Hair Algae??!! HELP!!!!!

[delpni]

I have a TERRIBLE hair algae growth that has recently developed in my 75 gallon. I think my phosphates are at .05 (high) and I am having an extremely difficult time lowering to 0. I have changed 15 gallons of water over the past 72 hours (over the past 3 weeks, I have changed out over 40 gallons total). The stupid chemical test (API) I have is really difficult to get an accurate reading b/c 0 and .05 look VERY similar to each other (picture attached). Additionally, I have added "Phosguard" (Seachem) pellets to my sump (in a filter bag) with no notable change over the past 2 weeks. All of my other parameters are fine:

480ppm Calcium, 1.024-1.025 spec. gravity, 78-80 deg. (temp), 0 nitrates, 0 nitrites, 10dKH, no detectable iron, 8-10 mg/l oxygen, no amonia. Lights are 4 54W T-5's with 4 new Ice Cap reflectors (not sure how much those things increase output in wattage?) and I run the blue lights 15 hours/day, white lights are 7 hrs/day, moon light is 7 hours/day, and a few hours (2) of total darkness.

I am afraid to use a toothbrush to scrub the algae because it is growing over polyps (very nice ones that I am afraid it is going to kill) and all over my feather dusters tubes. :sad: I have tried pulling (by hand) as much as I can gather, but I end up dropping small pieces, which I am sure are causing the problem to spread. I use "Algae Fix" and have at least 30 snails (various types), 7 hermit crabs, 1 Mandarin Gobby, and a few other fish who do not contribute to the cleanup; I have considered a Foxface Rabbitfish but do not know how he will be with my Percula Clowns and Chromis'. I have also read that the foxface may nip pollys/coral and can pack a nasty sting if his fins get you. I appologize this post is so long, but thank you for reading and I welcome ANY</em> ideas!!!!!

 

[moebious]

I would increase your total darkness time for sure. 10 to 12 hours or more until it is under control. Algae loves light.

 

[cr500_af]

Be patient. The algae proliferates due to high nutrient levels in the water. Battling it is not a quick thing. If you are feeding heavily, cut back. Step up your water change schedule. I'd bet my house that your nitrates aren't 0... buy or borrow a good kit and double check that. API always shows me zero too, but it's wrong in my case for sure.

IMO the Phosguard needs to be in a reactor so that its effect is maximized... I use it in a TLF Phosban Reactor 150 with good results.

Manually remove what you can, and starve it out (through better management of phosphates and nitrates).

Also, if it were me, I'd shorten the photoperiod on your actinics. That long blue light period is nice to look at, but algae LOVES long photoperiods.

 

[delpni]

I SO forgot to post the pic for the Phosphate test...sorry!
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[delpni]

A few of you have messaged me to send pics..I can't figure out how to post them through a PM, so here they are. Thank you all so much for the help!
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class="gc-images" title="Algae on Snail.jpg[/IMG] style="max-width:300px" /></a> </fieldset>

 

[ferraridude112]

I'm having the same problem right now. Yesterday i went to Purereef and asked them what i should do. They said since my tank is pretty new that i probably have no phosphates and to reduce the lighting to almost none a day if even. They said that small corals can survive for two-three days without light but no more than that.
Hope this helps

 

[delpni]

cr500_af;541195 wrote:
Also, if it were me, I'd shorten the photoperiod on your actinics. That long blue light period is nice to look at, but algae LOVES long photoperiods.

moebious;541194 wrote: I would increase your total darkness time for sure. 10 to 12 hours or more until it is under control. Algae loves light.

I have NO problem cutting back my lighting however, I have one question about that before I do; I have 2 BTAs' and am wondering if they will be ok without sufficient lighting? I'm paranoid about killing my live stock..lol. :yes:

 

[moebious]

I have an RBTA in my 12 nano and i only have the lights on for 10 to 12 hours. It is doing well.

 

[brianjfinn]

Like said before, cut your lighting period back as much as possible. Your BTA will do OK with a shorter photo period. I'd say daylights on no more than six hours, with actinics on no more than two additional hours on either side (but not necessary to have them on any longer than the daylights). Continue doing daily water changes, I'd say two gallons per day. Cut back feeding, and continue this for a while. It'll take a good while for all of the algae to be gone.

 

[delpni]

Thank you all for the great advice! I am going to re-do my timers so the lights are only on for 5 hours after I get home from work so I can watch my fishies. I guess I'll keep the blue (actinic?) lights on for 7 hours..1 hr prior to the white, 5 hrs with white, and 1 hr following. From what I am reading, this should be okay. (?)

 

[gnashty]

cr500_af;541195 wrote: Be patient. The algae proliferates due to high nutrient levels in the water. Battling it is not a quick thing. If you are feeding heavily, cut back. Step up your water change schedule. I'd bet my house that your nitrates aren't 0... buy or borrow a good kit and double check that. API always shows me zero too, but it's wrong in my case for sure.

IMO the Phosguard needs to be in a reactor so that its effect is maximized... I use it in a TLF Phosban Reactor 150 with good results.

Manually remove what you can, and starve it out (through better management of phosphates and nitrates).

Also, if it were me, I'd shorten the photoperiod on your actinics. That long blue light period is nice to look at, but algae LOVES long photoperiods.

I agree with Barry and Brian - also check your mag levels. I have heard of people using tech m with good results.

When I had a HA outbreak I followed the same advice I also bumped up my Mag to about 1500 (heard of ppl going higher) along with 3 mexican turbo snails and it was gone relatively quickly. I would do further research before adjusting your mag though..

