Lighting guru needed!

jeep9783

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My light setup 4x48 t5 ho overdriven with 660, 3x10k, 1x12k
2x 36in on sunpaq ballast actinic
I know that you use a par meter for halides etc but I have herd that you use a lux meter for t5's to measure lumens...What is the ideal lumens wanted for sps at top say acros and then like medium level for say montis and bottom for acans

I haven't put any sps in the tank yet I was just testing with a hammer coral and a large pagoda...both like the bottom and this is the only measuring that i have done as when i move both to the top they tend to not extend as much and not have as much color...

I just want to make sure lighting is ok before introducing and sps to the system...Also would like to know what is ideal lummens for clams...All that will be in the tank is clams sps and acans...and of course my wrasses...I have a standard 75rr

Thanks Chris
 
Not trying to be mean but you might have your facts a little wrong. PAR meter measures the amount of Photosynthetically Active Radiation or in short the amount of light that can be used for photosynthesis. Lumens is a measure of the power of a light. So all lights weather it be metal halide, PC's, T-5 or what they should all be measured with a PAR meter.
 
As has already been mentioned, a PAR meter would give you better info for a reef tank. 4 overdriven T5s should give you enough PAR to be able to keep most thing as long as you are using individual reflectors. You'll want to aquascape in such a way that you have some "shady" areas for the acans. A disadvantage of the T5s is that you have the same intensity the entire length of the bulb so find spots for lower light species can be a challenge.
 
I was considering removeing the center brace and replacing it with clear acrylic...Should I leave the black center brace in for some shadded areas? Sorry didn't know that about the par meter...I was told that t5s don't offer as much par but offer more lummens and that is why you meausure with a lux meter for t5 and par meter for halides...maybe i just miss understood
 
well i beleave the bulbs are nova's and i use individual slr reflectors...I really can't remember the bulbs but i think that is right...comes in a pinkish colored box...i ordered them from drfosterandsmiths...i don't have a fan on them as the heat they produce i am using to keep the water at 77 thus not having to run the chiller at all and the heaters only minimal for the time being during the winter...well i was considering buying a lux meter but i am assuming now that i should just get a par meter?
 
No i didn't mean the fan to heat the tank i ment that i use the bulbs heat produced to aid in heating the tank...since i am already producing heat why not use it...I guess i will put the fan back on to get rid of the hot spots in the bulbs...new to the t5 stuff
 
The lighting setup should be ok for SPS, but you will probably want to change your lamps to high quality ones soon. The current and coralife lamps are not really great for overdriving, and will not optimize your setup.

I would look into Aquascience and ATI lamps.

Also, I dont know if you like the color, but it sounds very yellow/pink, so if you do order new lamps, I would consider something like:
2 very blue lights (blue +, 22k, etc)
1 red/purple/daylight light (10k, 75/25, procolor)
1 whiteish light (aquablue, etc)
 
The lighting setup should be ok for SPS, but you will probably want to change your lamps to high quality ones soon. The current and coralife lamps are not really great for overdriving, and will not optimize your setup.

I would look into Aquascience and ATI lamps.
 
well i got the heater and chiller on my ranco controller set to 77 + - 2 deg...the chiller kicks on at 78 and the heater kicks on at 76...so it stays almost always 77...thanks for all the info greatly appreciated....if we still had the point system i would give +1 to all

and the bulbs are all brand new wish i would have known that brand was crap but will deff keep that in mind when i change out the bulbs
 
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