DIY overflow silencer

gclackum

Active Member
Supporting
Messages
444
Reaction score
127
I've got a 125 with overflows in both back corners. There is about 6" of one inch pvc coming up through each sides bulkhead. So water is dropping about 12". I was wanting to silence the overflows. It was recommended that I use a Durso to do this. Looked on line and it is recommended that 1.25 pipe be used in. 1" bulkhead. I'm not interested in changing the current 1" by 6" pipe currently installed at the bulkhead. Can I just set it up with a 1" Durso. Any other suggestions?
 
Ok. This is times two. One in each overflow in the two back corners of the tank. The photo should rotate clockwise. Not sure why it attached on its side
<fieldset class="gc-fieldset">
<legend> Attached files </legend>
fieldset>
 
Ok. So I'm assuming that the long tube is the return and the short tube is the supply. If that's correct, how does the short tube connect to the bulkhead? I will also presume it's just pressure fit in (know as slip). If that is correct, this is an easy fix. You want the actual corner overflow kit. Does your tank only have one overflow? If so, I have the kit. What it does is converts the 1" bulkhead to a 1.5 (or 1.25...can't remember which) tube with a durso top. Almost every major manufacture uses this set up. I have one available, brand new in the package if you need it.
 
I can connect another piece of pvc with connector to it to make it longer, problem solve
 
What size is the pvc? Pvc connector to same size pvc goes to a t then to a 90 deg. May want to cap the the top with a hole drill. Text me 404-421-4670. I will send some pics. Real easy to do
 
Yeah I say either get a kit as mentioned above.

Or just get a longer piece of PVC for the drain... is there a reason you are wanting to leave the drain pipe only 6" tall? Even if you put a Durso style cap on that 6" drain pipe your water will still be falling 12" and splashing around making noise. The kits come with drain pipe that is adjustable in height... but most people keep them only a couple of inches below the overflow grates to minimize the distance the water drops down in the overflow.

Jakub
 
I made it using 1" pic and a street 90 attached to a capped T with a hole. The water level went high by about 2". Figured I had done something wrong.
 
Jakub
I am raising the height. The problem I had was the overflow completely filled up.
 
There's nothing wrong with the overflow filling up - that is what reduces the amount of drop and thus reduces the noise.

Jenn
 
JennM;1066550 wrote: There's nothing wrong with the overflow filling up - that is what reduces the amount of drop and thus reduces the noise.

Jenn

+1 You want the overflow to fill up most of the way. Just as Jenn mentioned that is the main way you will quiet down the splashing noise from the water. As I mentioned above most people have the drain pipe tall enough to be an inch or 2 below the drain grates... so really like 2 inches below the top of the tank. You won't "overflow" the tank if that is what you are worried about. As long as your main return pump isn't too strong for your drains to handle you will never have that issue... which I'm assuming it's not because you would of seen the problem even with your old 6" drain pipe set up.

Jakub
 
Even if it goes over the Durso I read it was suppose to be at midpoint of T
 
gclackum;1066563 wrote: Even if it goes over the Durso I read it was suppose to be at midpoint of T

It should be around there. Are you making sure to step up to a 1.25" pipe from the 1" bulkhead? Most traditional overflow kits use a step up to a 1.25" pipe. This helps make sure the drain can keep up. Sometimes you can get lucky and just go straight 1"... but usually we find it needs the larger pipe. And if you do go with just straight 1" sometimes it takes time for the water levels to adjusts... few mins to a few hours... but if that is the case it will happen every time you turn your system off.

Here is a picture that does a good job showing generally how everything should be...

p_18699_26528V_zpsl2pkytrb.jpg
alt="" /></a>

Jakub
 
What Jakub describes above is exactly it. I have one kit with is the supply side (the one with the Durso top) and the return (the one with the lockline at the end).
 
You guys solved the problem apparently the one inch was restricting the water flow, it might have balanced eventually, however I built the Durso using 1 1/4" with an adapter to the existing 1", overflows filled right to the mid point of the T and the noise went away.
Thanks for your help :)
 
Jeff thanks for the offer of the kit, would have simplified things, but I'm in Covington
 
Back
Top