Lighting a 125g SW Tank

vaporhead1976

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I have read posts and sites regarding lighting a tank for SPS/LPS tanks. My question is do I need one type of lighting or do I need a variation. I have seen the discussions debating MH, T5 and the different flourescents. Which is ideal for coral and for a 72" tank? What is best regarding one 72" light or multi differnt length lighting systems? Also, has anyone got opinions/fact on the new Kessil Lighting A150W setup? Thanks!
 
<span style="font-family: Arial"><span style="font-size: 14px">Lighting Requirements</span></span><p style="text-align:left"><span style="font-family: Arial"><span style="font-size: 12px">What kind of light cycle is recommended?</span></span>
<ul>
<li><p style="text-align:left"><span style="font-family: Arial"><span style="font-size: 12px">In any aquarium, the light cycle, or amount of time the lights are on per day, can have a dramatic effect on the growth of nuisance algae. </span></span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: Arial"><span style="font-size: 12px">If you have a lighting system with both daylight (white bulbs) and actinic (blue bulbs) lights, it is best to have the actinic blue lights come on 1 hour to 1.5 hours before the daylight lights and stay on 1 hour to 1.5 hours after the daylight bulbs turn off. This can be easily accomplished with the use of two timers. </span></span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: Arial"><span style="font-size: 12px">We recommend a white daylight cycle of 8-9 hours with the actinic blue lights coming on before and remaining on after the daylights. </span></span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: Arial"><span style="font-size: 12px">If you have rapid growth of nuisance algae, try cutting you light cycle back by 15-30 minutes. </span></span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: Arial"><span style="font-size: 12px">Sometimes it only takes a small decrease in the light cycle to make a big difference. </span></span></li>
</ul><span style="font-family: Arial"><span style="font-size: 12px">What kind of lighting is required for a fish-only aquarium?</span></span>
<ul>
<li><span style="font-family: Arial"><span style="font-size: 12px">Fish-only aquariums with live rock do not require bright lighting. </span></span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: Arial"><span style="font-size: 12px">Adding bright lights to a fish only aquarium will cause the growth of excess nuisance algae, resulting in more cleaning for you. </span></span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: Arial"><span style="font-size: 12px">Provide 1-2 watts of light per gallon. </span></span></li>
</ul><span style="font-family: Arial"><span style="font-size: 12px">What kind of lighting is required for a reef aquarium?</span></span>
<ul>
<li><span style="font-family: Arial"><span style="font-size: 12px">Proper lighting is an absolute necessity for any reef aquarium. </span></span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: Arial"><span style="font-size: 12px">Most soft corals can do well under VHO fluorescent or Power Compact (PC) fluorescent lighting. </span></span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: Arial"><span style="font-size: 12px">Provide approximately 3-5 watts of light per gallon. Example: A 60-gallon aquarium with soft corals should have from 180 to 300 watts of light no matter how much live rock you have in the aquarium. </span></span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: Arial"><span style="font-size: 12px">Aquariums with soft and large-polyped stony corals should have approximately 4-6 watts of light per gallon. </span></span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: Arial"><span style="font-size: 12px">For SPS (small-polyped stony) coral reefs we recommend 7-10 watts of light per gallon. </span></span></li>
</ul><span style="font-family: Arial"><span style="font-size: 12px">What are metal halide lights?</span></span>
<ul>
<li><span style="font-family: Arial"><span style="font-size: 12px">Metal halide lights are the best choice for reef aquariums with stony corals of any type. </span></span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: Arial"><span style="font-size: 12px">They also create a soothing shimmer all over the aquarium. </span></span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: Arial"><span style="font-size: 12px">The only downfall of metal halides is that they produce much more heat than fluorescent bulbs and therefore require a taller canopy, better ventilation, and sometimes a chiller to prevent them from overheating your aquarium. </span></span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: Arial"><span style="font-size: 12px">Metal halides should be mounted in a 12 to 15 inch high canopy, or at least 6 inches from the top of the aquarium. </span></span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: Arial"><span style="font-size: 12px">The results they will help you achieve in reef keeping are tremendous. </span></span></li>
</ul>
 
Mr Difficult: We are looking at doing SPS.

BuddyRo: Thanks for the info! Where do LEDs play into the equation? Are they sufficient enough to be the only source of lighting?
 
I have an SPS tank using only LEDs. It was expensive initially, but overall I am very pleased with the switch from halide to LED. Results were undeniably better (growth, color, heat, electric bill) than halides. The tank is 30" deep, but some of the most colorfully colonies are at the bottom.
 
What LED system are you using and what would be the expected costs. I posted initially that Kessil had a new lighting system and was really looking into those due to the costs. They are pendant like lights and come in 3 different color variations 10k, 15k and 20k. Cost per light is $265 and I was figuring on 3-5 lights? Any suggestions or words of wisdom?
 
I am using the EcoRay 112D. It's a really basic unit. You can't dim the lights, its pretty much on or off. The whites(5,500k-6,500k) and blues(450nm-470nm) are on different cords, so you can turn them on at different times. When the two spectrums blend, it produces a 14,000k appearance. The optics are either 40 or 45 degrees, which creates a very intense tight beam down, but does not give it much span. This works for my tank because it is an odd size: 20x20x30", and the unit is 19.5x11.3" I don't know much about the Kessil brand, so no words of wisdom there. AquaIlluminations makes a very nice(expensive) unit called the Sol. StarkLED makes a unit that is dimable and has 60 degree optics (to give a bitter span.) It also depends if you want 1watt LEDs or 3watt LEDs.
 
Don't forget the option to DIY. Many members here have gone the DIY route and saved a ton of $.
 
Awesome! I will research the various brands you mentioned which will be a good starting point. Thanks once again...can't tell you how much this helps!
 
RedStang;677173 wrote: Don't forget the option to DIY. Many members here have gone the DIY route and saved a ton of $.

Very true! I wanted to build my own, but with everything I have going on, I didn't have time, plus I got a pretty good deal. If I decide to turn my 210 into a reef tank, I'd probably build my own LED unit.
 
...i don't have experiance with LED's except my moonlights,but always seen/heard good things about them. Maybe one day soon i'll be able to post a review on a unit ($$$)
I'm ok w/ 2x250w radiums and LED moonlights, Let us know if you catch a deal on some.
 
PC lights = Cheap can't grow a lot only Mushrooms ,Zoas etc, T5 a lot of us use them great bulb can grow a lot still not everything both can support both types of coral watch where you place in tank etc. I like MH but bulbs and power cost more to run grow whatever. LEDS no experience here people that have them love them less power cost and hear good par readings ,but start up cost $$$$$ unless DIY project may save $$$$$. All this info is just how I see things take things for whats its worth also research yourself as well.
 
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