Hearly, Heaarly, Hearly --Wull all you Bean Animal Experts please stand up?

wannabeeareefkeeper

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Question about Bean Animal Setup:

I have an undrilled 72 x 18 x 22 aquarium that I want to turn into a reef tank. I know I need at least 3 holes drilled.

1.) What size holes would you drill to get the proper flow of water into the overflow box inside the top of the aquarium?

2.) What distance would you have from the center of each of the 3 holes?

3.) Remembering that this is a longer aquarium, what dimensions would you make the internal overflow box?

4.) Would you have the internal overflow box extend across the whole length of the aquarium?

5.) If the internal overflow box is shorter than the whole length of the backside of the aquarium, would you place the internal overflow box towards the right side or the left side?

Any information would be appreciated. If you have any silly remarks, please keep them at your house.


Wannabee

Edit:
WannabeeaReefKeeper;882874 wrote: Question about Bean Animal Setup:

I have an undrilled 72 x 18 x 22 aquarium that I want to turn into a reef tank. I know I need at least 3 holes drilled.

1.) What size holes would you drill to get the proper flow of water into the overflow box inside the top of the aquarium?

2.) What distance would you have from the center of each of the 3 holes?

3.) Remembering that this is a longer aquarium, what dimensions would you make the internal overflow box?

4.) Would you have the internal overflow box extend across the whole length of the aquarium?

5.) If the internal overflow box is shorter than the whole length of the backside of the aquarium, would you place the internal overflow box towards the right side or the left side?

Any information would be appreciated. If you have any silly remarks, please keep them at your house.


Wannabee
Title correction: The "w' word should have been "would" not wull.
 
3 - 1" holes. Space them as far apart as you like but make sure there is room to get your fingers in to remove the 90s in the overflow box. Overflow for the entire tank is nice but it will cause shadows. I put mine on the right because it would be easier to reach behind the tank and adjust the valves.

Take a look about half way through my build thread and you will see lots of pics illustrating how I built mine.


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One other thing. Don't glue the pipe and 90s on the inside of the overflow. You sometimes need to pull them out. I remove them and scape algae off the inner walls of the overflow. Doing so with the pump on flushes it all down the drain lines and my filter socks catch it.



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Size depends on your flow. You need to go to Beans web site and read it good. (beananimalbarandgrill.com) I think. It has some very good pictures that you can go by.

As Rich said space them evenly but make sure you can get your fingers around them.

dimensions of the overflow box? Well that all depends on the size of pipe you use and flow you want to put through the weir. Read Bean Animals web site it tells you how to design it. Mine (I think) is 36 inches X 8 inches tall X 6 inches Deep. And I use 1.5 inch plumbing. I put mine on the center of the tank. (look up my build thread)
I do not have any shadowing in my tank. (The way I stacked my rock and how I had the overflow built)

The reason for putting the overflow in the center is you get better/equal surface skimming in the tank. But as Rich said it is harder to get to if your tank is going against the wall.

Use very good valves (gate)

Do Research, Research and then do some more research.
There is over 5000 pages of post on Reef Central about the Bean Animal overflow. Bean is very nice to deal with. He helped me design mine.
This is the best overflow bar none. You will love it.
 
rdnelson99;882877 wrote: One other thing. Don't glue the pipe and 90s on the inside of the overflow. You sometimes need to pull them out. I remove them and scape algae off the inner walls of the overflow. Doing so with the pump on flushes it all down the drain lines and my filter socks catch it.



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Rich, you didn't fall for my bait. [.... If you have any silly remarks, please keep them at your house.] I was leaving it wide open for some laughter from your side and my plan fell through the cracks. Next time I'll use the "Icehouse" instead of "your house" for bait; that'll get ya. :lol2:

Wannabee

P.S. I'll bet you didn't drink your first cup of coffee prior to reading my post?
 
bruce 1;882891 wrote: Size depends on your flow. You need to go to Beans web site and read it good. (beananimalbarandgrill.com) I think. It has some very good pictures that you can go by.

As Rich said space them evenly but make sure you can get your fingers around them.

dimensions of the overflow box? Well that all depends on the size of pipe you use and flow you want to put through the weir. Read Bean Animals web site it tells you how to design it. Mine (I think) is 36 inches X 8 inches tall X 6 inches Deep. And I use 1.5 inch plumbing. I put mine on the center of the tank. (look up my build thread)
I do not have any shadowing in my tank. (The way I stacked my rock and how I had the overflow built)

The reason for putting the overflow in the center is you get better/equal surface skimming in the tank. But as Rich said it is harder to get to if your tank is going against the wall.

Use very good valves (gate)

Do Research, Research and then do some more research.
There is over 5000 pages of post on Reef Central about the Bean Animal overflow. Bean is very nice to deal with. He helped me design mine.
This is the best overflow bar none. You will love it.


Thank you Bruce 1 for your insight and help with the Bean Animal pre-planning setup.

Wannabee
 
tbryan;882902 wrote: Don't you have a 120 to build what's the hold up?

