Is there a way I can close this off?

SaltwaterPhoenix

Member
Supporting
Messages
29
Reaction score
8
Location
Snellville, Ga
I bought this tank with plumbing included. I don't have nearly as much stuff in my sump as he had. Do I have to go buy everything to replumb it the way I want, or is there a way to close the other side of the T off?

The guys at Lowe's and Ace said no...
915575755d2dd193d0ebc1a3d27021b3.jpg


Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk
 
Isn’t that just one end of a schedule 80 union joint? So just size it and get the part and use the only end that’s missing, followed by a small piece of PVC and a PVC cap?

Agreed. This should work. Granted it is hard to tell with just that one photo. Does the unused end screw off? My logic, if the previous guy had a pipe in there and was able to remove it cleanly, you can likely put your own pipe back in it and cap it off.

The guys and Lowe's and Ace lack creativity.
 
Isn’t that just one end of a schedule 80 union joint? So just size it and get the part and use the only end that’s missing, followed by a small piece of PVC and a PVC cap?
I agree, this would be easiest or could change between the unions from a T to a 90.

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk
 
Isn’t that just one end of a schedule 80 union joint? So just size it and get the part and use the only end that’s missing, followed by a small piece of PVC and a PVC cap?
Yeah, it is.. The guy at Ace did say something like that...

Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk
 
Agreed. This should work. Granted it is hard to tell with just that one photo. Does the unused end screw off? My logic, if the previous guy had a pipe in there and was able to remove it cleanly, you can likely put your own pipe back in it and cap it off.

The guys and Lowe's and Ace lack creativity.

The unused end did screw off, but its all glued together.

Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk
 
Got a picture of the unscrewed piece? I am thinking you are just missing one of the pieces of the union joint that was probably glued to the pipe and disposed of by the previous owner. You can usually find replacements if so.
 
Got a picture of the unscrewed piece? I am thinking you are just missing one of the pieces of the union joint that was probably glued to the pipe and disposed of by the previous owner. You can usually find replacements if so.
I thought I did... but looking back, from what he showed me when his tank was set up, it had one more T on it just like this one and the end was open... do you know the name of the replacement part I would be looking for?

Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk
 
I found this picture in another post while looking up stuff. Just realized he had hard plumbed his return pump... maybe I should look into that. Good idea or no?
db52889b97641f8507457292b549649f.jpg
f8b458a1466ed01e3f18d58eb160183c.jpg


Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk
 
I thought I did... but looking back, from what he showed me when his tank was set up, it had one more T on it just like this one and the end was open... do you know the name of the replacement part I would be looking for?

Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk

I would recommend looking at Home Depot. I am a Lowes guy myself (I used to have a significant work connection), but Home Depot as I recall carries some of these exact joints and unions whereas Ace and Lowes only had the cheaper white PVC variety. Either there or online you could buy a union which you can take apart to get the piece you need, then as civic said place a short pipe piece in it and cap. The standard unions usually only cost like $5-10 bucks depending on the size. Much cheaper than replacing all that.
 
Side note I guess you could try to, as I think civic might have been getting at, stick a pipe right in the hole that is presented with glue then cap. Only downside to that is that side will never be...unionable? ever again in the event you ever want to use it.
 
Just a thought. Unscrew the yellow circled unions. Remove the T. Screw in the gate valve where the t was. You may need longer soft tubing but the threads on the t and gate valve may be the same.

3401712B-F5D8-4B09-A129-2DE3A8C2D596.jpeg
 
Last edited:
I've found that different manufacturers seldom use the same threading for anything.
Best bet is to remove the ball valve and tee, get a new ball valve and plumb it to the other side of the stand panel.

I would do that regardless if I was using all the plumbing or not. That tee is plumbed in wrong. You never want to flow into a tee, always through the tee. Flowing into it like that adds a ton of head pressure.
 
Just a thought. Unscrew the yellow circled unions. Remove the T. Screw in the gate valve where the t was. You many need longer soft tubing but the the threads on the t and gate valve may be the same.

View attachment 34487
I just got up out of my bed to check and see if I'm that dumb before I decided to comment. I'm glad I did !

I just KNEW it was all glued together

Wow. Just wow.

Thanks!

Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk
 
I've found that different manufacturers seldom use the same threading for anything.
Best bet is to remove the ball valve and tee, get a new ball valve and plumb it to the other side of the stand panel.

I would do that regardless if I was using all the plumbing or not. That tee is plumbed in wrong. You never want to flow into a tee, always through the tee. Flowing into it like that adds a ton of head pressure.
" You never want to flow into a tee, always through the tee."

What's the difference?

Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk
 
I just got up out of my bed to check and see if I'm that dumb before I decided to comment. I'm glad I did !

I just KNEW it was all glued together

Wow. Just wow.

Thanks!

Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk
So did it work? Haha
They appear to be different manufacturers but it was worth a shot.

For the flow through a T. Take the path of least resistance. Don’t want water to hit a wall off the pump. I’m a visual person

8953F9BF-1D1C-4E4D-B845-B228332F9516.jpeg63A0FC06-75E9-4ED6-80D2-D138FFF5AC30.jpeg
 
Back
Top