Fish Room / Sump Room Considerations

[ghbrewer]

Ok, I have just about finished framing my fish room in.

I have a few considerations I would like some input on from people that have had a fish room setup for a reasonably long time or fish store owners.

The room is going to be located in my garage, which is the lowest level in my home. The fish room will include all filtration equipment, saltwater mixing and RODI containers, mini fridge, utility sink, QT and hospital tanks, and a washing machine. Currently the room is not heated or cooled, but my neighbor (house identical to mine) says that his garage doesn't get any colder than 65 degrees in the winter and no warmer than 85 in the summer. I am still a little concerned over climate control, but more so moisture and mold control.

My questions are as follows:

1. What should I cover the walls and ceiling with? (FRP Panels (like in mobile home showers) or just painted drywall? If I go with FRP, I will probably silicone all seams, making the room completely sealed. If I go with drywall, it will be mold resistant and painted with a sealer coating.

2. Should I consider purchasing a mini-split system or portable/small air conditioner with heater functionality? This would also serve a dehumidification purpose. Is it really necessary?

3. What should I do to protect my Apex and other electrical components? Should I consider putting it all in a cabinet or sealed electrical box? Or will just keeping it below the sump and hidden protect it well enough?

 

[wannabeeareefkeeper]

If it's alright by you, I'm following along. I'm in the pre-planning stage and your valid questions may help me in my decision process.


Wannabee

 

[ghbrewer]

WannabeeaReefKeeper;982391 wrote: If it's alright by you, I'm following along. I'm in the pre-planning stage and your valid questions may help me in my decision process.


Wannabee

Please do, I hope to get some really valuable input.

 

[ghbrewer]

Just so people know, the costs of 4'x8' sheets of FRP (Like in public restrooms and mobile home tub/showers), TileBoard (Just saw this, coated hardboard with tile shapes), and Mold Resistant Drywall from HomeDepot are as follows:

FRP Wall Panels: $32.45 ea.
Tileboard Panels: $19.87 ea.
Mold Resistant Drywall Sheets: $11.95 ea.

There will most likely be more finishing costs associated with the drywall than the panel options, so the cost will probably be close the same cost per square foot as the tile board.

 

[bcavalli]

Grant you have an amazing setup! Since I have a sump room as well, Ill follow so that some brilliant minds can suggest improvements I can implement in my system.

Really the only comments I can add to this is that there is a pretty big difference in my temperature down in my sump room compared to the rest of the house with the DTs (about 4*). It helps me maintain a lower temp without a chiller. However, I do a have an issue with high humidity in the the room and I've changed out my sheet took immediately around the refuge and sump areas to green-board. Its water resistant and mold resistant. I may consider adding a dehumidifier at some point..

 

[ghbrewer]

My neighbor suggested that instead of an air conditioner, that I just have a fan that pulls air into the fish room from the garage, through the room and then outside. Having a one-way flap type vent that would keep air from the fish room from getting into the garage. It will have to vent outside, I have too many tools in the garage that will rust with an increase in moisture.

 

[bcavalli]

ghbrewer;982399 wrote: My neighbor suggested that instead of an air conditioner, that I just have a fan that pulls air into the fish room from the garage, through the room and then outside. Having a one-way flap type vent that would keep air from the fish room from getting into the garage. It will have to vent outside, I have too many tools in the garage that will rust with an increase in moisture.

I think thats a great idea!

 

[wannabeeareefkeeper]

Have you thought about an electrical backup plan? I am considering two options with my plan. Either way I go; I will have to have some type of setup that will allow me to take the air out of the room through some type of setup.

If I go with a generator; the fumes must be extracted out of the room. If I go with marine batteries and a charger; the air involved with the recharging process needs to be extracted from the area. What are your thoughts on this?

I was going to mention the other obstacle about bringing in some air from outside to deal with the CO2, but you've already considered that option in your previous posts.


Wannabee

 

[ghbrewer]

I am planning on purchasing the following generator within the next year:

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Generac-7-000-Watt-Automatic-Standby-Generator-with-50-Amp-Transfer-Switch-5837/202214401?N=5yc1vZbx9s">http://www.homedepot.com/p/Generac-7-000-Watt-Automatic-Standby-Generator-with-50-Amp-Transfer-Switch-5837/202214401?N=5yc1vZbx9s</a>

It will be housed outside and will run off of natural gas.

