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acroholic

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Guys,
I may be upgrading to a 1 HP chiller in the near future. It is in an unfinished area of my basement. I have a 40 amp, 3 wire 220 volt power supply in the area that is left over from a kitchen remodel that used to power a Jen-Air cooktop, but became unnecessary when I switched to a gas stove.

Can this be wired into a subpanel and can I get a couple 20 amp 110 volt circuits out of it? I plan on either going with a 110 volt 1+ HP chiller or doing a 220 volt version and using this power source directly.

Thanks.
Dave
 
it's been a minute with my electrical knowlege & code, but the short answer is yes.

I don't know code enough to know if you could separate the 2 hots into 2 circuits, but you can at least get 1, 110 or 1, 220. (of course, it could be done, but within' code? not sure).
ask rockdog
 
I just went downstairs and opened the box where the wire is enclosed. It is a three wire, one is red, one is white and one is black.
 
you should'nt have any problems w/ installing a sub panel on those wires. there should be two hot wires going to the breaker w/a ground.BUT if we are going to use 110 v chiller you are going to have to rewire the panel and install a single pole breaker because of the of a neutral your going to have to use for the chiller, unless you go with a 220v chiller.
 
Is there a bare wire or a group of loose bare strands for a ground? If so and the wires are #8 (Min. should be on a 40A breaker.) then there is no problems at all with putting in a subpanel. You can just put up a 60A subpanel with 6or 12 circuits. The subpanel would be 40A so that would be your total available load.

Jason
 
Rockdog;620311 wrote: Is there a bare wire or a group of loose bare strands for a ground? If so and the wires are #8 (Min. should be on a 40A breaker.) then there is no problems at all with putting in a subpanel. You can just put up a 60A subpanel with 6or 12 circuits. The subpanel would be 40A so that would be your total available load.

Jason

No ground wires at all, just a red/white/black. I read on the net that this is an older type wiring code and it has been switched to a 4 wire requirement since 2008. Wiring is from 1980 when the house was built.
 
Rockdog is the man for that. I bet he cod wire whatever you needed and probably do it for frags!
 
tgriffin;620314 wrote: Rockdog is the man for that. I bet he cod wire whatever you needed and probably do it for frags!

I just sent him a PM Tyson!
 
Acroholic;620278 wrote: Guys,
I may be upgrading to a 1 HP chiller in the near future.

Can you not just rewire the condenser motor for 220v and use the existing electrical provisions? Typically motors of that size can be wired either 110/220, but come pre-wired 110.

Dustin
 
Dave,
I am also a licensed electrical contractor and could help you out too. Let me know if you need some help if you don't find anything else. Anything could work with what you have. Just a matter of making the necessary adjustments for what you need. Would be happy to come by and let you know.

Thanks,
Sia
 
can i add a subpanel
YES - you're issue will be finding a subpanel that is both small and will accept the 220... (most small panels like the one I installed in my build thread only accept 110 feeders)


you can always run an additional ground wire for the panel (it will have to be grounded anyway) to your copper plumbing pipes (I believe you said you had copper)...
 
I consulted with a licensed electrician, and he did not believe me that the unused 240 volt wire from the panel to the cooktop did not have a ground wire on it. It is an 8/3 wire, 8 gauge and three wires with no ground. This had powered an all electric Jen-Air Cook top that was installed in 1980. It became useless after we remodeled the kitchen a few years ago and went to all gas. The red and black wire were connected to the double breaker on the panel, and the white wire was connected to the bus bar. I believe code changed in the 1990s that specified a 4 wire over this 3 wire (additional ground wire).

I was told per current code I had to have a ground wire run from the main panel to any subpanel I would install, and per code I could not just connect to a water pipe, which I would not want to do anyways. So as that stood, I was looking at hiring someone to either run a ground or replace the wire of the old 8/3 wire, and that would involve cutting drywall, etc.

I had also decided in the meantime that I was only going to go with a 1 HP chiller, so the need for a 240 volt source disappeared, but I still needed a dedicated 20 amp circuit. So what the Electrician suggested was that I convert the 8/3 wired double breaker to a standard 120 breaker at the panel, and use the red wire as the ground, and then just wire in regular Nomex from a junction box to the new receptacle.

So I used the existing box where I had the 8/3 wire capped off in the basement, and wired Nomex to the 8/3, taped the red wire ends with green electrical tape to signify it being the ground, and ran the new wire and installed the new receptacle for the chiller. Then at the main panel, I removed the double breaker, connected the new 20 amp 120 volt breaker to the black wire, and connected the neutral (white) and the now green wrapped red wire (neutral) to the bus bar. I also capped off the empty slot in the panel where the other half of the old double breaker used to be.

I confirmed the wiring was correct at the receptacle, and so now I am all set with a dedicated 20 amp circuit for when my new 1 HP chiller gets here. I didn't have to have any new wiring run, and I was able to re-use old wiring without tearing up the drywall around the panel.
 
You did exactly what I would have suggested had I known you were going 1hp only.
A+ for you and good work!!

Jason
 
Rockdog;621305 wrote: You did exactly what I would have suggested had I known you were going 1hp only.
A+ for you and good work!!

Jason

I really appreciate your and everyone else's help on this. Glad it is done!
 
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