k...here goes..(its gonna be a long post)..
this continues on from my previous post about making a probe holder/switch holder. http://www.atlantareefclub.org/forums/showthread.php?t=3838">http://www.atlantareefclub.org/forums/showthread.php?t=3838</a>
so my problems are 1.) a fluctuating ph and 2.) regulating my ro/di filter so that it shuts off after filling my water reserve..
THINGS NEEDED....
1.) I found this site to buy solenoids and float switches from a previous post over on reef central..
[IMG]http://www.mcmaster.com">http://www.mcmaster.com</a>.. i ordered 3 of these solenoids part #7877K5 price #22.56. (2 of these solenoids are 120v and one is a 12v) and a float switch part #46515K41 price $15.17.
2.)4 float switches from ebay at $5 a piece.
3.)I purchased a radio shack project box part #270-1809 price $6.99
[IMG]http://www.hifi-remote.com/hack/rs.shtml?27-1803">http://www.hifi-remote.com/hack/rs.shtml?27-1803</a>
4.) 2 extension cords
5.) speaker or equivalent wire
6.) 4 1/4 male speed fit adapters form home depot part #pl-3004. found in the plumbing aisle
7.)teflon tape
8.)12 volt led
9.) 12 volt adaptor
how its done,,,,,,
first get your 1/4 speed fittings and wrap some teflon tape around them and screw into the solenoid.
[IMG]http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p218/jaiminandnish/DSC00101.jpg alt="" />
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and wallah
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then wire up your float switches in SERIES. ie one lead from one switch attaches to the lead from the next. And attach the speaker wire to the 2 ends that remain. this will act as the extension wire to the solenoid unit. (note only 1 set of switches in below picture you will do this twice for the second set)
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then you get the project box and route out a hole in its lid for all 3 solenoids to screw in. and at the same time you route out a small hole at the bottom of the box for all the wires to enter and leave. also drill 2 small holes in the back of the box so you can mount the unit with screws.
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the almost finished face...
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then drill a small hole in the face for a LED next to the 12v solenoid.
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cut the ends of both extension wires....note caution!!
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insert the 2 extension wires and speaker wires from float valves through the hole in the bottom of the box and attach as follows...
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note the above diagram shows how to attach for 1 system from the float valves in SERIES. you will do this twice for the two sets of float valves for both 110v solenoids. for the third soleniod (12 volts) you do the same except you add the 12 volt led light in series also. I wanted to add the led so that i knew when my ro/di unit was on (making water).
this diagram might make things easier...
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this is what you get once you solder all the wires. i used heat shrink to cover the joints and then covered with electrical tape just to be sure
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I mounted the unit with screws into the holes i made in the back of the box. Then i closed the cover. I drilled a hole in my water reserve container for the new float switch and screwed it in, followed by silicone application around the edges.
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the float switch and probe holder in the sump....
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i attached all the ro/di tubing as needed.NOTE - there is an IN side and OUT side to the solenoid. attach all the plugs into the right sockets in my aquacontroller..and program it to turn on the right solenoid according to the ph. AND FINALLY THE FINISHED PRODUCT !!!!!!!!!!!!
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DISCLAIMER- im not responsible in any way for any injury of any type that occurs to anyone following my actions or directions in the above thread..do so at your own risk....
sorry had to throw that in there... i've been electricuted twice in the past...once with a faulty power head, and once more seriously with a faulty plug on a clothes dryer...(it hurt like h*ll)...
so i hope i gave you guys out there some hope in designing your own system, any questions ????
this continues on from my previous post about making a probe holder/switch holder. http://www.atlantareefclub.org/forums/showthread.php?t=3838">http://www.atlantareefclub.org/forums/showthread.php?t=3838</a>
so my problems are 1.) a fluctuating ph and 2.) regulating my ro/di filter so that it shuts off after filling my water reserve..
THINGS NEEDED....
1.) I found this site to buy solenoids and float switches from a previous post over on reef central..
[IMG]http://www.mcmaster.com">http://www.mcmaster.com</a>.. i ordered 3 of these solenoids part #7877K5 price #22.56. (2 of these solenoids are 120v and one is a 12v) and a float switch part #46515K41 price $15.17.
2.)4 float switches from ebay at $5 a piece.
3.)I purchased a radio shack project box part #270-1809 price $6.99
[IMG]http://www.hifi-remote.com/hack/rs.shtml?27-1803">http://www.hifi-remote.com/hack/rs.shtml?27-1803</a>
4.) 2 extension cords
5.) speaker or equivalent wire
6.) 4 1/4 male speed fit adapters form home depot part #pl-3004. found in the plumbing aisle
7.)teflon tape
8.)12 volt led
9.) 12 volt adaptor
how its done,,,,,,
first get your 1/4 speed fittings and wrap some teflon tape around them and screw into the solenoid.
[IMG]http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p218/jaiminandnish/DSC00101.jpg alt="" />
and wallah
then wire up your float switches in SERIES. ie one lead from one switch attaches to the lead from the next. And attach the speaker wire to the 2 ends that remain. this will act as the extension wire to the solenoid unit. (note only 1 set of switches in below picture you will do this twice for the second set)
then you get the project box and route out a hole in its lid for all 3 solenoids to screw in. and at the same time you route out a small hole at the bottom of the box for all the wires to enter and leave. also drill 2 small holes in the back of the box so you can mount the unit with screws.
the almost finished face...
then drill a small hole in the face for a LED next to the 12v solenoid.
cut the ends of both extension wires....note caution!!
insert the 2 extension wires and speaker wires from float valves through the hole in the bottom of the box and attach as follows...
note the above diagram shows how to attach for 1 system from the float valves in SERIES. you will do this twice for the two sets of float valves for both 110v solenoids. for the third soleniod (12 volts) you do the same except you add the 12 volt led light in series also. I wanted to add the led so that i knew when my ro/di unit was on (making water).
this diagram might make things easier...
this is what you get once you solder all the wires. i used heat shrink to cover the joints and then covered with electrical tape just to be sure
I mounted the unit with screws into the holes i made in the back of the box. Then i closed the cover. I drilled a hole in my water reserve container for the new float switch and screwed it in, followed by silicone application around the edges.
the float switch and probe holder in the sump....
i attached all the ro/di tubing as needed.NOTE - there is an IN side and OUT side to the solenoid. attach all the plugs into the right sockets in my aquacontroller..and program it to turn on the right solenoid according to the ph. AND FINALLY THE FINISHED PRODUCT !!!!!!!!!!!!
DISCLAIMER- im not responsible in any way for any injury of any type that occurs to anyone following my actions or directions in the above thread..do so at your own risk....
sorry had to throw that in there... i've been electricuted twice in the past...once with a faulty power head, and once more seriously with a faulty plug on a clothes dryer...(it hurt like h*ll)...
so i hope i gave you guys out there some hope in designing your own system, any questions ????
- wow man, nice work.
