Lighting Your Reef Tank

[Onefallleaf]

Hello everyone, wanted to start a discussion here since I've been looking into lots of different lighting types and wanted to see everyone's takes on what works best. Answer the poll, have a discussion, post some pics!

As for me, I lean towards traditional t5 lighting. I've always seen the best growth and coloration with this setup, but I love new technology. Thus, I've also gotten into LEDs lately. For my new tank build I'm thinking of going with a hybrid system with T5s and LEDs this is mostly for the color and pop LEDs give and also for the general coverage and less shading that T5s are known for. I'm also a stick head, so I need tons of light for all my SPS. What's your take on lighting?

 

[ichthyoid]

I’ve had all three major types of lighting- led, fluorescent & halide. They were all successful, some within limits.

Hybrid led/T5 systems have a strong following. That appears to be due to many qualities: the versatility, ‘pop’, uniformity, aesthetics, etc. Please post pics of the your build!

I will be using AI Prime HD LED’s on my next build, due to: convenience, performance & look (both the corals & clean design).


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[Adam]

As you've seen Wei, I'm using SB reef black boxes and T5. For my next system I'm going to build my own led array and still include the T5's.

 

[jcook54]

I had all T5's and a few months ago bought my dream lights, Radions. I think I had them for a week or two before I started trying to figure out how to add T5. Lots of folks use a lot of different brands and specs but everyone I know that has the kind of tank I want uses either s store bought hybrids fixture or a DIY hybrid fixture. I hope to join those ranks when my bank account recovers from the Radions!

 

[liverock27]

I’m running the Aquatic Life T5/LED Hybrid on my new setup using my Radion XR30. My tank is still cycling so no news on how well they work, but I really like the color and shimmer.
I just rented a Par meter from BRS so I should know how well they light up my tank by the end of the week.

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[jcook54]

Regarding PAR meters, @dball711 has some terrific posts about the spectrum of the light vs the intensity (PAR) of the light. PAR is useful because, in the past, the difficulty was always having "enough" light. Now we've got lights that can bleach a tank in a hour and a lot of folks really tweak the spectrum.

When testing PAR, I would encourage you to test your Radions at different intensity outputs (50%, 55%, etc.) AND do a few tests using some of the different programs they have. The 'CoralLab' presets are something I've been looking into for my tank and I totally forgot to get PAR readings using those programs.

 

[Mom2Many]

I used T-5's on my salt tank years ago and really loved them. When starting a tank up four years ago, I decided to try LED's. I like them very much. The ability to ramp them up or down and dial in the amount of light I want from blues and whites has been nice. My tank is shallow and I don't have any high light demanding corals or clams so Current Orbit Marine LED's worked for my situation.

 

[liverock27]

Regarding PAR meters, @dball711 has some terrific posts about the spectrum of the light vs the intensity (PAR) of the light. PAR is useful because, in the past, the difficulty was always having "enough" light. Now we've got lights that can bleach a tank in a hour and a lot of folks really tweak the spectrum.

When testing PAR, I would encourage you to test your Radions at different intensity outputs (50%, 55%, etc.) AND do a few tests using some of the different programs they have. The 'CoralLab' presets are something I've been looking into for my tank and I totally forgot to get PAR readings using those programs.

Thank you for the above info and suggestions. I am running the CoralLab preset w/ATI Blue Plus bulbs so I will test that at different intensity levels. I also plan on trying WWC’s adjusted CoralLab program at the same intensities.


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[bhodges82]

I think I overdid it.....too much light for a 120???


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[Cook]

I went with a 48" Aquatic life T5 Hybrid fixture also but paired with a single Kessil AP700. Still putting it together. I had metal halide's years ago and wanted the shimmer of the Kessil's without having to worry about shading.

 

[snowmansnow]

As you know light is only one variable that steers success.
For me having a technologically advanced light is secondary to simplicity and “foolproofness” (if there is such a thing).

The most success I’ve had over the last 15 years has been with a 7 lamp t5 fixture over a 120.
That said, I didn’t have the “blue planet neon look” everyone seems to like these days for some reason.

This fixture ran 2x GE6500k , 4 blue plus, and 1 KZ coral light. I grew sps so fast I had packs to sell every weekend.

Now, all this said I currently have an ATI 8 lamp over a 16” deep tank w a 4x2 footprint with added led bars from reefbreeders for blue. However I’m feeling strong pull to go to MH for some reason. Just a gut thing that I want to try something else I suppose.


