Leopard Wrasse
- Thread starter kirkwood
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Mysterybox, MvM, and myself are the three that first come to mind.
Check out mysterbox's build.
I bought mine from him, and I got really lucky with my choati.
Check out mysterbox's build.
I bought mine from him, and I got really lucky with my choati.
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They can be difficult to keep. They do not ship well, and often refuse to eat prepared foods. I haven't had mine for more than 3-4months. I forget the exact date.
Since I bought the female leopard from Ralph, I did not have the troubles that someone would have getting one right off the boat.
My chaoti, however, I did get right off the boat. At first, she would only eat pods. After a week, she started eating nutramar ova and cyclopeeze. It took about a month before she would take PE mysis.
Niether of my leopards eat flake or pellets
Edit: They like highly oxygenated, clean, cooler water. If your tank peaks at 83-84°, they will probably not acclimate well.
Since I bought the female leopard from Ralph, I did not have the troubles that someone would have getting one right off the boat.
My chaoti, however, I did get right off the boat. At first, she would only eat pods. After a week, she started eating nutramar ova and cyclopeeze. It took about a month before she would take PE mysis.
Niether of my leopards eat flake or pellets
Edit: They like highly oxygenated, clean, cooler water. If your tank peaks at 83-84°, they will probably not acclimate well.
anyone with a picture of a Copperbanded Butterfly must be skilled with difficult fish... well i do run a cooler system than that... 79degrees - i'm all LED so heat isn't much of an issue... being a picky eater is something that would dissuade me.. i will be ordering from einstein and i believe when he QT's he acclimates fish to ELOS pellets.. that is what i feed...
what is a chaoti?
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Chaoti wrasse:
http://www.bluezooaquatics.com/productdetail.asp?did=1&cid=290&pid=1001">http://www.bluezooaquatics.com/productdetail.asp?did=1&cid=290&pid=1001</a>
If you can find an animal that already eats what it feed, you are way ahead of the game!
My copperband was a challenge too! Live black worms was the key to my success with him. Now he eats like a PIG
http://www.bluezooaquatics.com/productdetail.asp?did=1&cid=290&pid=1001">http://www.bluezooaquatics.com/productdetail.asp?did=1&cid=290&pid=1001</a>
If you can find an animal that already eats what it feed, you are way ahead of the game!
My copperband was a challenge too! Live black worms was the key to my success with him. Now he eats like a PIG
The chaoti is nice... you seem to be into the expert fish keeping...
i am currently researching fish for my 120... basically looking for a couple flasher wrasse (McCosker's, Yellowfin), maybe Leopard or other reef safe wrasse (exquisite, tricolor, radiant, Tono), tangs like Regal, purple, Naso, Powder Blue, yellow, blue caribbean, and a clown pair (maybe picasso, snowflake, or percula).. i've been posting some fish mockups on my build thread...
I just need to narrow it down...
i am currently researching fish for my 120... basically looking for a couple flasher wrasse (McCosker's, Yellowfin), maybe Leopard or other reef safe wrasse (exquisite, tricolor, radiant, Tono), tangs like Regal, purple, Naso, Powder Blue, yellow, blue caribbean, and a clown pair (maybe picasso, snowflake, or percula).. i've been posting some fish mockups on my build thread...
I just need to narrow it down...
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a few flashers. Yellow Tang. Clown Pair. 3 or 4 blue chromes or black bars. and you'll be set with not a lot of worries to contend with
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get one from your LFS. I would ask pure reef to order you one.
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Speaking of Leopards:
Great Thread Here
But here is some great info on Leopard Wrasses by Kevin in that thread:
Like other Macropharyngodon spp. these fishes can and do suffer from improper handling along with a multitude of other stressors that can affect them down the road. This genus of Labroid fishes requires very delicate handling, as they are very skittish and highly sensitive to light upon arrival, and must be acclimated properly to temperature, specific gravity, and pH. They can go into shock very easily and are extremely sensitive to fluctuations in temperature, water chemistry and dissolved oxygen levels.
I have stated previously in numerous threads here on RC as well as in an article in the first ReefLife Magazine, this species surely is not for everyone. If one has the experience needed to properly acclimate and care for this species, as well as the proper environment to maintain them, and is willing and able to put the time in to feed these fishes relentlessly for several weeks until they are fully settled into their new home, they can do well long term.
Once acclimated properly, the best scenario is to maintain them in an old, very well established habitat that has a 2”-4” layer fine sand to meet their burrowing instincts so they feel comfortable. Keeping them stress free with no harassment from other tank mates or from their owner will allow them time to adjust to their new environment and settle in with the least amount of stress.