No generator should be housed inside of a dwelling unit, IMO. If you want to protect it, then you could build a small shed or box to protect it from the elements. In regards to the charging of marine batteries, I do not know that it needs any more circulation than what is already needed for moisture control.

 

[wannabeeareefkeeper]

I was told that the marine batteries require ventalation due to the chemical process it goes through with the recharging. I'm not sure if you purchase a yellow top or blue top marine battery, if the outcome would be different. The yellow and blue tops are made of another material and the battery itself is self contained.

Wannabee

 

[drydock]

Are the exterior walls insulated? You want to be careful that you don't have two vapor barriers that will trap moisture between them. i.e. a vapor barrier on the outside wall and the FRP on the inside wall. One side or the other needs to be able to "breath" to allow moisture somewhere to go. Typically the vapor barrier goes to the humid side - in the south you would put the vapor barrier on exterior facing wall, in the north it's on the interior facing wall.

 

[ghbrewer]

No exterior moisture barrier to worry about here.

The more I think about it, the more I am leaning towards mold resistant drywall. Easier to install for me, and it is the best insulator and noise dampener of all three.

 

[myreefclub0070]

Frp is more expensive but you will never have any wall issues, I have it in my garage so I can pressure wash it when ever I want to, which I've done several times before.
I also used the outside, inside corner, top and straight strips for a nice finish and it's also prevent water from getting in the seams.
Epoxy painted floor!
Lay in ceiling with 2 vents, 8" duct with an inline fan blowing outside and the other vent pulling from the garage.
If you have good air flow in the room you wouldn't have to worry about moisture and missing up your electrical stuff.
You only need a dehumidifier only if your not vented properly.

Food for thought, I might be wrong on all counts.

 

[maelstrom79]

Sounds reasonable to me. I'm also going to do a basement fish room build out but still saving up some funds for it. I'm curious about the exterior pumps used with such a build out - how are they plumbed into the sump and what happens when the power goes out (ie, do those exterior iwaki pumps stay primed)

 

[reefkeeper]

I have a large Sump and Frag room and make sure you Ventilate the room properly. I use this system to ventilate my sump room which is in my basement. It works great.

 

[enderg60]

Heres what Ive found from having mine in the basement. and what things I still want.

If you get yourself a good dehumidifier you dont really need to worry about moisture or mold resistant drywall panels. I got a 70 pint a day unit and it not only keeps things nice and dry it also increases my evaporation and keeps the tank cooler.

Considering what all is going in there, you can get a small window unit heat pump that will heat and cool for under $300(probably under $200 for just the room) If you decide to go with a ventilation fan have it draw air from your house(already conditioned) through the room and then outside. Easiest way would be have a bathroom type fan that blows into the room from the house and then just let it out through a relief vent to the outside.

again with a dehumidifier there is no reason to "protect" the electronics from anything aside from spills and splashes.

Electrically I had a dedicated panel installed with 5 circuits for the tank alone. I have my lights on one, heating/cooling, main pumps and two misc circuits.

For your utility sink get a faucet with a spray hose, soap dispenser and a towel rack or two.

Make room for a wet work table to do fraging and the like on.

Have your sump elevated off the floor so it can easily be drained and cleaned. Mine is 4" up with a 2" drain to the back driveway. I do water changes by emptying the fuge and refilling it. Takes all of 5 min to do a 100g change.

Storage for filters, chemicals and such is a must. I do 3 part dosing and have 5 gallon buckets of mag, calc, alk, carbon and GFO. and much other stuff in corners. I need more cabinets and shelf space.

Good lighting is a simple thing most overlook. An extra cheap shop light or two can make a world of difference.

And lastly, be prepared for floods. they will happen. I have overflowed, or accidentally drained holding tanks many times. Which reminds me. Get a shop vac!

I think that about covers it.

 

[ghbrewer]

Great info. guys, I appreciate you taking the time to provide your perspectives!