Those seachem bags really only work for 30 gal i think so they dont do much and need a reactor. Or running GFO will kill your phosphates pretty quick, just be careful with it.

 

[ferraridude112]

Just to give you a small update...for the past 2 days, i have had almost no lighting on my tank. I have noticed a significant loss in hair algae and for some reason, my cleanup crew seems much more active. Less lighting worked for me so far and hope it works for you.
Ryan

 

[delpni]

I will post an update in a few days. I cut my lights off yesterday after getting everyones advice here and am crossing my fingers that unsightly green mess will go away! :tongue: thank you all again!

 

[snowmansnow]

isn't there a way to battle it by raising Mg lvls? (provided you have a test for it)? or is that another type algae? just a thought

(oops didnt c the above post)

 

[jase75]

Cut back on the feeding (2-3 times a week) and the light and you should be fine. Worked so well for me I'm concerned my turbo snail is starving to death!

 

[cr500_af]

SnowManSnow;541701 wrote: isn't there a way to battle it by raising Mg lvls? (provided you have a test for it)? or is that another type algae? just a thought

(oops didnt c the above post)

I'll clear that up since it has been mentioned a lot lately, sometimes erroneously.

Some people have had success against bryopsis</em> (not green hair algae) by raising their magnesium levels to around 1800 and holding them there with Kent Tech M.

It has been pretty much determined through experimentation that it is NOT the actual magnesium level that does it, but rather an elevated level of something else in Tech M (and there are a lot of trace elements in it). The same method has been tried with most all other brands of magnesium, and the bryopsis didn't seem to care.

So, is summary, it's Tech M, and bryopsis, not GHA. :thumbs:

 

[gnashty]

cr500_af;541732 wrote: I'll clear that up since it has been mentioned a lot lately, sometimes erroneously.

Some people have had success against bryopsis</em> (not green hair algae) by raising their magnesium levels to around 1800 and holding them there with Kent Tech M.

It has been pretty much determined through experimentation that it is NOT the actual magnesium level that does it, but rather an elevated level of something else in Tech M (and there are a lot of trace elements in it). The same method has been tried with most all other brands of magnesium, and the bryopsis didn't seem to care.

So, is summary, it's Tech M, and bryopsis, not GHA. :thumbs:

Well, I was about to attempt to debate the issue (which im not very good at, ask my ol lady) - being as I suggested to increase mag levels as well and felt I needed to defend my earlier suggestion although I suggested to the OP "I would do further research before adjusting your mag though".

As you can see below and by just googling "increasing magnesium levels to reduce hair algae" came up with both "IT WORKS GREAT & DONT DO IT!!" In fact, they almost contradict each other in every way. I didnt have time to read much but got both the good and the bad..

I heard it from someone on the boards and tried it myself without doing further research, but it did work - actually how could it work if it isnt suppose to work.... - I should say - it didnt nuke my tank....I would love to see scientific proof to discredit it because your right Barry - alot of ppl suggest it - including myself. sounds like a good "fable" thread to me

http://blog.aquanerd.com/2009/06/hair-algaesolutions-that-dont-require.html">http://blog.aquanerd.com/2009/06/hair-algaesolutions-that-dont-require.html</a>

[IMG]http://www.reefcentral.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1750309&page=2">http://www.reefcentral.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1750309&page=2</a>

[B]Magnesium:[/B]
Believe it or not, high magnesium levels are probably the most surefire way to rid yourself of hair algae. A normal reef tank has magnesium usually around 1250-1350 mg/L. If you have hair algae though, you can increase it to 1600 mg/L or more and the hair algae will whither and die. The livestock of the aquarium should remain unaffected, but keep an eye on calcium and alkalinity as they all balance each other out.
So, to rid yourself of hair algae, the best thing to do is reduce your nutrients (nitrates and phosphates), add more inverts to your cleanup crew, get a rabbitfish or a type of tang, increase your magnesium, and manually remove excess algae. It’s a lot of work, but it will certainly pay off. That stuff will get way out of hand if you don’t do something about it.
Sources:
[IMG]http://www.saltcorner.com/sections/guest/algaepage/Green/hairalgae/Bplumosa.htm">SaltCorner.com</a>
[IMG]http://www.saltcorner.com/sections/guest/algaepage/Green/hairalgae/Dmarina.htm">SaltCorner.com</a>
[IMG]http://www.aquariumspecialty.com/catalog/index.php?cPath=">Aquarium Specialty – ZEOvit</a>
[IMG]http://www.aquariumspecialty.com/catalog/index.php?cPath=">Aquarium Specialty – Prodibio</a>
[IMG]http://www.reefhotspot.com/store/product_info.php?cPath="></a>[IMG]http://www.blogger.com/%20com=">Live Aquaria – Sea Hare</a>

 

[ralph atl]

dawgdude;541761 wrote:
Feed less, increase water changes and use carbon and GFO, preferably in a reactor.

:up:

 

[mikesommers]

I think you need to increase water changes. Thats it. If your tank is fairly new P03 can be coming from the rock depending on where it came from and how it was cured. I have approx. 15 fish in a 90 gallon with 125lbs of rock and a total of 115 gallons of water. I average between 75 and 85 gallons a month in water changes. with no issues going on. If I had an issue I would most likely double that until it was straight. Also look at your water source. By the way I don't see were anyone asked, where do you get your water from? What are you using for top off water? You could be adding both P03 & N03 to your tank. Just a thought.

 

[ralph atl]

water changes don't do that much for phates, though. They are "absorbed" in everything organic, i.e., live rock, algae, etc.