Frag Tank Build: 48X12X12

flyingarmy

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I am re-doing my frag tank and switching out my 40 GAL Breeder for a 48X12X12 glass tank with one return and one overflow, opposite sides. My first step is lighting. I have a OO 36" 150W MH 2X65 PC fixture that is currently over the 40 breeder which will be too small. I was looking at picking up a 48" fixture but after doing some reading I was thinking about using a motorized track system with either a 150W/175W MH going back and forth along the 48" track. I know LFSs use this method and after doing some research you can place the fixture closer to the corals and get excellent PAR without the heat since it's moving back and forth. Does anyone have any thoughts, suggestions on this type of lighting setup? Champion Lighting sells a motorized track system that would work perfect.

My next addition would be to use my Ocean Motions 2-Way and Ocean Motions Revolution along with a spray bar on a CLS. Should be an easy build, I still need to design the CLS.

Thanks for looking!:wow2:
 
Motorized lighting sounds awesome. Just hope it doesnt get stuck. but after being acclimated the corals would prolly love it if would. Sounds like an awesome setup. Let me know if you need any help :)
 
Here is the link to the motor/rail kit.

http://www.championlighting.com/product.php?productid=31651&cat=0&page=1">http://www.championlighting.com/product.php?productid=31651&cat=0&page=1</a>

Getting stuck would be an issue, but I wouldn't put it as close enough to fry the corals.
 
$199......dang man, for sure we could build that for less, unless you're all about buying it and setting it up. Could be a sweet project.
 
Me and robotics are like a hooker and a bible thumper....we just don't get along. It would be easier to purchase the setup as is, plus the warranty of the system. If I built it not only would it work for about 1 month but when it broke I'd have to figure out what the hades I did and how to fix it.
 
Lol, tru that. Well like I said, if ya want help with the setup, just let me know.
 
guess it all depends on the reflector. You can get away running the iwasaki in the LB. Or if you wanted to get it closer to the surface, a LA would do nicely. If you're gonna run a parabolic, I'd say a 250 to compensate for light spill. But at that rate, the Iwasaki beats a lot of the 250's with PAR. So I guess the 175 in either a LB or LA would be my choice....that way you're running less power and getting the most out of the lamp. That would be if you go SE. DE is another monster, lol. A single 150 DE would be alright, tho a 250 would be nice as well. Do you know what ballast you want to run? And the type of bulb you want, like K or SE vs DE?
 
Very cool. I wonder what clearence you need from water to rail. I could go up on watts and only need one bulb. Indrectly save money.
 
To effectively make this work, you need a really good reflector and ballast (thinks me) And put it as close as you can so you get maximum PAR, but not too close to loose the spread. Thats where I'm thinking the LA might be the best fit for this....assuming you go with an SE bulb.....unless they have the LA for DE bulbs, I'm not sure. Then again I could be wrong in thinking like that....I have been known to be wrong here and there :)
 
I am thinking 14K maybe DE since the PAR is much better and I really like the color. Since I am not going to run actinics I would like that blueish tint since this will be the frag tank and I want to be able to take some nice pictures with that new top-down box that Big D didn't win(he got a smaller weenier version)!!!!!:yes:
 
for 150W DE the Aquaconnect seems to be the highest PAR kicker. It's only at 37-46PPFD depending on your ballast. Next in line would be a Radium 20K
 
I was thinking of a fixture, much cleaner look, like a Aquaqmedic or similar. Small footprint and I only need 12" coverage.
 
for 250's Pheonix HexArc does around 98, Aquaconnect 96, coralvue 20K 91ish, BLV 85...and of course these numbers will vary with what ever ballast you get.
 
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