Enough Ozone?

mojo

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Note: I'm creating this thread so that the original discussion is out of the For Sale forum. http://www.atlantareefclub.org/forums/showthread.php?t=5283">Original thread here</a>.



May I ask why you're upgrading? I have a 100mg for my 360g system and never run it over 25%.....
 
I cant seem to get over 350-375orp and was told it was too small and I needed a 100mg by several reefers on reefcentral.It is rated for like 120g which I figure is about what my tank volume is(close),but I was told they are a little over rated.Hope that answers Your question.
 
My personal advice would be to ignore your ORP. I completely understand that ozone is supposed to control ORP, but in my experience, there's not always a 1:1 correlation between the two.

I'm the biggest fan of ozone, but I don't agree with dosing it in accordance to ORP, but rather for what it's useful for - clearing the water. The "Mojo test," as it's been called here on the fourms: siphon some water out of your tank an into a white salt bucket. If it has a slight yellow or green cast, then you need more ozone. If not, you have plenty. I recommend bringing down your ozone to the point just over when you can't see any yellow/green in the white bucket. For me, this is around 20-25mg/ht ozone on my 340g system. I have no idea what my ORP is, nor do I really feel it's important, since the tank is healthy.

I think you're about to kill your fish and corals if you go over 50mg/hr in a 125g. It's not good to chase ORP.

Do what you'd like, but I'm afraid you're headed for a crash if you add more ozone....
 
Does ozone affect things like pod populations, mysid shrimp, phytoplankton, and the other micro/mini critters that keep some kinds of fish and corals happy?
 
George;49894 wrote: Does ozone affect things like pod populations, mysid shrimp, phytoplankton, and the other micro/mini critters that keep some kinds of fish and corals happy?
I dont think directly... but it definately affects their food source.
 
Not in my experience. Only the bacteria in the water column.

I've heard of a case against ozone effectiveness for ick and other fish diseases, but I'm not sure either way. It was stated that bacteria in fish live closely to the subtrate when not on a host, and the make the jump from substrate to host when it's time. Therefore, no UV or ozone will make a difference. However, (whether by coincidence or otherwise), I've had good luck in controlling ick with my tangs after I added ozone; maybe it was coincidental or maybe not.
 
I like Mike's thoughts on the subject which is to get an underpowered unit so you are virtually guaranteed not to ever overdose the stuff.
 
Yup- that's what my method attempts to achieve- only use exactly what's needed, and no more. By using an ORP controller, you're headed for disaster, IMO.
 
Agreed... computers no matter how simple are eventually going to fail and from my expirience with ORP it seems difficult to measure to begin with.
 
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