I am wanting to install an ATO directly to my RODI unit with the float valve in my sump. How is this done. Right now I have an ATO but I keep a water resevoir beside my tank. I am not familiar with connecting them directly to the RODI unit. I guess no electricity is invloved. Is it based on pressure? Someone please give me some insight.
Float Valve directly to RODI unit???
- Thread starter chull13
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I currently have my RODI connected to a float valve in the sump. No electricity involved. The risk is that if the float valve sticks or get's blocked, the sump will flood and continue to do so until it's shut off. Flooded house, dead livestock etc. 75 gals per day on the floor:sad:
I have a electronic valve that I'm adding to limit the times that the RODI is able to flow..i.e. 4 times a day for 15 minutes...to minimize the risk and give me time to notice an increasing sump level before things get critical. I've got it all set up, just haven't put it on a timer yet. (Gotta move that to the top of my to-do list!)
I have a electronic valve that I'm adding to limit the times that the RODI is able to flow..i.e. 4 times a day for 15 minutes...to minimize the risk and give me time to notice an increasing sump level before things get critical. I've got it all set up, just haven't put it on a timer yet. (Gotta move that to the top of my to-do list!)
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I use a float in my rodi container beside my sump, I use a float switch in my sump and a small powerhead to pump in my top off water. Much safer. If my float valve sticks I only flood my floor (has not happened yet, knock on wood)n not my tank... My setup has been working for 2 years flawlessly!
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Its much safer to have the RO/DI going to a resevoir first then feed to a ATO system. If something fails you only will drain your resevoir. Nothing is failsafe but you can make it as much as possible. I think Cameron has a pretty much safe system he is using. Search out his posts on ATOs.
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A very basic install would use the JBJ ATO with a Elec Solenoid hooked to the ATO rather than a pump.
Float valve Drops = solenoid cycles = water flows from RO unit
The only problem I see is that you will not be getting the best water from your RO unit because it will only be running for a short period of time. Other than that it would be great. The JBJ ATO is nice for this setup because it has a auto timer that will prevent a flood should the float valve stick.
Float valve Drops = solenoid cycles = water flows from RO unit
The only problem I see is that you will not be getting the best water from your RO unit because it will only be running for a short period of time. Other than that it would be great. The JBJ ATO is nice for this setup because it has a auto timer that will prevent a flood should the float valve stick.
The author of that thread has the same RODI unit and float valve that I have--here's a picture from his thread. You can see the float valve in the trash can--mine is in my sump. His pure water line connects to the float valve. The water level drops, it lets water flow. It comes back up to that level and shuts off. It's based on pressure.
(The Typhoon units have an Auto Shut Off Valve so the back pressure actually ends up shutting off the input line to the RODI.)
I'm adding a 120 volt Solenoid to that line as a safety measure. Both the solenoid and valve have to be open for water to flow. The solenoid will be on a timer so that even if the float sticks open water will only flow for x minutes a day. If they both stick open, I've a wet house, and if they both stick close, I could burn up my pump--but it'll take a few days before evaporation will take the water level down that far.
I also have a trash can set up like this to make change water. I've a T in the pure water line so I'll add the solenoid to the line after the T so it just affects the line going to the sump.
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(The Typhoon units have an Auto Shut Off Valve so the back pressure actually ends up shutting off the input line to the RODI.)
I'm adding a 120 volt Solenoid to that line as a safety measure. Both the solenoid and valve have to be open for water to flow. The solenoid will be on a timer so that even if the float sticks open water will only flow for x minutes a day. If they both stick open, I've a wet house, and if they both stick close, I could burn up my pump--but it'll take a few days before evaporation will take the water level down that far.
I also have a trash can set up like this to make change water. I've a T in the pure water line so I'll add the solenoid to the line after the T so it just affects the line going to the sump.
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This is the most $$ and coolest one I could find so I am sure you can find one much cheaper.
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I agree, the first .5 Gallon or so that comes out of RODIs tends to have higher consintrations of contamints. so if your RODI cycles off and a lot your water wont be as good as it could be.
jhutto
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Simplistic way to turn on RODI and fill the container. Once every week or so , let it fill up and then turn off. Use Autotopoff.com apparatus to top off with a timer from RK2 or could use a plain old timer a couple times a day to limit risk of over filling. I use that will an aqua lifter pump and it has worked like a charm for months. Less risk and my way to go.
Joe
Joe
