Does anyone use eBay LEDs with any success?

w_hartyjr

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Like the title says.if so what wattage and spectrum. Dimmable or not?
I would love to run LEDs but the price for good ones is out of the question right now. I am ready to buy new bulbs for my current set up and just checking all options. Thanks again for your help with this dilemma .
 
BigChiquita;887630 wrote: I have had bad experience with eBay/ I use Amazon and amazon prime with free two day shipping and great deals. IMO

Have you purchase LEDs from amazon
 
I have the black box 120W leds. People around here call them Member modified LEDs. They will keep everything alive but you won't get crazy growth out of them. Also I have had zero heat issues. If you do get them I would suggest getting dimmable versions because they are powerful. If you have any questions your more then welcome to Pm me.
 
I have MM from Ebay, shipped from China, Black box, 120watt, white and blues, Dimmable, this light output great shimmering effect on my corals, I have notice lots of growth on mushrooms, zoas and paly's, I had some sps before and all I could notice was nice polyp extension after I sold them out, overall I'm happy for what I had expend on this light and is been giving me around 8 months of service. Of course took some time to arrive from overseas but it arrives nicely packed and had no problem with it since. If I had the chance to choose from Led's again I will jump on Reefbredders Brand, they have optics, controllers, and all the range in colors to order custom to you. Even so I have no bad experience with this light, I' very happy with it.
 
Any one else. What's the big difference from "reefbreeders" vs the. Higher end led fixtures?os it the optics or the drivers them selves? Lighting hadls been such an issue in this hobby sibce I started 10 years ago,then all the hype was still over halides
 
My buddy has a nice Reefbuilders unit and I think fit is just as good if not better than any high end ficture out there. All your paying for is the brand name in the high end units. The full spectrum Reefbuilders with the controller can do everything the high end units can do.
 
I agree with everything said above. I haven't exactly set up my taotronics blue/white dimmable 120w fixture, but I bought them because I was able to see the exact fixture work well over an extended period of time over Jimmy's tank.

If I was going to buy a new fixture (rather than saving $ and going used) I would go with reefbreeders. You can go full spectrum, and customize your unit. I have seen them in action too.
 
I've noticed on eBay that they have full spectrum led units at just 25-35 dollars more per unit than the blues and whites. They are using bridgelux bulbs which is 3 watts per bulb and rather than 120 optics like on the blues and whites they have 90 degree optics. I would like to see these in use...

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BrandonMason;888015 wrote: I've noticed on eBay that they have full spectrum led units at just 25-35 dollars more per unit than the blues and whites. They are using bridgelux bulbs which is 3 watts per bulb and rather than 120 optics like on the blues and whites they have 90 degree optics. I would like to see these in use...

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I was noticing the same things
Is any one close to Covington that uses any of the LEDs mentioned above. That wouldn't mind showing them off to me in person.

Edit:
Curtismaximus;887962 wrote: My buddy has a nice Reefbuilders unit and I think fit is just as good if not better than any high end ficture out there. All your paying for is the brand name in the high end units. The full spectrum Reefbuilders with the controller can do everything the high end units can do.

Thanks for all the info
 
I have a standardslight fixture hqi halides and actinics.
It seems until a LED manufactures tune to the exact spectrum and intensity and spread of sunlight, when then say full spectrum , not so much. LED and optics are advance enough to simulate sunlight.
It is jus t,recently that 405-465nm. Are being incorporated. The reds are easy. Blue led light has always lagged.
I can plot sunlight spectrum and copy or tune an LED fixture easily with the right equipment.
It's the optics that are crap. Hotspots ' really! We have been focusing light since 1608 with telescope.
 
darrrenjmartin;888039 wrote: I have a standardslight fixture hqi halides and actinics.
It seems until a LED manufactures tune to the exact spectrum and intensity and spread of sunlight, when then say full spectrum , not so much. LED and optics are advance enough to simulate sunlight.
It is jus t,recently that 405-465nm. Are being incorporated. The reds are easy. Blue led light has always lagged.
I can plot sunlight spectrum and copy or tune an LED fixture easily with the right equipment.
It's the optics that are crap. Hotspots ' really! We have been focusing light since 1608 with telescope.


Optics are poor on the on the black box led systems, I removed mine and the light mixture was a lot better, color was more white as well, I like it a lot more without the optics
 
How important are the uv bulbs. Which optics are better the 120 or the 90. It would seem to me that the 90's would be more concentrated but may have more " hot spots". Is this true or not?
 
I have TaoTronics from eBay and have had zero issues with them. They are 141w 1:1 white/blue non-dimmable. They have 90 degree optics and do a great job in getting light to the bottom of the tank. You can always customize the optics such as 90 around the outside edge and 120 on the interior lights.
 
w_hartyjr;888584 wrote: How important are the uv bulbs. Which optics are better the 120 or the 90. It would seem to me that the 90's would be more concentrated but may have more " hot spots". Is this true or not?

I have read many post from people saying the UV bulbs go out within a few weeks. I would waste my time with them. If you tank is less than 24" don't worry about the optics.
 
http://hyperphysics.phy-astr.gsu.edu/hbase/biology/ligabs.html">http://hyperphysics.phy-astr.gsu.edu/hbase/biology/ligabs.html</a>
What UV bulbs are you referring too?
I'm trying to get a hold of the semantics.
UV is officially non visible and below 400nm. Non photosynthetic.
From the diagram, look at the absorption peaks, actinic light starts at 430nm chlorophyll A.
But 405nm has the most efficiency meaning it makes the most sugars per lumun when and if absorbed.
Are these the bulbs you are referring too?
I'm wondering why manufactures are not promoting and advacating this part of spectrum.
Maybe is is a longevity / heat dissapation issue.
 
darrrenjmartin;888657 wrote:

I'm wondering why manufactures are not promoting and advacating this part of spectrum.
Maybe is is a longevity / heat dissapation issue.

Longevity for sure. I think it adds significant cost to a fixture as well.
 
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