GFO and Carbon Effective Life?

budsreef

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I've recently started running GFO and Carbon in separate reactors on both my 120G system and my frag system. I know this has been asked before, probably even by me, but I'm going to ask again because I'm so confused.

Is there an advantage or harm in running either or both all the time and how long is the media good for?
 
you can run both at the same time. Carbon is maxed out at 2 weeks though. GFO, maybe 3-4 weeks.

you'll have to change both at the same time, other than that, no issues.
 
Budsreef;417956 wrote: I've recently started running GFO and Carbon in separate reactors on both my 120G system and my frag system. I know this has been asked before, probably even by me, but I'm going to ask again because I'm so confused.

Is there an advantage or harm in running either or both all the time and how long is the media good for?

There are people in ARC that run GFO continuously, without any apparent issues. As for Carbon, when I use it, I run it for about a week and then toss it out. Carbon is cheap, and it gets saturated with adsorbed materials fairly quickly IMO, and/or becomes an incubator for bacteria. I don't know that you need to run it continuously, unless there is some specific issue you are having, such as chemical warfare between different organisms. Someone last night reported that their zoo's 'melted' if carbon was used more than 2 weeks. I found that to be interesting.
 
That was Theplantman and was what prompted my questions since my zoas have not been opening either. I thought the problem may have been chemical warfare between my leathers and mushrooms so I started running carbon but they still haven't opened at all. I've inspected them very carefully and I know there is no pest on them.
 
Might try running the carbon intermittently. Like 3 on/7 off, for example, or just use less of it.
 
The saturation for the gfo depends on the amount used verses the amount of phosphate contained and /or produced by your system. Phosphate levels being monitored monthly is a good way to determine the gfo' s effectiveness or life . If there were a way to measure other toxins that carbon helps remove then that would be ideal. To my knowledge there is nothing available at the hobbyist level and it is so cheap then I replace mine every month. I am not sure if it would help but I run my carbon after the gfo in case some iron is released the carbon may contain or absorb it. I run carbon 24/7 since I have multilple species of corals in the system.
 
What he said.

Phosphates show up on the test kit, replace GFO.

Water becomes cloudy, or I hit one month, replace carbon.

Both are run in their own reactor, both run 24/7, and I test weekly. that with a quicky rinse before hooking up the reactor and ive never had any issues.
 
I found this statement from the first article below.

"The process of influencing the growth and development of other organisms through use of chemical compounds is called 'http://www8.nos.noaa.gov/coris_glossary/index.aspx?letter=a">allelopathy</a>.' [[IMG]http://coralreef.noaa.gov/aboutcorals/coral101/turfwars/#h">h</a>] Like their name implies, these compounds are similar to turpentine in chemical structure and in most instances, are just as toxic."

I just found these interesting reads, also.

[IMG]http://coralreef.noaa.gov/aboutcorals/coral101/turfwars/">http://coralreef.noaa.gov/aboutcorals/coral101/turfwars/</a>

[IMG]http://wildshores.blogspot.com/2008/09/seaweeds-wage-chemical-warfare-on.html">http://wildshores.blogspot.com/2008/09/seaweeds-wage-chemical-warfare-on.html</a>
 
I just Googled 'allelopathy in corals'. Got a bunch of hits. This article is great.
http://www2.hawaii.edu/~delbeek/reefaq6.html">http://www2.hawaii.edu/~delbeek/reefaq6.html</a>

Thanks, now I have a whole new subject to go research ;) Great thread!
 
Here's an even better/more comprehensive article. This is fascinating stuff IMO. I think it could potentially explain a lot of things where we have probably all said at some time...'now why did that happen?'

a>
 
Unfortuantely, I've never detected any phosphates in either system using API and Elos test kits but recently suffered through huge algae outbreaks in both systems. Nitrates have also always been at zero with the API test kit. I added a UV sterilizer to both systems with no appearant benefit as far as the algae goes, then added GFO and Carbon to both systems. With the help of a bunch of emerald crabs added to the frag system the algae is now all gone from my frag tank and it appears the algae is starting to die off in the 120G system.

But I still have the issue of zoas not opening.
 
I've read about this before and have been suspicious that my zoa problem could very well be associated with the toxic warfare. I have several finger leathers, devil's hand, toadstool leathers, and fiji yellow leather as well as a whole lot of different mushrooms in the tank. I've just recently removed the devil's hand and cut a couple of the toadstools and finger leathers off at their bases without any improvement. I moved a large rock of zoas and palys to the frag system this weekend to see if they will open there but so far no luck.

ichthyoid;417990 wrote: I just Googled 'allelopathy in corals'. Got a bunch of hits. This article is great.
http://www2.hawaii.edu/~delbeek/reefaq6.html">http://www2.hawaii.edu/~delbeek/reefaq6.html</a>

Thanks, now I have a whole new subject to go research ;) Great thread![/QUOTE]
 
Budsreef;418010 wrote: Unfortuantely, I've never detected any phosphates in either system using API and Elos test kits but recently suffered through huge algae outbreaks in both systems. Nitrates have also always been at zero with the API test kit. I added a UV sterilizer to both systems with no appearant benefit as far as the algae goes, then added GFO and Carbon to both systems. With the help of a bunch of emerald crabs added to the frag system the algae is now all gone from my frag tank and it appears the algae is starting to die off in the 120G system.

But I still have the issue of zoas not opening.

Bud, bring me some water and let's test it with a colorimeter.
 
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