Assuming one obtains quality fishes that have been harvested, handled and conditioned properly; the next challenging step is feeding and proper diet. These fishes hunt for food almost constantly but will soon rely more and more on supplemented foods. Feeding these fishes throughout the day with the proper foods along with maintaining them in very stable, clean water conditions at temperatures of 76 to 77 degrees is a must, as they do not fare well at elevated water temperatures. Supplementation of small frozen mysis as well as live and frozen artemia is critical. This can be accomplished by enriching freshly thawed and drained frozen food in Amino Acid and other vitamin supplements. There are plenty of quality enrichment products available and their use at every feeding is extremely important to help boost the fishes’ immune system and allows them to regain their strength.
Last but not least, and in my opinion the most critical, is having the proper time to feed them throughout the day for the first few weeks or even for the first month. Offering very small quantities of food ten or more times per day will provide them with the nutrition needed to get them through the critical first few weeks of their transition into their new environment.
These are the steps that have worked well for me over the years, and all of them are critical, playing an important role in determining how this species will fare long term in the home aquaria.
Regards,
__________________
Kevin Kohen
Director of LiveAquaria
Drs. Foster and Smith
http://www.LiveAquaria.com">www.LiveAquaria.com</a>
[IMG]http://www.DrsFosterSmith.com">www.DrsFosterSmith.com</a>
Obviously have much more info on my build thread in signature.....
Treat with praziquantel
Sugar fine sand bed
Peaceful tank mates
Entice to eat with live Blackworms and fortified brine
PE Mysis with Selcon
2 to 3 times daily
Dynamics change as wrasses mature and or are added
Great Thread Here
But here is some great info on Leopard Wrasses by Kevin in that thread:
Like other Macropharyngodon spp. these fishes can and do suffer from improper handling along with a multitude of other stressors that can affect them down the road. This genus of Labroid fishes requires very delicate handling, as they are very skittish and highly sensitive to light upon arrival, and must be acclimated properly to temperature, specific gravity, and pH. They can go into shock very easily and are extremely sensitive to fluctuations in temperature, water chemistry and dissolved oxygen levels.
I have stated previously in numerous threads here on RC as well as in an article in the first ReefLife Magazine, this species surely is not for everyone. If one has the experience needed to properly acclimate and care for this species, as well as the proper environment to maintain them, and is willing and able to put the time in to feed these fishes relentlessly for several weeks until they are fully settled into their new home, they can do well long term.
Once acclimated properly, the best scenario is to maintain them in an old, very well established habitat that has a 2”-4” layer fine sand to meet their burrowing instincts so they feel comfortable. Keeping them stress free with no harassment from other tank mates or from their owner will allow them time to adjust to their new environment and settle in with the least amount of stress.
Assuming one obtains quality fishes that have been harvested, handled and conditioned properly; the next challenging step is feeding and proper diet. These fishes hunt for food almost constantly but will soon rely more and more on supplemented foods. Feeding these fishes throughout the day with the proper foods along with maintaining them in very stable, clean water conditions at temperatures of 76 to 77 degrees is a must, as they do not fare well at elevated water temperatures. Supplementation of small frozen mysis as well as live and frozen artemia is critical. This can be accomplished by enriching freshly thawed and drained frozen food in Amino Acid and other vitamin supplements. There are plenty of quality enrichment products available and their use at every feeding is extremely important to help boost the fishes’ immune system and allows them to regain their strength.
Last but not least, and in my opinion the most critical, is having the proper time to feed them throughout the day for the first few weeks or even for the first month. Offering very small quantities of food ten or more times per day will provide them with the nutrition needed to get them through the critical first few weeks of their transition into their new environment.
These are the steps that have worked well for me over the years, and all of them are critical, playing an important role in determining how this species will fare long term in the home aquaria.
Regards,
__________________
Kevin Kohen
Director of LiveAquaria
Drs. Foster and Smith
http://www.LiveAquaria.com">www.LiveAquaria.com</a>
[IMG]http://www.DrsFosterSmith.com">www.DrsFosterSmith.com</a>
Obviously have much more info on my build thread in signature.....
Treat with praziquantel
Sugar fine sand bed
Peaceful tank mates
Entice to eat with live Blackworms and fortified brine
PE Mysis with Selcon
2 to 3 times daily
Dynamics change as wrasses mature and or are added
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I love my whip fin fairy wrasse kirkwood. I got him from Rit at Atlanta aquarium. He's Beautiful and a very curious fish!!!
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