Obviously if you had some power on the unit, the fuse is good, but if the entire unit was dead, checking it would be the first step. It is difficult to access the fuse from the top of the circuit card, so the easiest thing is to check it from the back leads (labeled #1 in the first pic). A continuity test of 0 ohms is good.
Next we can test the triacs to ensure they are indeed good/bad. They're are 8 of them, and are labeled #2 on the first pic.
To test the triacs, we need to do another continuity test on the leads of the triac. The triac has 3 leads, T1, T2, and a gate. Which is which doesn't really matter for our purposes. It should read as follows:
A1 to A2 : In the mega-ohms (most of mine read about 10 Mohms)
A2 to A3 : In the mega-ohms, similarly to A1/A3.
A1 to A3 : About 60 ohms. It may vary by ten or so.
Any shorts probably indicate a bad triac. An open may be ok, but adjust the resolution of the meter to measure in the K or Mohms, and it will probably pick up some kind of reading other than 'open lead'.
So now we should know if we have a bad triac, and if so, we need some new ones. We need the right ones, so contacting Neptune for replacements might be a good idea. I purchased mine from Mouser, and http://www.jameco.com/Jameco/Products/ProdDS/1385037.pdf">here is a link </a>to the datasheet of the particular one I used. Ideally, the current, voltage, and gate specs should match.
Now to remove the Triacs, we have to desolder the outlets form the circuit card, one by one. They are 8 outlets, each with 5 solder points (2 N, 2 L, 1 G). I indicated them in the picture below. A solder wicking or sucking device is helpful.
[IMG]http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y30/corvettecris/DIY%20DC8%20Repair/DSC_1000-1.jpg alt="" />
Now gently pull off the card. It might take a little persuasion. If it isnt budging, be sure you removed all the screws holding it down.
Here are the triacs, attached to their heat sink
Now it is as simple as removing the old ones and installing the new ones.
Although it is by no means necessary, I installed an externally accessed fuse (from Radio Shack) so I could more easily replaces the fuse in the future. This also allows me to use easier-to-find AGV fuses instead of those pesky little ones Neptune used. I just ran leads to the old fuse holder and soldered them in.
Once the new triacs are in, it is a good idea to run the continuity test again to be sure you didnt miss anything. Also, before re-solderign the outlets, be sure to thoroughly inspect everthing for any excess solder, goofs, or boo boos. THEN, run continuity tests from ground to leg, ground to neutral, and neutral to leg on all the outlet solder points, and from the fuse points to ground. We are looking for any accidental shorts that could damage the circuit when we power it back on. Also check that the Leg or neutral is not grounded to the heat sink, as mine was. Oops.
Now carefully reassemble the card, and solder the outlets back in.
Once it is completely reassembled, I would run one last continuity test on the outlets. Again check from ground to leg, ground to neutral, and neutral to leg. there should be NO shorts.
Now we are ready to power it up. Do it without attaching it to the controller just yet. It shouldnt explode, and the little green light should come on. All is good.
Now, we can attach it to the controller via the phone cord. I manually turned off all of the programs so that all outlets would read 0 V first. Check them all for about 0 VAC. Mine actually read about 7 VAC, but meh.
Now manually turn them all on, and check again for 120 VAC. Good to go.
If this worked, you are a genious. Pat yourself on the back and tell all your friends, as they will undoubtebly pat you on the back as well while offering to purchase you wings and beer.
<span style="font-size: 11px;">*Thanks to Chris "Mojo" for our help, an obviously any corrections, additions, or sebtractions you feel necessary to this post.</span>