As far as led goes, I’ve had gen3 radions over the same tank. Far too much tinkering for me. Honestly, the best coloration I got out of my corals was with cheap ocean revive fixtures. They don’t look near as cool, but hey they worked. Are they better than radions at 1/4 price? I guess that up to how you define better.

Oh yea, I also did power compact back in the day ha. Probably my coolest looking tank was actually with 250w 14k Pheonix MH and retrofitted true actinic fluorescent tubes (the big ones ...T12??)

Once I had a tank that got morning sunlight for a long time and MAN did my RBTA LOVE it.

Anyway, hope none of this is confusing.
B


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[ichthyoid]

Something important to understand about light is, that the energy delivered is dependent on wavelength/color.
So, not all parts of the spectrum deliver the same energy to a coral, for the same quantity of light (or, equal number of photons in physics terms)
As we move from deep red toward deep purple, the energy per photon increases (for you math geeks, it is a hyperbolic function)
So much so, that deep purple @ 400 nanometers has almost 50% more energy than deep red @ 700 nanometers.
This is a BIG deal to corals & the zooxanthellae (symbiotic algae) they contain in their tissues!
Absorbed light energy causes the release of peroxidase enzymes, in order to limit the toxic byproduct of photosynthesis (peroxides)
Too much sunlight/energy can overwhelm the organism with peroxides and may cause bleaching and/or spontaneous expulsion of the zooxanthellae.
Lesson here are:
-initially limit the amount of light, and gradually increase while monitoring the coral's response
-be especially careful to limit short wavelengths of the spectrum, especially purple, and/or reduce other colors in order to compensate for overall energy delivered.
These are why a PAR meter has become a great utility device, especially with the advent of LED's.
-Just my $0.02

 

[ichthyoid]

It is also worth mentioning that the absorption spectrum of light by photosynthetic pigments, as well as the transmission of light by seawater, further complicate the discussion above.

 

[Onefallleaf]

As you've seen Wei, I'm using SB reef black boxes and T5. For my next system I'm going to build my own led array and still include the T5's.

Hey Adam, ya your light is definetly awesome. I think I remember seeing some Kessils in there too? You sorta have the best of all worlds with what you have.

I had all T5's and a few months ago bought my dream lights, Radions. I think I had them for a week or two before I started trying to figure out how to add T5. Lots of folks use a lot of different brands and specs but everyone I know that has the kind of tank I want uses either s store bought hybrids fixture or a DIY hybrid fixture. I hope to join those ranks when my bank account recovers from the Radions!

Yes! Radions are pricey little buggars aren't they? I really like the light especially for tanks deeper than 18". I personally think they get the best light diffusion at that height. Unfortunately they cost so much or I'd light my whole tank with them. Really cant beat the price/coverage of T5s lol.

Thank you for the above info and suggestions. I am running the CoralLab preset w/ATI Blue Plus bulbs so I will test that at different intensity levels. I also plan on trying WWC’s adjusted CoralLab program at the same intensities.

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Ya definetly try out WWC's adjusted coral labs. I believe they run a adjusted version of the AB+. I have my own custom version of it that I run and my SPS love it. What types of corals are you planning on having?

I think I overdid it.....too much light for a 120???

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No never! You cant ever have too much lol.

I went with a 48" Aquatic life T5 Hybrid fixture also but paired with a single Kessil AP700. Still putting it together. I had metal halide's years ago and wanted the shimmer of the Kessil's without having to worry about shading.

Yes I feel like the combos are the way to go right now atleast until the price of LEDs come down to where it is affordable to light your entire aquarium without having to take out a mortgage.

 

[Onefallleaf]

As you know light is only one variable that steers success.
For me having a technologically advanced light is secondary to simplicity and “foolproofness” (if there is such a thing).

The most success I’ve had over the last 15 years has been with a 7 lamp t5 fixture over a 120.
That said, I didn’t have the “blue planet neon look” everyone seems to like these days for some reason.

This fixture ran 2x GE6500k , 4 blue plus, and 1 KZ coral light. I grew sps so fast I had packs to sell every weekend.

Now, all this said I currently have an ATI 8 lamp over a 16” deep tank w a 4x2 footprint with added led bars from reefbreeders for blue. However I’m feeling strong pull to go to MH for some reason. Just a gut thing that I want to try something else I suppose.


As far as led goes, I’ve had gen3 radions over the same tank. Far too much tinkering for me. Honestly, the best coloration I got out of my corals was with cheap ocean revive fixtures. They don’t look near as cool, but hey they worked. Are they better than radions at 1/4 price? I guess that up to how you define better.

