LED power supply

jbadd99

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I need a replacement power supply for my Pacific Sun unit, desperately.

It usually takes the manufacturer a few days to get back to me with information on where things can be purchased Stateside, but I don't know I can wait that long. Pkus, I'm not a super guru on all this electronics stuff, that being said, I'm no stranger to a multimeter.

Here's what I need (what the old PS has listed on the outside)

Waterproof Electronic LED Driver
CV-24150B 24VDC/6.25A 150W
Input:100-130VAC 2.0A 50/60 Hz
Output: 24VDC max = 6.25A
150W

The = in output is not actually two solid lines... the lower line is dashed, I'm assuming it's an AC type symbol. It's also an IP67 an RoHS compliant. Aside from that there are no markings on the outside - not even a company name or logo.

I'd prefer a Meanwell if anyone knows of one that would be compatiable. The one I have ran super hot and I'd like something that runs a little cooler and is more reliable.

Pics on request.
Thanks in advance.
 
You will probably want one of these MeanWell HLG-150H-24B models:

http://www.meanwell.com/search/HLG-150H/default.htm">http://www.meanwell.com/search/HLG-150H/default.htm</a>

$88: [IMG]http://www.powergatellc.com/mean-well-hlg-150h-24b-power-supply.html">http://www.powergatellc.com/mean-well-hlg-150h-24b-power-supply.html</a>

150 Watt, 24VDC output, 6.3A.

The "B" also means that it's a dimmable driver.


I recently got one of their 185 Watt 36V models, to drive 3 x 50W LED array chips that I got.
 
GiulianoM;695287 wrote: The "B" also means that it's a dimmable driver.

Okay, so next question...

What differentiates a non-dimmable driver from a dimmable driver (other than the obvious)

The reason I ask is that my LEDs dim, but it's a software setting, meaning I don't think there's any feedback into the power supply to lower the voltage, etc. There are two wires that wires (I assume a + and a -) that are soldered into the connector that connects to the unit.

The main reason for asking is:
1. the "A" model is cheaper
2. most places keep the "A" model in stock as the "B" is an order item that I'm guessing will take a few weeks.

Half my tank is dark right now and I've been swapping the good light back and forth for a few days now - I'm just worried I won't be able to sustain everything that way for a few weeks.
 
jbadd99;696020 wrote: Okay, so next question...

What differentiates a non-dimmable driver from a dimmable driver (other than the obvious)

The reason I ask is that my LEDs dim, but it's a software setting, meaning I don't think there's any feedback into the power supply to lower the voltage, etc. There are two wires that wires (I assume a + and a -) that are soldered into the connector that connects to the unit.

The main reason for asking is:
1. the "A" model is cheaper
2. most places keep the "A" model in stock as the "B" is an order item that I'm guessing will take a few weeks.

Half my tank is dark right now and I've been swapping the good light back and forth for a few days now - I'm just worried I won't be able to sustain everything that way for a few weeks.

There's probably additional circuitry in between the power supply and the LEDs that control the dimming - especially if you can dim individual segments of the LEDs.

The Dimmable Driver (option B) simply means that the power supply can adjust its current level in order to dim the LEDs directly.


Also, it looks like this is an exact match for your existing power supply:
http://www.alibaba.com/product-gs/453002695/150W_waterproof_LED_driver_CV_24150B_.html">http://www.alibaba.com/product-gs/453002695/150W_waterproof_LED_driver_CV_24150B_.html</a>

You can try purchasing via Alibaba - the minimum order quantity is 1 for this item - but being that it's all coming from China, it [B]WILL[/B] take several weeks to arrive.


If you go with the Meanwell driver, the one you want is probably the "Blank" model - [B]HLG-150H-24[/B] - no A, B, C...

That's a fixed-output model, which matches the original power supply's output.

It's also physically smaller than the original, which means you should be able to fit it inside the lighting fixture (if it's built-in).
 
GiulianoM;696031 wrote: There's probably additional circuitry in between the power supply and the LEDs that control the dimming - especially if you can dim individual segments of the LEDs.

