????? from 7 yr newbie

[swfk44]

all you folks are much more up to speed than i, so a little help please;

1. i broke down my 55 and removed 90% of the live rock and put it in a rubbermaid. i want to put this rock in my other 55, i left it to dry out like 2 days now. why? <span style="font-size: 13px;">Aiptasia :shout: </span><span style="font-size: 12px;">i have never had one in my other reef tank, so to boil or not to boil?</span>
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<span style="font-size: 12px;">2. http://www.qualityuvlamps.com/images/products/15.gif" alt="" /> $40.00 with shipping, does anybody have one local or slightly used 8watt 11 1/2" bulb aqua ultraviolet brand.</span>
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<span style="font-size: 12px;">3. i have some anti-bacterial powder for the cyano, should i just dose and kill it and then wc 30%, i know it"s better to get rid of it by fixing the problem, the tank has been neglected for some time and just want to get back where i need to be as quickly as possible.</span>
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<span style="font-size: 12px;">4. best place to get ehiem parts local? may nned oring for top of canister filter.</span>
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<span style="font-size: 12px;">thanks for your help, hope i didn't ask to many.</span>
:thanks:

 

[jennm]

1. If you leave your rock out to dry, you'll need to re-establish the biological. Seed it with some new LR and/or some Seachem Stability (available locally).

I also agree with Cliff, Peppermints help keep them in check. Also Red Sea Aiptasia X help you get rid of them.

I wouldn't suggest boiling live rock.

2. The UV Lamp: The UPC on that is 6 17750 20008 8 if that's any help. I can get them, but my vendor is out of stock right now (usually comes back into stock fairly quickly). $40 shipped is a good price - I can match it but I'd have to wait til my distributor gets it back in (could check on that if you wish).

3. Chemi-Clean (or similar) will work in a pinch - you mentioned the 30% water change - and yes that's absolutely necessary if you go that route. I don't usually recommend it but if you do it right, it will help - but you must also address the underlying cause(s) or it will come back (with a vengeance).

I can get Eheim parts - what model is the canister?

Jenn

 

[crew]

aiptasia is an easy one..

squirt the ones you can see with lemon juice and then throw in a peppermint shrimp or two... problem solved

 

[swfk44]

so my so called live rock that has been out of water for a few days and is dry i can put it in the other tank?

 

[dannybradley]

Using eurythromycin to treat cyano will have no negative effect whatsoever on biological filtration. Just be sure to completely kill the cyano, as not doing so will encourage drug resistance.

 

[dannybradley]

swfk44;384285 wrote: so my so called live rock that has been out of water for a few days and is dry i can put it in the other tank?

No. You will need to recure it. Everything that was alive on the rock is now dead on the rock and will spike NH3 and NO2.

 

[swfk44]

DannyBradley;384290 wrote: No. You will need to recure it. Everything that was alive on the rock is now dead on the rock and will spike NH3 and NO2.

okay what if i boil it to remove everything off it and make it base rock so to speak?

 

[jennm]

I've never done that (and don't recommend it) but I am pretty sure that all you would end up with is rock with super-dead stuff on it, that would need to re-cure.

I concur with Danny - needs to be re-cured because it will spike ammonia and nitrite.

Jenn

 

[swfk44]

okay so how do i re-cure it? just put it back in the old tank that is still up and running with no critters in it.

 

[jennm]

Stick it in a Rubbermaid tub or similar, with powerheads and a protein skimmer if possible and just let it run. Do water tests and partial water changes until you don't get any more ammonia or nitrite and nitrates running below 20 (closer to zero, the better).

It's known as "cooking" although no real cooking is involved.

Jenn

 

[swfk44]

thanks folks will do

 

[fish scales2]

The aptasia will still come back. Deal with it as it does by the above mentioned methods or kalk paste.

 

[swfk44]

Fish Scales2;384391 wrote: The aptasia will still come back. Deal with it as it does by the above mentioned methods or kalk paste.

after leaving it out for a week to dry , they will still come back? :shout: well i learned one thing, ask before you do it, i could have just went from tank to tank. :doh:
i don't like it but need the rock as my reef has always been lacking enough rock, but let the record show i've NEVER ever had aptasia in that tank, october will be 8 yrs up and running. :bubba:

 

[swfk44]

i have a spare 29 gal tank that this rock will fit in, do i need a heater for temp and lights? or do i just put it back in the tank i pulled it out of, nothing in it as far as livestock, but still up and running at this point.

 

[swfk44]

my 55 rebuild is coming along, dosed it with eurythromycin twice and then did a 30+ water change. everything is looking much better, i had only 1 96 10k in the tank because of my $$ problems, now have added a 96 antic and things are coming along. next a couple pumps for extra flow, clean up crew, and i hope to fit one more 96 10k in the canopy. i have an eheim canister and hope to put some phosphate stuff in it and some carbon too. (?) i put all the DEAD rock back in the other 55 to re-cure after pressure washing the heck out of it, :yes::unsure::doh::lol2h well. i have some jobs coming up and looking forward to becoming a member, looking forward to meeting some of you, thanks for all your help.

 

[lilrobb]

There is a difference between the cooking described here and actually boiling the stuff in hot water.
Boiling will kill ANYTHING on it, the "cooking" described here might leave some traces and they will come back...

 

[tnyga]

I used a shrynge (sp) and filled it with boiling water....shot up the bad stuff and it never returned..