Oh yea, I also did power compact back in the day ha. Probably my coolest looking tank was actually with 250w 14k Pheonix MH and retrofitted true actinic fluorescent tubes (the big ones ...T12??)

Once I had a tank that got morning sunlight for a long time and MAN did my RBTA LOVE it.

Anyway, hope none of this is confusing.
B


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Definetly, lighting is only one part of the whole equation and it is getting easier and easier to successfully light a reef tank. I believe it is one of the most exciting and well remembered parts of reef keeping because of the customization and level of visual impact that it gives.
Sounds like you've tried a bit of everything haven't you? Oh dang, power compacts I don't have a fond memory of those. Sure glad they are almost gone from the industry now.
I see a ton of people going back to MH recently. I think its part of the tried and true method, but it also gives a shimmer and coverage thats so hard to beat.
If you are still up for giving LEDs a try maybe try out the Illumagic setup. From what ive heard, they are a true plug and play system. Apparently most of their LED arrays are setup in the PUR (photosynthetic usable range) so everything can be set to 100% and look good and be usable.

 

[Adam]

There are more and more pcb's hitting ebay & Alibaba that are cloning Radions. Some will allow you to customize the led layout too. I'm debating just ordering blank pcb's and reflowing the diodes myself. I don't need a crap ton of channels, I think 4 would be plenty.

You can build them for 1/2 to 2/3 the price of Radions.

 

[Onefallleaf]

@ichthyoid @jcook54
Thanks for mentioning the importance of spectrum and not just PAR. I feel as more advanced reefers we try to give the idea of PAR being a universal fix all for people with lighting issues or coral discoloration, but that isn't the only case especially if you have the wrong adjustments on your lights. More advanced reefers will know that the blue spectrum is very important for coral growth and health but not all hobbyists will know that and especially with the customability of these new LED fixtures PAR might not be a fix all for your system. Especially if you have the wrong settings or combination of bulbs. PUR is a much more ideal way of thinking. Now thats not to say the whole spectrum isnt important, but some is more important than others. Seneye has a good little article on it if you want to read up. Very simple and they also have links if you want more info on lighting for your corals.
http://answers.seneye.com/index.php?title=en/Aquarium_help/What_is_PAR_&_PUR_?

For all you other science nerds, here are some more advanced articles on lighting and the affects on reef tanks.
https://www.advancedaquarist.com/2012/10/aafeature
https://www.advancedaquarist.com/2003/8/aafeature
https://www.advancedaquarist.com/2009/5/aafeature
https://www.advancedaquarist.com/2013/12/lighting

Now lets get back to our regularly scheduled programming.

 

[Onefallleaf]

There are more and more pcb's hitting ebay & Alibaba that are cloning Radions. Some will allow you to customize the led layout too. I'm debating just ordering blank pcb's and reflowing the diodes myself. I don't need a crap ton of channels, I think 4 would be plenty.

You can build them for 1/2 to 2/3 the price of Radions.

You know, I've always wanted to try this out for myself but its just so hard to when they keep coming out with lights that are so much more user friendly and less work. I'm way too lazy lol. I'm thinking of setting up 1/2 of a frag tank to try something like this soon though. Give me a shout if you ever want or need a hand with building it though. Definetly interested.

 

[Adam]

Well, its gotten a lot easier now. There's solderless pcb's with push pin connections. Wireless boards for control with apps. 0-10v control too for Apex.

To light an 8x3 footprint I'm going to need 5 to 6 Radion xr30 equivalent plus T5. Doing it for half the cost and getting more usable LEDs seems good to me and I've always liked to tinker.

I'm in the process of rebuilding the ATS lights now.

 

[ichthyoid]

Above, I should have checked my mental math, as the purple light is actually ~67% higher in energy than the red.
I've mentioned this as a precaution to fellow refers that may be tempted to just tweak their LED spectrums without realizing the effect that (energy change) may have on their corals.

We can get lulled into thinking of the reef as a somewhat stable environment from a lighting perspective, with the obvious changes being day to night.
However, particulates cause light scattering and planktonic blooms have associated pigments of their own.
Both of these phenomena modify the light transmission of seawater, and hence the spectrum available to corals.
These variations and others happen due to many reasons, such as- storms, land runoff, seasonal variation of temperature/salinity/plankton/clouds etc.
Dana Riddle has done quality work investigating the corals, seawater, other components, light, optical mechanisms and their interrelated variables.
The last reference you posted is, I think, superb! Here: https://www.advancedaquarist.com/2013/12/lighting