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does anyone know somone that can build me an overflow for my 58 gal oceanic tank?
internal overflow
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If you have an undrilled tank, do a google on bean animal overflow. Probably your best bet...
or.....
Wait til morning, and re-check this thread. I'm sure Rich and Eagle9252 will be here soon with the same advice. LOL. They are both experts at the subject...
or.....
Wait til morning, and re-check this thread. I'm sure Rich and Eagle9252 will be here soon with the same advice. LOL. They are both experts at the subject...
Or... Check out Glass Holes.
I don't know about being an expert but given a choice, I will never use anything but the Bean Animal. 
Go to http://www.beananimal.com/projects/silent-and-fail-safe-aquarium-overflow-system.aspx">http://www.beananimal.com/projects/silent-and-fail-safe-aquarium-overflow-system.aspx</a> if you want to see a great write up on how they work. This is what I used to build mine. If you like, you can check out my build thread as well. [IMG]http://www.atlantareefclub.org/forums/showthread.php?t=66530&highlight=Rich%27s">http://www.atlantareefclub.org/forums/showthread.php?t=66530&highlight=Rich%27s</a>
Lots of pictures (startomg at [pst 30) on how I built mine. This thing is dead silent.
Go to http://www.beananimal.com/projects/silent-and-fail-safe-aquarium-overflow-system.aspx">http://www.beananimal.com/projects/silent-and-fail-safe-aquarium-overflow-system.aspx</a> if you want to see a great write up on how they work. This is what I used to build mine. If you like, you can check out my build thread as well. [IMG]http://www.atlantareefclub.org/forums/showthread.php?t=66530&highlight=Rich%27s">http://www.atlantareefclub.org/forums/showthread.php?t=66530&highlight=Rich%27s</a>Lots of pictures (startomg at [pst 30) on how I built mine. This thing is dead silent.
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Where can I find info on doing a BA style overflow in a bottom drilled tank?
Ditto! I thought a BA required 3 holes.
only difference is that instead of the 4 or 5 deep coast2coast overflow the bottom of the overflow would be the tank. the top water level and pvc parts would be the same setup. if you only have 2 holes it would be setup like a herbie style drain system.
sorry being lazy copy/paste
http://www.atlantareefclub.org/forums/showthread.php?t=78868&highlight=bean+animal">http://www.atlantareefclub.org/forums/showthread.php?t=78868&highlight=bean+animal</a>
a ba runs a 3 pipe principle:
1. a full open with a tube going back to the tank so if the water level were to rise in the overflow it would turn into a full siphon.
2. a siphon only which has a ball valve on it. you open and close the bv to raise and lower the water level in the overflow. this stops the gurgle and flushing.
3. a emergency stand pipe. this is only used during start up. its just there as piece of mind. in the year i have been using mine on the 120 it has never been used at any other time. i have had to adjust the bv on the siphon because a snail got in it and block some of the flow and it raised the level in the of box and it caused the 1/4" to close and then the gurgle and flushing sound started but that's was a warning sign that's good.
i said all that to say this. the 3rd pipe is not really needed so if you had to you could get away with out using it. what i was going to do to my tank was remove the return from the 3/4" pipe and plumb it over the top in the rear and then use the return through the glass as a drain and plumb it for a full siphon with a bv on it. this way i could adjust the drain flow and allow the open channel to function as designed but add an extra drain that is closed. with it being a siphon drain it will drain most of the water as the pipe is fully closed with no air in it. and the fully open channel will be allowed to drain slowly as designed and allow air flow in the middle of the pipe as water flows. where you get the noise from is the air and water is fighting to go down the drain at the same time as the water flows slowly down the walls of the pipes at low flow its dead silent but as the flow is increased the center hole is decreased and cause it to start to suck air. this causes the gurgle and flush. with the 2nd pipe installed you are removing a lot of the water from this pipe. also make sure your drain pipes only go in the sump water level by 1" and deeper and it causes back pressure on the drains.
i hope this is clear as mudd for you. you are welcome to come over and see it if you like.
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sorry being lazy copy/paste
http://www.atlantareefclub.org/forums/showthread.php?t=78868&highlight=bean+animal">http://www.atlantareefclub.org/forums/showthread.php?t=78868&highlight=bean+animal</a>
a ba runs a 3 pipe principle:
1. a full open with a tube going back to the tank so if the water level were to rise in the overflow it would turn into a full siphon.
2. a siphon only which has a ball valve on it. you open and close the bv to raise and lower the water level in the overflow. this stops the gurgle and flushing.
3. a emergency stand pipe. this is only used during start up. its just there as piece of mind. in the year i have been using mine on the 120 it has never been used at any other time. i have had to adjust the bv on the siphon because a snail got in it and block some of the flow and it raised the level in the of box and it caused the 1/4" to close and then the gurgle and flushing sound started but that's was a warning sign that's good.
i said all that to say this. the 3rd pipe is not really needed so if you had to you could get away with out using it. what i was going to do to my tank was remove the return from the 3/4" pipe and plumb it over the top in the rear and then use the return through the glass as a drain and plumb it for a full siphon with a bv on it. this way i could adjust the drain flow and allow the open channel to function as designed but add an extra drain that is closed. with it being a siphon drain it will drain most of the water as the pipe is fully closed with no air in it. and the fully open channel will be allowed to drain slowly as designed and allow air flow in the middle of the pipe as water flows. where you get the noise from is the air and water is fighting to go down the drain at the same time as the water flows slowly down the walls of the pipes at low flow its dead silent but as the flow is increased the center hole is decreased and cause it to start to suck air. this causes the gurgle and flush. with the 2nd pipe installed you are removing a lot of the water from this pipe. also make sure your drain pipes only go in the sump water level by 1" and deeper and it causes back pressure on the drains.
i hope this is clear as mudd for you. you are welcome to come over and see it if you like.
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well I really want this tank as close to the wall as I can get it and really would like to drill the bottom.I can and have drilled many tanks. I have never used these BA overflows, what makes them superior to any other method?I do hear some good things about the design i'm just not that fimiliar with them.
Edit: sorry didnt read eagle9252's post before I responded. sounds like a fail proof design
Edit: sorry didnt read eagle9252's post before I responded. sounds like a fail proof design
The three drain style makes them very fool proof in my opinion, the surface skimming properties are another big plug. But to me, the dead silent opperation is the BOMB!!! When you stand next to my tank with the lights out you hear absolutely nothing.
I want to see pics of a 2-hole BA setup using the internal overflow.
its the same as a single factory single drain but you turn your return from the sump into a siphon drain with a ball valve. and it should be about 1/2" lower so you can regulate the level in the overflow area to control the gurgle and flushing sounds.you would then need to plumb your removed return over the back rim to get the water back in the dt.
I can plumb the returns over the back easily and in fact, want to in order to have more returns set up on my SCWD. Anybody have any pictures of a 2-hole through the bottom set up? I'd really like to see that there is one in operation before I go through plumbing the two overflows in the 180.
