hello everyone

[kstyle13]

I am new to here. I had another member tell me to boon here because everyone is full of knowledge and awesome. I am finally deciding to set up a saltwater tank. Ive had freshwater for 17 years now and its gotten to the point of not being enough. I am completely reeking my 130 gallon tank. Here is my plans for the tank. Please give me advise and tweeks to make everything go smooth.

I planetoids have an overflow with a gate valve to get the right flow rates to and from the tank.
I am going to have a 30 gallon sump/refugium to bump myself upnto a 160 gallon setup.
I have a diy yourself skimmer. I got the plans from the reef workshop. Its identical to the one shown. I followed set by step. Minus the beckette foam head. I am using a 1500 gopher pump whichis more than ample to pull air in from a intake hole and plenty to chop the air into crazy micro bubbles. I theory anyways.
I am dividing the sump into a 15 gallon tugs with a dsb. It will have the overflow from the main display tank at one end with a gap at the other end draining into the sump where the skimmer will pick it up then through a few baffles and into the return section of the sump and into the main display.
As for the display I want a 2 inch sand bed with 160 lbs of live rock. I will be running dual power heads that pump 1300 gph. I plan on a having a full on reef tank. I am going to cycle for 30 days minimum before adding fish. Over this time I will be adding live rock as I cant afford that much at one time. I want to run 4 t12 bulbs at 6100k two actinic bulbs two 10000k coral life bulbs. The t12 light are vho. Is this enough lighting for corals? I haven't even thought about fish because its going to be a while. Is there anything I missed? Oh I'm using instant ocean salt mix. I have a 32 gallon trash can to ore mix water in before doing a weekly 10% water Change. I have a hydrometer and I'm going to met a test kit asa soon as I figure out if I need the reef kit or the regular kit or both. Please let me know anything!!! Oh and I'm using prime as my water conditioned.

 

[KrisDeitz]

No your lighting will not support corals.
Look into t5 or led

 

[eric b]

kstyle13;929717 wrote: I am new to here. I had another member tell me to boon here because everyone is full of knowledge and awesome. I am finally deciding to set up a saltwater tank. Ive had freshwater for 17 years now and its gotten to the point of not being enough. I am completely reeking my 130 gallon tank. Here is my plans for the tank. Please give me advise and tweeks to make everything go smooth.

I planetoids have an overflow with a gate valve to get the right flow rates to and from the tank.
I am going to have a 30 gallon sump/refugium to bump myself upnto a 160 gallon setup.
I have a diy yourself skimmer. I got the plans from the reef workshop. Its identical to the one shown. I followed set by step. Minus the beckette foam head. I am using a 1500 gopher pump whichis more than ample to pull air in from a intake hole and plenty to chop the air into crazy micro bubbles. I theory anyways.
I am dividing the sump into a 15 gallon tugs with a dsb. It will have the overflow from the main display tank at one end with a gap at the other end draining into the sump where the skimmer will pick it up then through a few baffles and into the return section of the sump and into the main display.
As for the display I want a 2 inch sand bed with 160 lbs of live rock. I will be running dual power heads that pump 1300 gph. I plan on a having a full on reef tank. I am going to cycle for 30 days minimum before adding fish. Over this time I will be adding live rock as I cant afford that much at one time. I want to run 4 t12 bulbs at 6100k two actinic bulbs two 10000k coral life bulbs. The t12 light are vho. Is this enough lighting for corals? I haven't even thought about fish because its going to be a while. Is there anything I missed? Oh I'm using instant ocean salt mix. I have a 32 gallon trash can to ore mix water in before doing a weekly 10% water Change. I have a hydrometer and I'm going to met a test kit asa soon as I figure out if I need the reef kit or the regular kit or both. Please let me know anything!!! Oh and I'm using prime as my water conditioned.

If adding a gate valve to your return plumbing you will want to add it on the return side (in between the pump and tank returns). You never want to valve back the drains on a standard overflow. Herbie and bean animal overflows are different and do have valves on the drain but there are multiple drains in that style system.

