Floatswitch scenario

[lilrobb]

Following situation;

I have a large (55gal) topoff container.

Right now one floatswitch trigger an electronic solenoid to launch the RODI, with this setup the RODI makes about 2gal MAX each time it triggers.
I have meanwhile set the solenoid on a timer to counteract that somewhat. (Only allow the solenoid to trigger for 2hrs each day, so allowing about 10gal to be made at that time).

Ideally I want to go to this setup:

2 floatswitches

one low level and one high level.

Low level trigger the solenoid to ON and it keep ON until switch 2 triggers the solenoid to OFF.
Water level can sink to float 1 again and the cycle continues.

Anyone an idea how to achieve that?

I am thinking standalone box, but could also use an Apex that I have...

 

[gwhiz]

I've seen setups with hi/lo float switches on Reef Central. I believe that I've seen commercial versions as well.

I don't understand why the RODI only makes two gallons when triggered. Can you elaborate?

The way I've got mine plumbed is with a solenoid on a timer and a float valve. The timer only allows the solenoid to feed water four times a day for 15 minutes at a time, and then only when the float valve is down. This keeps my sump reasonably full but, should the float valve stick, allows a significant amount of time to catch it before the sump would flood. And there's a water alarm next to the sump.

 

[lilrobb]

The travel of floatswitch only allows for .75" which translates to roughly 2gal in a 55gal barrel.

I wonder if a JBJ topoff can be configured this way, they have a HI and a LOW

 

[reeftankjunkie]

I bought one from autotopoff.com for my 75 and I had it hooked up directly to my sump ( stupid I know), but it was a stand alone unit the had a low float that would trigger on the solenoid and a high that would trigger off. Worked perfect for 3+ years, until I moved and left the sump out in the rain with the control box hooked to it. I still have it if you want me to bring it to you. It got a little corroded inside, but it could probably be fixed. If not, your not out anything.

 

[lilrobb]

reeftankjunkie;610929 wrote: I bought one from autotopoff.com for my 75 and I had it hooked up directly to my sump ( stupid I know), but it was a stand alone unit the had a low float that would trigger on the solenoid and a high that would trigger off. Worked perfect for 3+ years, until I moved and left the sump out in the rain with the control box hooked to it. I still have it if you want me to bring it to you. It got a little corroded inside, but it could probably be fixed. If not, your not out anything.

I start owing you a lot of frags! LOL

Please do - I love me some tinkering with this kinda stuff!

 

[reeftankjunkie]

LilRobb;610933 wrote: I start owing you a lot of frags! LOL

Please do - I love me some tinkering with this kinda stuff!

No worries, it's just sitting here collecting dust. I'll see if I can find the solenoid that went with it too.

 

[cr500_af]

Rob, if it matters at this point, yes, a JBJ can be set up to do that.

 

[rockdog]

If that doesn't work out I can build you one.

Jason

 

[grouper therapy]

A latching relay will do it.

 

[reeftankjunkie]

agentgreen;611054 wrote: Do they still sell this type of system? I'm gonna be in the same boat here soon, and was wondering the same thing.

Here is the one I have.. It's the double switch one, and I think I had to by the solenoid seperately.

 

[grouper therapy]

Or just use this in a 55 gallon connected to your rodi solenoid

 

[lilrobb]

grouper therapy;611216 wrote: Or just use this in a 55 gallon connected to your rodi solenoid
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/SJERHOMBUS-Float-Switch-3HCV3?Pid=search">http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/SJERHOMBUS-Float-Switch-3HCV3?Pid=search</a>[/QUOTE]
Ideally my dreamsetup would allow me to produce 55gal each time it triggers.
This switch (I believe) wouldnt be able to do that.
tether length is 3.5" - that means it triggers within 3.5", no?

 

[grouper therapy]

LilRobb;611223 wrote: Ideally my dreamsetup would allow me to produce 55gal each time it triggers.
This switch (I believe) wouldnt be able to do that.
tether length is 3.5" - that means it triggers within 3.5", no?

7" twice the tether length
If not try this one

 

[grouper therapy]

grouper therapy;611238 wrote: 7" twice the tether length
If not try this one

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/DAYTON-Float-Switch-3BY74?Pid=search">http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/DAYTON-Float-Switch-3BY74?Pid=search</a>[/QUOTE]
The float switch will usually activate just past the 135 degree mark and cut off just past the 45 degree mark.
That said the travel would be around 5"
Or use the other one

 

[darcurr]

/Users/Daren/AppData/Local/Temp/moz-screenshot.png alt="" />rob,

I know how you can build it with 2 regular float switches and relays. I.E. cheap. Let me know if you're interested. I drew it in paint but don't know how to post it here. It's fairly straight forward.

 

[weaglereefer]

Why not just trigger the solenoid to fill ro/di like once a week for a few hours, and shut off by the float switch? How much topping off do you need?

 

[jef4y]

As mentioned, the autotopoff.com double switch setup will do this out of the box. Alternatively, you could run 2 of the autotopoff.com float switches (one high, one low) to a 'breakout box' on your apex and control the soleniod that way.

Personally I like having EVERYTHING through my apex because then I can control it all at one place.

 

[darcurr]

http://www.atlantareefclub.org/forums/album.php?albumid=212&pictureid=1259">http://www.atlantareefclub.org/forums/album.php?albumid=212&pictureid=1259</a>


The link above is how to do it without latching relays. A true DIY control system :D. I drew it with the assumption (yes I know what it stands for) that dc will be run to the tank. I would just make sure the bottom relay has 2 form C contacts so it can seal in with one and run the RO with the other,[IMG]http://www.atlantareefclub.org/forums/album.php?albumid=212&pictureid=1259" alt="" />

 

[darcurr]

JeF4y;611986 wrote: As mentioned, the autotopoff.com double switch setup will do this out of the box. Alternatively, you could run 2 of the autotopoff.com float switches (one high, one low) to a 'breakout box' on your apex and control the soleniod that way.

Personally I like having EVERYTHING through my apex because then I can control it all at one place.

+1 One stop shopping is the best:thumbs:

 

[lilrobb]

JeF4y;611986 wrote: As mentioned, the autotopoff.com double switch setup will do this out of the box.

That's a negative - tried it.
The ATO.com one uses the 2nd float as a failsafe - not as a relayed switch.

I am trying to explain again:

I want the pump to trigger ON once the bottom switch falls dry and I want it to stay ON until the top switch triggers up.
Then I want the barrel to drain until the bottom switch triggers DRY/ON again and fill the barrel to the top switch again...


Anyone willing to build me such a relay box?
120V in/out two switches that work as descrived above?

Send me your price!