Really!!!! Kid can't focus. Finish one project before starting another would ya!!!! Hehehehehehe



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rdnelson99;882918 wrote: Really!!!! Kid can't focus. Finish one project before starting another would ya!!!! Hehehehehehe



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What can I say? I'm multi-talented as well as multi-tasking [a new term that older folks can't comprehend]. See it revolves around technology and the computer age, I know Rich; maybe one day you'll understand. :lol2: :yes:

Hey! Are you laughing at me? Watch it! I hide the Icehouse.


Wannabee

P.S. Who said that we had to grow up? I enjoy being a "kid". I'm looking for a family to adopt me to finance my hobby so that I can complete my "kid cave" with nothing but reef tanks and lots of saltwater. Rich: shall I send you the paperwork?

Edit:
tbryan;882902 wrote: Don't you have a 120 to build what's the hold up?
Se + ques + tra + tion .
 
My overflow is just deep enough that the 90s turned down are about 1/4" above the bottom plate. I ran them through the table saw to cut slits. This way, if a fish somehow gets in the overflow there is no way to make it down to the filter socks.

I also opted to a slit cut with the table saw on the face of the overflow instead of teeth. This causes a very shallow sheet of water to be skimmed right off the top resulting in better surface skimming.


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leveldrummer;882992 wrote: What is "hearly hearly" anyway?

Did you mean hear ye, hear ye! Like te way they called attention in the midevil times?


Yes! That's it. "hear ye, hear ye!" I too didn't have my coffee before I posted the original message. To be honest, I should have washed my face too. That's how come I said "wull" and corrected it to would. "........ in the midevil times" you stated. Has it been that long ago? Man, I'm gettin' old, real old.


Wannabee
 
I made my overflow box 5" tall and 5" deep. I think I put my center of my holes 3" from the top rim. All holes are at the exact same level.

One thing to keep in mind is the flow when putting on the overflow box. The bean animal can handle a lot if flow so depending on the weir length you may have to put the overflow box about 1/2" below where you want the water level. I put mine down 1/4" and my overflow is 36" wide. But with 1700gph the water level is slightly higher than I wanted.
 
rdnelson99;882983 wrote: My overflow is just deep enough that the 90s turned down are about 1/4" above the bottom plate. I ran them through the table saw to cut slits. This way, if a fish somehow gets in the overflow there is no way to make it down to the filter socks.

I also opted to a slit cut with the table saw on the face of the overflow instead of teeth. This causes a very shallow sheet of water to be skimmed right off the top resulting in better surface skimming.


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Not to mention it's a whole lot easier than cutting the teeth and making them evenly spaced :)
 
You would be welcome to see how we did a 125g and a 55g. We also went with a SCWD on our return and drilled 2 smaller holes for them. The first overflow box was made by Melevsreef, Hal made the 2nd one( can't tell them apart. You would be welcome to stop by, just pm me, we are gone a lot! Holley :D
 
When i built/drilled my BeanAnimal, I worked from the inside out. First, found the pipes/elbows/bulkheads I'm going to use. Then, positioned them up so the upturned elbows are low enough vis-a-vis the tank's lip that they submerge before the tank overflows. And last, built the overflow box deep enough for the downturned elbow -- wide enough to remove/replace the elbows if one clogs -- and long enough to suit my fancy.

My 220g ended up with a 24" by 4" by 3" overflow box. It handles the ~500gal/hr I throw at it silently, and could handle more if I upsized the return pump.
 
gaul;885564 wrote: When i built/drilled my BeanAnimal, I worked from the inside out. First, found the pipes/elbows/bulkheads I'm going to use. Then, positioned them up so the upturned elbows are low enough vis-a-vis the tank's lip that they submerge before the tank overflows. And last, built the overflow box deep enough for the downturned elbow -- wide enough to remove/replace the elbows if one clogs -- and long enough to suit my fancy.

My 220g ended up with a 24" by 4" by 3" overflow box. It handles the ~500gal/hr I throw at it silently, and could handle more if I upsized the return pump.
What is the total length of your aquarium? What is the overflow made of and how thick is the pieces? Did you center the overflow to the aquarium?

I like your "out of the box' thinking related to being able to easily change out one of the runs if it clogs. I also like that you thought about being able to modify it later with a larger return pump.

Thank you for your response here. Your response has been very helpful.


Wannabee
 
I knew 1/2" PVC would cover my bases for all perceivable future, so I got it. The main channel currently is throttled back to probably 25% of possible flow. (A pure siphon can move a lot of water, more than an open drain.)

My aquarium is about 8 feet long, and the overflow only covers one third of the length. I could have put it on the end if I didn't mind having the bulkheads there. But I decided to put the plumbing in the back, for a less visible approach.

Being able to take it apart and put it back together in case of some failure was important. So, there's a T on all the exterior bulkheads with a screw cap on one end. If I need to clean a pipe out, I can remove a screwcap, run down a brush, and then put everything back together.

The BeanAnimal solved the problem that caused me to breakdown the saltwater tank the first time -- the constant flushing noise of an open drain. Why I'm breaking down the tank now is due to another problem - the bossman isn't giving me enough money to stock it. lol. Anyway, I think the BeanAnimal was a genius idea and major props to the guy for creating it!
 
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