Also yes what pfc said on the lighting you will want to do more research on here if you want a full reef tank.

Also for a reef tank with sps coral you will want more flow than what you have listed.

That is fine to let your tank cycle over the next few weeks on its own, but you should not start with adding corals right away. You will want to start with a clean up crew (snails, hermits, etc) and maybe one or two small fish. Then slowly you can start adding other stuff, but I would probably not add any lps for at least 3 months after tank has cycled and you have clean up crew and fish in tank. I would personally wait at least 6 months to a year for any sps corals (again only my opinion and some people have success adding them sooner).

If you want a full reef tank then you will eventually need an RODI water system as conditioned tap water will not work for long. The instant ocean salt is fine but you will need to regularly test the calcium, alk, mag, phosphates, nitrates as these are all very important numbers in keeping an sps tank.

I would advise you to do some more research on keeping reef tanks as well as reading some books on the subject and the most important thing in this hobby is to go slow.

Good Luck!

 

[jdavid]

Yep, can't use tap water. Invest in an RODI unit

 

[kstyle13]

I am definitely reading books I've read about 6 in that month specifically for saltwater and corals. I have a DI unit ordered I forgot to mention that earlier. So if I get T5 bulbs instead of the t12s I planned on I'd that a better fit? I actually plan on thus tank taking about 1 year and a half before I actually even add corals. That's why I am on here to learn more and get opinions from people who have been at this for many years. I plan on installing my overflow and return units into the tank tonight so thanks for the info about the placement of the gate valve. How many gph do I need to have if 1300 isn't enough. All I've been able to find says that 5 times the tank volume is adequate so I was going with more. I also read that the cleanup crew goes in the refugium... I'm Confused...

 

[eric b]

kstyle13;929784 wrote: I am definitely reading books I've read about 6 in that month specifically for saltwater and corals. I have a DI unit ordered I forgot to mention that earlier. So if I get T5 bulbs instead of the t12s I planned on I'd that a better fit? I actually plan on thus tank taking about 1 year and a half before I actually even add corals. That's why I am on here to learn more and get opinions from people who have been at this for many years. I plan on installing my overflow and return units into the tank tonight so thanks for the info about the placement of the gate valve. How many gph do I need to have if 1300 isn't enough. All I've been able to find says that 5 times the tank volume is adequate so I was going with more. I also read that the cleanup crew goes in the refugium... I'm Confused...

Feel free to ask away! Great to hear about the DI unit but make sure your incoming water is good enough not to need a RODI unit. Even going with the T5 bulbs you are going to need more than 4 like you originally had stated. Give us some tank dimensions because that will play a role into how may you can put above the tank. Were you planning on buying a T5 fixture and mounting it above the tank? If so and if you have the room I would look at something with at least 6 to 8 bulbs. The 8 bulb would be better of course for sps corals. Glad you are planning to wait a while before you add corals as it is best to take you time. As far as GPH needed for flow inside of the tank there is not really a set in stone number as you will want more of a random flow in the tank for corals. That would mean placing them so that they flow at different angles, but since it will be a while before corals are added you can always add more later. In the refugium you will want some live rock rubble and macro algae's with a light above to grow macro algae. Here is a link for some more refugium info as well as some other info for you

 

[kstyle13]

My tank is 72 inches long 17.25 wide and 23.25 tall. These are the inside measurements. As the outside doesn't matter. I plan on going to lowes and buying the ballasts for the lights and building them into my canopy. Staggering then so they light up the entire tank. As well as using mirrors in the exposed back wall of the tank to give the appearance of more ocean beyond the tank but also reflect light back to the tank. The main lights will be on during they day and phasing to the blue actinic (spelling?) Lights at night for a night appearance. They will be about 4 to 5 inches above the tank. Hence why I am not going with metal halide as to not heat up the tank. I did also plan on a grow light above the fuge. Now something caught my attention. Does my fuge need to be before or after the protien skimmer? I looked up designs and most people have the overflow going into the fuge then I read something on here saying the skimmer needs to clean the water first... it's a rectangular shaped tank and I planned on two power head in opposite corners pushing water in a "whirlpool" like motion. Or do I need the two currents to collide causing turbulence over the reef?

