Help me with some electricity...

lilrobb

Active Member
Market
Messages
2,818
Reaction score
0
Okay,

so here I stand with a 12V switch and a 120Vpump - how do I connect that 12V switch to the 220V power supply of that pump?
Don't just say 'relais' - I wouldn't even know how to hook that up...

Robb
 
Relay. Sorry! I can scare one up for you but it will be Monday afternoon.
 
Are you trying to DIY this yourself or are you asking someone to help you with it? We need to find a relay that will handle that 220 V power. The theroy is simple, finding the relay for this could be slightly more difficult. I am assuming your 220 is coming off your home electrical panel not a single phase converter. I will try to find a relay for you and go from there.
 
Here is the full idea:

I need to switch my 120V pump with a 12V switch - I don't want 120V switches.
I want the relay to be hardwired directly into the powersupply line for the pump.
 
Good one,
Man - electricity sucks...

I don't have 12V - I only have the 120V line to the pump...
Back to square one - how can I trigger my pump with a floatswitch?
 
I have the controller, but can't really run cables that long.
Does ato.com have floatswitches for 120V?
Not sure if I would like them in my water...
 
Ahhh Andy,
We're getting close to a solution.
Any chance you have a diagram of the setup?
 
LilRobb;479695 wrote: I have the controller, but can't really run cables that long.
Does ato.com have floatswitches for 120V?
Not sure if I would like them in my water...
No, its a prebuilt relay setup
 
No, it's a relay in a box. Run the float to the sump and depending on the float's location, the circuit will be open or closed.

What kind of controller? I know the RKL only needs an open/closed signal.
 
It's a RKE and a RKL, but like I said - probably 50' away.

Looks like a day at Radioshack/HD tomorrow...
 
Oh actually let me correct myself. Yes I believe the switches are 120v. You already have a ton of 120 equipment in your water so its no more risky than anything we use on our aquariums. They are low amperage switches hense the need for the relay.

Rob I have a couple of those autotopoff units if you want to check one out before you buy.
 
It would need a SL1 or SL2 then, plus some specialized plugs for the switchbox...
Like I said - I rather wire a separate unit in the powercable
 
Yes, then an autotopoff.com unit is what you want. I actually run one of these since I have 2 pumps for topping off (one for kalk and one for fresh RO/DI). The way my setup is the pump for kalk is set up as a multi timer and is plugged into the ATO.com unit with an alarm set for pH to turn off if it's above 8.35. The pump for RO/DI is set up as a multi timer and plugged straight into the PC-4 with an alarm set for the float switch. The key is the RO/DI pump is timed to come on after the kalk pump turns off.

The overall effect is when my ATO kicks in, it tops off with kalk. Either the float switch on the ATO.com unit will stop the pump, or the pH alarm will stop the pump, or it will time out (never had that happen). Then the pump for RO/DI activates. If the water level was achieved with the kalk top off, nothing happens. If the pH spiked and the kalk pump was turned off, then the tank will still top off with RO/DI, meaning I don't have my pump run dry or make bubbles.
 
Back
Top