The Dimmable Driver (option B) simply means that the power supply can adjust its current level in order to dim the LEDs directly.


Also, it looks like this is an exact match for your existing power supply:
http://www.alibaba.com/product-gs/453002695/150W_waterproof_LED_driver_CV_24150B_.html">http://www.alibaba.com/product-gs/453002695/150W_waterproof_LED_driver_CV_24150B_.html</a>

You can try purchasing via Alibaba - the minimum order quantity is 1 for this item - but being that it's all coming from China, it [B]WILL[/B] take several weeks to arrive.


If you go with the Meanwell driver, the one you want is probably the "Blank" model - [B]HLG-150H-24[/B] - no A, B, C...

That's a fixed-output model, which matches the original power supply's output.

It's also physically smaller than the original, which means you should be able to fit it inside the lighting fixture (if it's built-in).[/QUOTE]

There is an addition circuit between the LEDs and the power supply. I can't dim individual segments, but on the entire unit.

And I did find that match on alibab, but I'd like to replace it with a Meanwell for several different reasons, one being reliability. That being said, this was the power supply on the lamp that fell in the water and I had to rebuild. The power supply is external of the lamp, so it never went into the water, but I figure it didnt do anything good for it with the leads being dunked.

As far as size, it doesn't really matter. It's not contained in the lamp housing, so I just stick it in the sump, so long as the cable is long enough to get it there.
 
Ok..

The HLG-150H-24 model is the one you want.

If you can't find the HLG-150H-24, then try a HLG-150-24 (without the H) - the only difference is that the H version supports a wider range of input voltage.

With standard 120V AC, there's no difference.
 
Alright, last question, I think...

Are any of the HLG-150's acceptable replacements, or is there one specific one that should be purchased.

I'm having a hard time finding anything other and an "A" or "B" model.
 
You want a HLG-150(H)-24(A).

The H and/ or A variants are options.

The A version has potentiometers on it with which you can adjust the output voltage and current to suit.

So one of these four combinations would work:

HLG-150-24
HLG-150H-24
HLG-150-24A
HLG-150H-24A
 
GiulianoM;696397 wrote: Also, if you need any help wiring it all up, let me know.

That should be the east part... I hope...

Just picked up a HLG-150H-24A from Futureelctronics.com... hopefully it works...
 
Mean Well showed up today...

looking at the wires.... :confused2:

I have a Red and Black, which I assume are the Outputs (V+ and V-)
and on the other side I have Green, Brown, and Blue...

I'm slightly confused because the other one is AC plug has the typical White, Black, and Green... the output wire is Brown and Blue.

I'm pretty sure the two green ones go together :D... I do understand some basic electrical symbols... but the rest I'm at a loss for... help?
 
Ok, after reading up on various wiring color codes, here's what I've come up with...

A/C Connector - Power Supply

Green - Green (duh)
Black - Brown
White - Blue

Power Supply - Output Cord

Red - Brown
Blue - Black

This will also serve as a guide for what I was looking at and thinking about in the morning when I actually solder this together (after I have a mind devoid of alcohol induced intelligence... )
 
Yes..

Green is ground, brown is Line, Blue is Neutral.

On the output red is +, black is -.

The meanwell PDF spec sheet has a drawing with a color legend.
 
I looked at the PDF. What I was confused by was my wire were colored differently and I wanted to make sure I attached the correct wires together.

Does my assessment above look correct?
 
I think your assessment is correct - though on the output wiring you had the colors swapped left/right:

Power Supply - Output Cord

Red - Brown (+)
Black - Blue (-)


I would just verify that on the LED panel, that the Brown wire is Positive (+) and that the Blue wire is Negative (-).


Otherwise, you should be good.
 
GiulianoM;697570 wrote: I think your assessment is correct - though on the output wiring you had the colors swapped left/right:

Otherwise, you should be good.

See my above statement about alcohol induced intellegence...

Hooked everything up today... I had to use crush connectors because I was out of heat shrink tubing... light fired right up... now to see how long it lasts... :D

Thanks for the help.
 
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