 

[eric b]

On the skimmer versus refuge area it is really only that you can get it all in as I have seen them before and after skimmer and in my opinion really makes no difference.

Try the power heads like that at first and if not looking or performing like you need you can always add more or rearrange them at that time.

 

[brandonmason]

On lighting I wouldn't bother with equipment from Lowe's. I'm sure there are reefers close to you that have H.O. ballast for sale. And if you are set on T5 you would want between 12 to 16 36" bulbs to cover the entire tank. This combo would allow for more customizable color spectrum. I would also look into using icecap ballast and overdriving them if you end up going more sps. For night lighting look into lunar led. Running actinic bulbs at night is running to long of a photo period imo. On getting more of an "ocean" look you sound as if you want shimmer. In that case look into halides or led fixtures.

Sent from my XT907 using Tapatalk 2

 

[kstyle13]

I am truthfully trying to save money on the lights. I don't have a ton of money I can dump into this tank. Which is yet another reason it will take about a year and half. I am going to acquire all of this over time. I would love to have led lights but that will take some time. So to start out with I will use the T5. I get the 48" lights. Where I am we can only get 24" and 48". If I don't do the actinic at night I will just run them with the 10000 k coral lights. I can get the shop light kits for 5 bucks that push 2 40 watt bulbs of any kind. This I take them apart and switch the t12 receptacle to T5. That's why I was gonna go there. Because the ballasts are cheaper if you just buy the setup than just buying the ballasts. Those are like 25 bucks each. But i connect one ballast that pushes 2 bulbs and rewire it to only light up one. It will push more light through the bulb. But instead of spending 288 on 12 ballasts I can spend 60 on 12 whole light kits and be able to run very high output ballasts on all of my lights. I am a certified electrician. So rewiring things is a breeze. Lol if everything I read was correct that should ample light right? Without altering the temperature of the tank too horribly. I actually was doing the mirrors for the aesthetician appeal as I will have live rock stacked around the overflow and return sections of the tank. Basically there will be a small glass area around those two places. Then an area in the middle of the tank with live rock as well. Then whatever I don't cover of the background I will install mirrors. The reflection didn't occur to me until the guy I was talking to from here told me that would be benificial. The guy is actually the one who told me to come here

 

[brandonmason]

I am truthfully trying to save money on the lights. I don't have a ton of money I can dump into this tank. Which is yet another reason it will take about a year and half. I am going to acquire all of this over time. I would love to have led lights but that will take some time. So to start out with I will use the T5. I get the 48" lights. Where I am we can only get 24" and 48". If I don't do the actinic at night I will just run them with the 10000 k coral lights. I can get the shop light kits for 5 bucks that push 2 40 watt bulbs of any kind. This I take them apart and switch the t12 receptacle to T5. That's why I was gonna go there. Because the ballasts are cheaper if you just buy the setup than just buying the ballasts. Those are like 25 bucks each. But i connect one ballast that pushes 2 bulbs and rewire it to only light up one. It will push more light through the bulb. But instead of spending 288 on 12 ballasts I can spend 60 on 12 whole light kits and be able to run very high output ballasts on all of my lights. I am a certified electrician. So rewiring things is a breeze. Lol if everything I read was correct that should ample light right? Without altering the temperature of the tank too horribly. I actually was doing the mirrors for the aesthetician appeal as I will have live rock stacked around the overflow and return sections of the tank. Basically there will be a small glass area around those two places. Then an area in the middle of the tank with live rock as well. Then whatever I don't cover of the background I will install mirrors. The reflection didn't occur to me until the guy I was talking to from here told me that would be benificial. The guy is actually the one who told me to come here[/QUOTE

I wasn't questioning your ability. And by no means am I fortunate enough to have the top of line equipment, but simplicity has worked for me. Coming here was a great thing and welcome. Most here are very knowledgeable and willing to help. You could keep an eye on the sale thread for cheap alternatives. Two things that are real important to reef keeping are lighting and skimming. You can find mm leds on here for around $100-150 used. Granted you would need atleast 4 units over a 6' tank.

Sent from my XT907 using Tapatalk 2

 

[kstyle13]

I didn't think you were questioning. I was just asking if that would work. But I take it I just need to bite the bullet and get the led lights I wanted anyways. Lol but my question now is will 4 sets work alone or do I still need the 10000 k llights and actinic lights as well?

 

[brandonmason]

To each is own... personally over my 4 foot 150 I run to led units 6 hours a day but 4 hours a day I run two 250 watt metal halides. On my new build (just got a 220 gallon tank) I will be running 4 led units and undecided on metal halides or over driven T5. The leds I have are bridgeluxe bulbs with dimmer switches 55 bulbs in each unit and loved the color once I first got them but am not happy with some of the coral color due to me having just blues and whites so I supplement with halides for more spectrum. New build will be full spectrum leds. 10k bulbs are going to make the tank appear more yellow. I would recommend atleast 14k bulbs if the t5 is what you go with for now. 4 leds units should be enough to cover though.

Sent from my XT907 using Tapatalk 2

 

[kstyle13]

Ok cool. Thanks. Now my next question is: when it comes time to pick the fish, can I do a small school of green chromis, a single clownfish, a goby of some kind, and a few other fish still undecided. Any suggestions one. And two are the species I listed reef compatible. They will come before the corals do because I want an established tank before I dive into adding those beauties. And I am guessing I just need to purchase both tests kit as the saltwater kit and reef kit are completely different other than having ph and nitrate. I did want a few pieces of live rock in the fuge so that I can keep a few live foods growing. Or does it not work like that? I read somewhere you can do that then the return allows them to randomly get spit into the tank and eaten.

 

[camellia]

Welcome to ARC!

Usually clown fish are keep in pairs. Yes your list is reef safe.

When buying your new test kits stay away from API. They are fine for cycling but for the above list they are not worth using.
The fuge and foods isn't that easy or beneficial from what I've read. It's pretty popular to grow Cheto in your fuge (after its established) to reduce nitrates.

 

[brandonmason]

Chromis will eventually kill each other off until they are down to a number they are comfortable with. I started with 7-8 and have 4 now. Clownfish are best in pairs. Most of the fish you listed are small which would not be a large bioload. Make sure to invest in a good skimmer if you plan on a few larger fish or even many lil fish. 125 gallons with right equipment can sustain a good amount of fish if maintained properly.

Sent from my XT907 using Tapatalk 2

 

[jdavid]

also, the clownfish may be territorial and pick on the chromis. I have one in the tank with my saddleback female and she chases it around.

 

[kstyle13]

Awesome. With my sskimmer I have a 1500 gallon per hour hour pump on it with it taking in water and air chopping it up and pushing it through a tube with 3 canister motors that will chop the bubbles even smaller then it goes into the skimmer where it pulls out the waste. I have a gate valve on the skimmer return so I can monitor the water column within the skimmer itself. It's a diy skimmer but it seems like it will work. I won't know until I get it up and running. If it doesn't I haven't wasted money as I had all the pieces laying around the house. Include I g the pump. I tore down an old above ground pool filter and reused the pump from it. Does this sound like it would be efficient or will I just have to test it and see

Edit: Another question that crossed my mind. I read that you can use regular sand as long as it's silica free. If I used a 75 to 25 ratio of aragonite and sand with aragonite being the 75 will that matter? If it does its not a problem. I'm more just curious than actually wanting to do that. Plus the guy at my lfs said you can use regular sand so I researched and I k in da wanna let him know what I read but I don't want to be wrong. It's cause a diatomaceous bloom if there's too many silicates right?